Diana and Jackie

Hi All,

A rescaled pictorial of all the parts in the Solex 40 NNIP Carb.

Some of the parts identified may not come in an overhaul kit, especially the seals. It depends on who supplies the kit.

If replacing diaphragms through age replace all - especially the economy device diaphragm, since as its name says this controls the amount fuel used and the economy of the engine.

Also note on some carburrettors the cold start device may not be as shown, instead in item 19 there maybe just two holes. Item 19 needs to be mounted with the holes horizontal if that is the case.

Diana & Jackie

Hi,

The two batteries are wired in series to give 24 volts. So its to be expected that one battery will behave in the same manner as the other.

My guess is a short circuit to chassis on the link cable between the batteries, OR an faulty battery (internal short).

We completely renewed the battery cables on our Ferret with welding cable from TCL and new snap on connectors with insulated tops. Our starting problems immediately dissapeared, and we felt a lot safer.

The thought of an exploding battery near a fuel tank is a nightmare scenerio.

Please let us all know what the fault was.

D & J

all done at post office the problem as it turned out was i had sorned ferret using tax reminder was told if u do that u have to go to post office and they tax it using barcode on v5 and they dont keep v112g she didnt even look at it!:cool2: safariswing was correct

If The local Post Office refuse to do it and the local DVLA office say they can then complain to Royal Mail. We did and got an apology letter and a book of first class stamps. The excuse was the staff werent trained, though they weren't trained in doing recorded delivery either, which is why I normally avoid them like the plague.

D & J

The last time we went out in the snow in our Ferret shopping to ASDA just wearing mock combats (This was the time we had a flat tyre but that's another story).

One man asked us were we regulars or reserve!!!:cheesy: Jackie was wearing her blue worktop with ... on it and I had a pink jacket on!

I hate to think what would have happened if we'd been wearing our tank coveralls!

Most of the public have no idea that military vehicles can be owned by private individuals including two women - a pity to spoil that conception.

D & J

Hi,

All on the OFCOM website - especially these pages :-

http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/guidance

http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/law'>http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/law'>http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/law

http://stakeholders.ofcom.org.uk/enforcement/spectrum-enforcement/law

D & J

I am right in thinking that we are not allowed to use the Military radios that Withams is so happily selling us...is this still the case...suppose as I am in the business I could just as easily check...

Hi Richard,

Glad you could comment - because we were just about to purchase the seal as opposed to the one we had from Marcus Glen.

Obviously retaining the washer is important!

Diana and Jackie

There is a problem using the seal illustrated, in that it has a dirt excluder lip. The correct seal, was made by GACO (George Angus), and although of a standard ID, OD and width it was slightly different shape on the outer side of the lip area. This was because a spacer washer was inserted against the seal and retained by a circlip. The washer was in three differing thicknesses to ensure a good "nip" when the clip was fitted, it also is shaped to stop the lip blowing out with any pressure building up in the flywheel. I know some people have dispensed with the washer, others have turned it around so that it is no longer protecting the lip from deformation. I also note the diagram shows the seal as metal cased type, I would be happier to use the rubber moulded type to ensure a good seal on the outer rim.

 

Not trying to be critical, but having done this job on many vehicles over the years, from Dingo to Ferret, Saracen, Saladin, and Fox, I am speaking from experience.

 

regards, Richard

And Here is the seal specification :-

English Metric SpecificationWeight0.09 LBS 0.04 KgShaft Diameter1.750 INSeal Outside Diameter2.506 INWidth0.374 INSpring TypeGARTER MaterialFLUORO Finish NoteA Part Diagram

We bought this seal of Marcus Glen recently.

The John Deere website can be found at https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.publicservlets.HomeUnsigned

Reference is made elsewhere on this website to the JD part NO, which is probably preferable as it appears to be of better construction. Alternatively any bearing supplier should have one off the shelf if you take along the old seal ...

J & D ( Nothing to do with John Deere btw)

Hi

Among other things Im fixing I want to fix the leak on the fluid coupling on the fox , ive read that a ferret fluid coupling can use a seal from john deere but is this the same as the Fox?

 

Also it was mentioned you can use RTV instant gasket for the seal? would this work?

 

any thoughts let me know the engines out and being repaired so i need to do this soonish

 

cheers

 

Mark B

The solder We use will as it is electrical cored solder - As We stated do NOT use plumbers flux as it will cause corrosion. it is specifically designed to remove corrosion and that is not something you want mixed in with electrics.

