Diana and Jackie

Indicator beacon? (for use whilst afloat)

Water level indicator

CAV is now Prestolite.(ok so some people knew this)

Useful training manuals and information on their starters/alternators etc can be found at:

http://www.prestolite.co.uk/pgs_training/training_0.php

Many vehicles including the Rolls Royce B series have CAV starters fitted to them.

D&J

It's PEMBREY not pembray

 

Clean and tidy

Are you sure about the weight of the turret and base?

From the unladen weights given in the user handbook of the liaison and reconnaissance vehicle there is a difference of no more than 5 cwt. The major difference being the provision of a turret and baseplate in the recce vehicle.

If the recce or turreted version of the vehicle is driven sensibly on a road or metalled surface, bearing in mind the turreted version does have a tendency to be top heavy, particularly around corners and bends then it is quite safe.

I have never had a problem. Off road yes the steering wheel can be whipped out of your hands if a wheel hits an obstacle.

D & J

I loved driving the Mk1, we had a couple in the Sqn as liaison vehicles. The Ferret was never meant to have a turret, it was an afterthought, which led to many being killed when their Ferrets turned over. The turret weighs in at around one ton, (with its base), and it was so easy, at speed, to have the steering wheel whipped out of your hands, if one front wheel hit a patch of soft. The Ferret would then spin, and roll over, trapping the commander between turret and tera-firma. Not nice.

Quite correct Richard:

http://vorwahlgetriebe.de/english/pages/home.php AND http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Walter_Gordon_Wilson

D&J

Actually, the Wilson pre-selector gearbox was designed by a man called Wilson. He formed a company called Improved Gears, to produce them and they were used in a variety of cars prewar, some for racing like the ERA. The company changed its name to Self-Changing Gears Ltd at some point. David Brown did make tank gearboxes, and I think the CVR(T) box is their manufacure, but I am pretty certain they had no input on the Ferret's Wilson box.

http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/lucas_course.html

D&J

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/British-Army-Military-Tank-Helmet-Full-Complete-Set-RARE-With-Communications-/160895708592?pt=UK_Collectables_Militaria_LE&hash=item257621adb0

Brand new if you can get them sent to the USA

D&J

Thought about using these with my Ferret - are these helmets compatible with the Clansman intercom sets ? Seems like a decent price.

http://www.ima-usa.com/review/product/list/id/118/category/103/

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?26009-Daimler-Ferret-Horn-%28Lucas-New-Alto%29-adjustment&highlight=aLTO

D&J

.The Lucas Horn on my TRIUMPH IS DEAD ...Any addresses or names for a rebuild or self fix ideas...

 

Jenkinov

Quote from an online source :

Correct size screw drivers and spanners only ,try leaving the carb to soak in paraffin for a week .I quite often warm the carb up by pouring hot water over it ,this is not always the answer but it does work for me .

D&J

Apologies if it's a silly question, but is trying to get the broken jet out an option?

 

I'm not familiar with these carbs so don't know how difficult it would be, or even if it's possible!

Maybe useful !

D&J

Surprised at this since its freely avalailable here in the UK.

As a last resort have you tried Tim Vibert who is in Aus?

D&J

I have tried to get some EP 90 oil for my Ferret and have been to a few car places here in Australia. I have seen 85/90 EP oil but it is specification GL5 but I have gained impression from searching web I should really obtain a GL4 specification oil as GL5 specification can cause problems to yellow metal (is there any yellow metal in the transfer box and bevel Boxes). Can I use GL5 specification oil? The only GL4 specification oil I have seen is 80 and I am not sure whether it is EP.

 

Help and advice please.

Totally correct - not only is the person likely to be left without insurance - and possibly face a bill of many thousands but they will end up on a register of fraudsters and getting any insurance at all will become difficult.

All material facts must be disclosed - period ! (see earlier posts)

D&J

Not a military vehicle but declared to be so and then found out to be a civvy vehicle after an accident said person will be uninsured and could potentially have so much to loose in monetary value, visits from debt collectors, bankruptcy and possibly marriage breakdown so on so forth. I don't think idiots would quite encapsulate how I think off them

We've renewed our cover for insurance and breakdown with Adrian Flux.

I queried the issue of non renewal of breakdown and in respect of this particular thread.