As stated make sure the parts to be soldered are clean

Diana and Jackie (and I have soldered billions of joints too!)

No it won't, the purpose of flux is to prevent oxides which the solder can not bond with, what you have done is just filled the void between the braid & the brass ferrule without the solder actualy bonding to it.. Trust me I know, I solder 1,000's of joints every year..

 

You may get away with it if you used cored solder as used on PCB's not correct for the job...

Remove the old conduit, take care not to damage the wiring, it is preferable to disconnect the wiring, pull it through the old conduit and then remove the conduit. Mark the wiring as neccessary

If the conduit goes through the wings or body of the vehicle cut through the conduit as most likely it will pass through a rubber grommet.

Grommets can be removed and reused if neccessary and it is a lot easier to remove them without the conduit in the way. The Grommets on our vehicle were probably 50 years old and in good condition.

Here is a picture of the old conduit cut in half. The Grommet it passed through was saved. We need to keep the end fittings.

This is the new conduit, cut ready to length using the old conduit as a guide. A junior hacksaw will cut the conduit, better still an abrasive cutting disc for a cleaner cut.

The next stage is to unsolder the end fittings. The Ferrules which fit over the braid are not going to be reused. On the first conduit we did the end fittings dropped out easily after we appplied heat. On the second headlamp conduit the brass ferrule had to be cut off before the end fittings would drop out as we unsoldered it.

Here you can see the roll of braid, new ferrules, a new and old screw fitting and the fittings which are soldered inside the flexible conduit.

Here the braid is slid over the new conduit. Make sure the braid is longer (about 30mm at least) than the the conduit underneath. Cut the brass tube which will become the ferrule over the braid, with a tube cutter.

Use the length of the old ferrule to determine the length of the new ferrule. Tube cutters often close up the ends of tube. make sure that the end of the ferrule is not reduced in diameter, if it is use a rat tail file to open it up.

Clean up all parts to be soldered. kitchen scourers work wonders! If the flexible conduit is new and clean inside very little cleaning will be neccessary. Do not attempt to clean the braid unless it is dirty/corroded.

Slide the new brass ferrule over the braid and conduit, the reason for leaving extra braid will now become apparent, as it makes it easier to slide the ferrule, ensure that the end of the ferrule and the end of the new conduit are flush.

Cut the excess braid, a sharp kitchen scissors is good, trim it back as close to the end of the conduit as possible. Stray ends can be tucked down inside the conduit, slide the recovered end fitting inside the conduit and tight against the ferrule.

Warm the end assembly and flow ample solder into the joint between the ferrule and end fitting. Capillary action will cause the solder to flow inside the assembly.

NOW THE IMPORTANT BIT.... FIT both screw fittings onto the new assembly, ensure that they face the correct way - screw ends out. If any grommets need to be fitted now is the time to do it.

Repeat the process of fitting the ferrule and end fitting on the remaining end. Make sure the braid is tight over the length of the flexible conduit before ffinally completing the soldering on the last end.

A neat job can be done of soldered joints by wiping with a damp cloth or towel roll, take care not to burn yourself.

Finally refit the conduit to the vehicle.

Job Done

Diana and Jackie

The Electrical conduit on our Ferret is in a bad state. Layers of paint and worse still rotten because the galvanised conduit under the braid was totally rusted.

Here's how to renew the conduit. Bear in mind the conduits can be a different size. This excercise was to renew the conduit on the headlamps and side/turn indicators on a Ferret

Tools - Heat Gun, tube cutter (22mm), pipe wrench, screwdrivers, junior hacksaw, vice.

Stores :- Brass tube 9/16 x .014 (ebay), SLEEVING BRAID MBS 95-7.5mm 10M REEL (rapidonline), metal conduit sleeving, nickel plate on brass - 10mm bore, (vintagecarparts) electrical cored solder. Screw on ferrules (pack of 6 on ebay, military surplus)

Note - do not use plumbing flux, if the brass parts are cleaned properly the solder wil flow with very little problem. Galvanised steel flexible conduit can be used but in time it will rust again, it will also cause a problem in soldering, the flexible metal conduit sleeving of brass will take solder easily.

The original screw fitting will most likely be of brass, if the fittings are under the mudguards or body re-use brass, if they are on the top surface of the vehicle then new screw fittings maybe used.

Take care not to damage the brass end fittings inside the old conduit. I have been unable to source new ones. There is no reason why with care they cannot be re-used, along with the screw fittings.

Next the photos :-..........

First attempt at remanufacturing the headlight conduit on our Ferret... How will come later!

Diana and Jackie

If you fit Jolley Electronic ignition the spluttering nonsense will diminish along with much easier starting and better fuel consumption (cost over £200 though :shocked:)

We use a 12/24volt battery charger off ebay fitted with an Ammeter to a 110v yellow plug and socket into an intervehicle charger starter plug and a long lead using mains cable which is ok for about 10 amps charging current. When the ammmeter drops back its time to disconnect the charger, unless of course the charger is an automatic float charger.

Suspect the brass tap maybe the reserve/main petrol tank tap ?

If you do leave it unmoved in the next few months jack it up off the tyres.

Diana and Jackie

After having the Ferret for a few days the first of many questions. May seem bleedin' obvious to some but I have to ask.

 

When starting up, obviously it needs to warm up. How long does it need to warm up for? Do you need to apply the choke to raise the revs, from what I agther the manual says not to use choke/ engine speed from start up. I have let the engine tick over for about 5 minutes, but even then, its very spluttery.

 

If you are leaving it unmoved for the winter period how do you keep the batteries charged up? Do you take them out? Or do you have an ingenious way of charging them and keeping them topped up in the vehicle?

 

There is a brass looking tap at the rear of the compartment. Is that fuel/oil shut off?

Hi!

Of all the pages in our spare parts book pages L37 and L38 are missing - the very pages I need. Please has anyone got a copy of the missing pages of the Ferret spare parts book they could scan and send? alternatively I can identify the parts which are front Headlamp Conduits - left and right and conduits to the front light towers (side/turn) again both left and right.

Otherwise it means getting a complete new spare parts book!

Thanks

Diana and Jackie

We recently bought a Ferret - it was in excellent condition, brakes tested etc etc, we had "no need to worry"

So far :-

All new brake cylinders and cables. One brake on one wheel seized completely both foot and handbrake.

One brake shoe carrier seized.

Brake shoes contaminated with oil

The brake bleed nipples all renewed.

All four new brake hoses renewed as they snapped in my hands!!!!

Master cylinder renewed and old fluid flushed out of brake system

Fuel guage didnt work - fixed loose wiring

Thermostat guage didnt work - new thermostat

oil flooding into driving compartment from gearbox - 4 new oil seals - hidden by jamming old stinking rags under gearbox

Complete new exhaust system as the old was bodged and leaking exhaust gas.

Carb air inlet loose

Headlamps renewed

Sidelight bulb jammed in with silver paper bulb holders rotten with rust.

Internal light didnt work - loose connector

Tacho didnt work - tacho cable damaged beyond salvage and rusty.

At least one grease nipple damaged and others blocked (ongoing work)

Battery boxes loose as were batteries.

Next on our agenda are new tyres this weekend.

One of the sellers boasted how he had taken his grandson for a drive - forgot to mention he could have killed him.

We are now roadworthy but how many others are not?

Diana and Jackie

When you buy a vehicle that was last used by the forces, you know it is maybe broken or has stood still for some time or both. When you buy a vehicle that has been in civilian hands it may run ok but sadly there is a real chance it will not have had the proper maintenance it deserves.

 

I know if someone owns a vehicle they can do what they like with it in terms of embellishments, gadgets, paint schemes etc to suit their fancy. Most of these can be corrected by a new owner if they so desire, but lack of proper maintenance can haunt subsequent owners for years to come.

 

I bought a pig 10 years ago that had 3 previous owners who I can only assume knew or cared little about maintaining their vehicle.

 

There are up to 9 lubrication points in the vicinity of each wheel station, but little effort seemed to have been applied to attending to this. I was plagued by nasty steering wheel wobble. I replaced all the steering rod ends which only improved things slightly.

 

Then I realised there seemed to be little effort applied to the lubrication of the shock absorber bushes. You can see why if you look at the freeplay in the bush!