You seem to have been misinformed, breakdown cover is still available with a policy from Adrian Flux, nothing has changed

D&J

Hi all , just been speaking to Flux insurance and they told me that the breakdown cover option (that only cost £30) has been done away with .

 

Where does everyone else get cover from ?

 

With a humber pig and a green goddess it was worth it for £30 each ,

 

Jamie

Yes something to be aware of when buying countersunk cap screws, the thread size maybe correct but the head size is too big (or small).

Did consider grinding down the head but maybe it would weaken the head's ability to stand the torque of the allen key, so it's going to be counter boring the existing hole.

Why the heads are different is a mystery, one supplier suggested something to do with post and pre1960.

D&J

Dear D + J,

 

I ran into that problem of the heads of the socket head cap screws when using civvy replacements inside my Ferret gearbox, spun them up in a lathe and turned them down.

 

R

Hi,

For what it's worth these are our experiences with studs.

A local company believed they could stud weld studs on the armour using a capacitor discharge (CD) stud welder. The studs were mild steel copper plated and the result we very variable. Some would pop off easily, other were a strong weld. Clearly we couldn't rely on this.

Its probably likely that a drawn arc (DA) stud welder would do the job and be the right equipment to guarantee a strong weld, that is if you can find one or a company that uses one.

In the end the same company used a TIG welder with no filler rod to weld the studs on, and we can confirm they are 100% sound. In fact there was no mushroom at the base of the stud as the armour and stud metal flowed together. The funny thing is that only one guy would do the TIG welding, the others were somewhat scared to touch it!

Others on this forum recommend using stainless steel - probably high tensile, that is if you can find some HT studding or else cut down some high tensile stainless bolts.

Mild steel is working well for us.

D&J

Hi All,

 

I'm pushing on with the restoration of my Saracen and I've got to the side escape hatches today (see photos). As anticipated when I took the mudguard off several of the studs sheared. On closer inspection, I can't tell if the studs are screwed into the armour plate or welded on the top. Has anyone had any experience of replacing these studs (look like 3/8 UNF)?

 

Cheers

Thanks yet again Richard,

This very problem looks like the result of using Silicon!

We're well stocked up on Hylomar - ebay being the cheapest.

Even have new cap screws (which we'll get plated locally) from Severn Valleys Fasteners, though the Cap holes will have to be counterbored as the Cap screws, although 5/16 UNF need a 1/4" hex key rather than 3/16". and therefore are around 1mm diameter larger in the head.

D&J

Hi Diane and Jackie,

 

Go for it ! Remove all cap screws from face of cap and remove cap, no other parts effected, the ring gear is retained by some more cap screws, so you will not disturb that joint. Don't use silicone, Hylomar is what we always used when they were in service.

regards, Richard

Hi All,

Please can someone/anyone confirm whether or not a Ferret hub cap can be removed and then the outer planet gear without removing all the bits that makeup the inner gearing.

The joint between the outer planetary gear and hub cap is leaking oil, We'd like to just renew the joint without disturbing the second joint, but knowing how things like this go, the second joint is likely to need renewing too.

D&J

Hi,

Yes took it out this weekend and it runs better than ever. Interested to hear how anyone else gets on with ethomix

D&J

In the RR B series we don't actually need a lead replacement additive. I'm wondering about giving the ethomix ago though, expecially due to the limited mileage I'm doing, and the amount of time petrol will be in the tank.

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/protect-your-vehicle-against-ethanol

 

Diana and Jackie, is it still running well?

 

Cheers

 

MT

We started to read up on Ethanol if fuel and decided to do something about it.

So we added Ethomix to the fuel tank of our Ferret and started it up a few hours later - amazing difference! idles and runs like a different machine.

The tickover is smoother a lot more consistent!

D&J

Hi,

The procedure for removing the springs is detailed in the handbook, jack up each wheel in turn (on its lower wishbone, outer end) this will allow you to remove the rubber buffers, then with them removed release the tension on the wishbone. The upper spring mount can now be removed as the tension will be off the suspension spring (at least it should be if the pivots aren't seized)

To remove the hub remove the bolts (6 off) from the joint between the inner and outer tracta housing, then remove the 8 Allen bolts that hold the upper pivot of the Hub ENSURING that the hub is WELL Supported - a sling and engine hoist on the outer of the hub will do the job, this is important as although the hub is not likely to drop hinging on its lower pivot there is nothing stopping it except friction! You have been warned! and it is VERY heavy!

Now you have the problem of extracting the lower pivot. don't forget every hub and bevel box will need to be emptied of oil. If the suspension wishbones are free (which can be as problem) then they can be lifted up enough to give you clearance to get the vehicle in the building.

Unfortunately it is likely that the pivot points will either be seized or partly seized so a good heating with an acetylene torch is likely.

You are facing a lot of work, personally I'd reconsider getting it on its side with the wheels off and moving it on skids or rollers sideways into your building as others have suggested. alternatively why not just remove the hubs without getting involved with the suspension and upper spring mount if this will give you the clearance you want.

D&J

Thanks for that, it is a Canadian Mark one, no turret. We thought about bringing it in sideways, but can"t do it. We have to bring it in upright. Our only option is to remove the suspension units and reinstall. This is a permanent display. Are the springs under tension when the suspension is fully relaxed ?

Hi,

That is a co-axial type C Connector- takes the output from your VRC321 via the Turf (The front co-ax connector) through this plug and the vehicle chassis and into a further co-ax into a dipole centre.

They are quite rare - took us ages to get one.

For using the vehicle on the move use a vertical whip (3m to 4M) into a rubber whip base and not this socket. The whip slots into the base.

If the whip is 3m then Ok to have it vertical, if 3m then use a slant adaptor so the whip is at an angle.

Looks as though someone has chopped the cable and left the connector up inside the fitting, undo the nut at the top of the fitting and the connector will come out.

D&J

Help! could anybody tell what aerial i need to fit this base on my Fv432, it had another one next to it at the front right hand side of the vehicle that looks as though it hasent been used for a while.It was upgraded for Clansman from Larkspur in 1983.

Regards

Arnie

Go to http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/intercoms_&_radios.htm and it will give you the basic setup.

You'll need a Turf (Tuner) connected to the VRC321 with coax, and out of the back of the Turf a short length of stranded wire insulated with bowl insulators into the base of the antenna base connector, alternatively the Turf can be mounted remotely and coax from the "C" connector on the front of the turf using coax to a dipole centre.

A Surf (selector unit radio frequency) is only needed in a multi radio setup.

From the VRC321 into the harness is a multiple connector & cable into the IB3 this will then pass audio to and from the VRC321 and well as changing it from receive to transmit using the pressel switch going to a headset.

The Website also gives details of other boxes which can be connected into the system using the wiring harness.

Hope this helps!

D&J

Hi All

 

I am currently installing a Clansman VRC321 into my FV432.

 

I have purchased a copy of 'BASIC RADIO, THREE SET, B HARNESS IN TRACKED VEHICLE APC FV432 - TECHNICAL HANDBOOK - INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

SUBJECT: INSTALLATION OF UK/VRC 353, UK/VRC 321 AND C42 NO 3 WITH BID 150'

 

According to the introduction on the front page of the manual 'the items comprising the installation are listed in tables 1 - 6 and are supplied in CES Nos 44750, 43754, 44681, 43428, 42921 (2N), 42992, 42921 (2F), 43906, 44687, 44696, 44750'

 

However, these tables do not appear in the manual I have purchased. Does this mean that the tables and all the installation requirements are listed in the further manuals so I have to purchase a complete set? Or does anyone know where I can find all the installation requirements in one document?

 

Many thanks for you help

 

Arnie

You'll probably need an angle grinder with a grinding disc and not a cutting disc as its armour - bit tougher than mild steel :cool2:

D & J

Fairly close, would you work on the hatch bottom locating clips or on the hull plates. What would you use , a file?

Its our experience that some post offices are staffed by numbskulls, such as in ours when they refused to re-licence our Ferret, so we simply complained after I went to the local DVLA office and almost immediately got a new Historic vehicle tax disc.

We later got an apology from Royal Mail, which will be about the second or third for that post offices uselessness.

It maybe useful to note that if you are refused a new tax disc at a Post office because they fail to recognize the vehicles exemption ask they confirm this with the DVLA by phoning then, which they should do if in any doubt, but they may not know this either or be too lazy or obstinate too.

Diana & Jackie