 

 

To the purchaser of my pig don't worry you have had new shockers fitted & the steering is steady! If anyone wants to try re-bushing these 4 shockers then you are welcome to just have them. 2 are worn as in picture, 2 are only half as bad. Any takers? Otherwise they are for the skip!

http://www.m201.com/access/pneu2.htm

Says it all

Diana and Jackie

Yes and I removed a reluctant Dingo tyre with it, but at the expense of bending the centre. If you read the instuction book with it you will see what I mean. Works well on Bedford RL wheels though, what it was designed for.

We'll just nip down to Machine Mart and buy one - but if they dont have one they do have the cheapest 39" tyre levers you can get.

Diana and Jackie

 

:cool2: The tool you need is this one!

 

Chris

Sounds a good idea!

We have a 20 Ton lorry jack with a nice large flat base.

Diana and Jackie

from what ive seen at tire fitters using a bottle jack between tire and underneath of ferret might be a good way of breaking bead if you are doing a diy tire change

Hi

Yes we did buy new tubes as well - not taking any chances and not a good idea to re-use the old tubes when you have brand new tyres.

Tubes about £12.75 each with the extended valve stem.

About to go looking for long tyre levers next then!

Diana and Jackie.

I've had my tyres on and off loads of times. You can do the job yourself, but you will need some long bars. You can re-use the insert, and there is a nack to getting it back in. Buy new inner tubes as the old ones may be 30+ years old!

 

Chris

£145 each - do a search for Totec Tyres..

Diana and Jackie

have u any pics of tyres or link and how much were they ?

Hi,

Just bought five new MRF NDMS 9 x16 tyres for our Ferret from Totec Tyres.

Please can anyone tell us if we need to remove the runflat inserts and replace them with tyre gaiters? And if so where can we get suitable gaiters?

Any tips on changing these tyres would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks ......Diana and Jackie.

PS... he has just had delivery of this hard to obtain tyre - we also got the tubes.

Jackie and I have a Ferret, we've even been to Asda Shopping in it, we had no problem, just we had to watch out for badly driven cars driven by men in flat caps, or should I say they had to watch out for us.

Diana and Jackie....

Ps we wouldnt swop our Ferret for a man - no way!

Dear Mick,

 

Many thanks for your letter.

 

This is not a new problem and my post bag is full of such letters.

 

There is always a solution to a problem so please do not panic. Females are a strange thing and do respond well to TLC. You have two options a) romance b) money, you are going to have to throw one of those two things at it the problem - if it is a really bad case then be prepared to throw both options at it.

 

If this doesn't work then I am afraid you have no other option but for your pride and joy to go. Which I am sure you will be very sad about seeing as you married her.

 

I hope that is of help.

 

Jack.

The problem ended up being the cooling system filler cap. The previous owners must have know there was a problem since they gave us quite a few spares, one of which was a filler cap.

Cap and attached pipe changed - problem solved!

Diana and Jackie

ended up fitting nos rad ass but i bet u could get new valve from richard bannister now after a very good run once sytem cooled down it might take quarter of pint versus before new valve couple of pints! run your ferret for a good twenty mins at least get it nice and hot have your hand over rad outlet makes from temp rise you can feel thermostat has opened run for another ten mins turn eng off, wait twenty mins ish and carefully release rad cap u should with valve operating correctly hear a release of pressure .be ready though to put cap back on quickly if coolant wants to come out as well as pressure realease!!!!

The DVLA being a government agency dont make mistakes...They are Purrfect.

Diana and Jackie

Of course it could just show that mistakes have been made in the past - entirely possible if the process is largely self-certified (I've no idea what the process is) or if the vehicle has features that are only marginally different to the regs.

 

At the moment no one is able to be categorical as to which side of the line the vehicle falls.

 

As an aside, how easy would it be to identify similar vehicles on their database?

If I was applying to get this vehicle road registered and they refused I would using the Freedom of Information Act ask them to confirm how many of the type of vehicle (being specific about the vehicle) were registered for use on the public highway.

When they gave an answer of more than one (and presuming they did) then their previous utterances become nonsense.

If you want to beat officialdon the best course of action is to use their crap against them.

Diana and Jackie

At the risk of repeating points made by others, the DVLA are not making up the rules as they go along, they are applying the rules based on the advice they've recieved, which is quite reasonable. And it's a case specific decision, not one that applies to MVs/armour/tracked vehicles in general.

 

They would have to review the decision should further information come into their possession. Although it's disapointing they can't give you a full list of areas they may dispute, they do mention two Regulations in particular. If you can show they are wrong on those areas it may expose what other concerns they may have.