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Diana and Jackie

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Posts posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. I could feel it on one of the idler wheels not the other, even with a road wheel lifted it wasn't that apparent, only when I took  the wheels off and turned the hub was it clear there was excess drag.
    It's caused by years old oil past its days, or in the case of the idler hub goodness knows what lubricant because it wasn't oil.


  2. The friction in the hubs may not be apparent until the road/idler wheels are removed, it's not just the oil has thickened, it appears either the wrong lubricant has been added, or the oil has degraded (after years).
    There is no maintenance schedule to change the oil in the hubs, hence it probably never gets changed.
    I tried the oil change and it didn't work.
    I had to strip and washout the hub bearings, refit them  and refill to cure the excess friction.

  3. After a run don't just switch the engine off, let it idle for a while, it's the hottest running engine I've ever encountered.

    Make sure the plate on the bottom of the gearbox compartment is fitted.

    It seems on every wheel of mine the bearings need a washout, as they are way too stiff, since the oil has gone thick.  12 tight bearing sets add a lot of friction and increased fuel consumption as well as engine heat,

    (12 includes the idlers)

  4. 2 hours ago, SirLanceUK said:

    Well after going across to my Spartan for lots of other things and despite getting distracted by various people I have actuallty found the wiring loom for the cupola and sure enough there is a plug in the right position to plug in to the 3 pin socket on the periscope, and now thanks to Andy we know what that plug might be used for other than just a place where lots of wires get joined together.

    Another step forward.


    The heater.demister is an element around the sight eyepiece,  (which gets pretty hot)
    The plug to the right is the connection for the oft not seen commanders night sight.

  5. Instead of poking around in the engine and removing the front armour  you may be able to fit a ballast resistor in the drivers instrument panel, across the terminals of the starter button that shorts the ballast resistor out.- - needs investigating?
    Somewhere on here I posted a connection diagram of the DIP as the one from Green Machine Surplus has some mistakes.


    • Thanks 1

  6. 1 hour ago, radiomike7 said:

    Care to clarify, that sounds like you used E15 petrol not E5 or have I missed something?

    Asda don't sell E15   my way, perhaps they do with you?  so yes  it's E5. And yes 600ml in 1200ml out, anyone want to try getting more than 600ml out be my guest.

  7. Recently did a little experiment on E5 petrol, added 600ml of water to 4 litres of petrol, I extracted the 600ml of water out and another 600ml of Ethanol.

    It can be got out just takes a lot of effort. Have yet to find out the effect on the engine.


  8. 4 minutes ago, Alex2909 said:

    Hiya, thanks very much for the tip! As an (extremely!) new cvrt owner, could you give me some guidance on where physically it is in the engine bay? 

    On the front of the engine against the drivers firewall (which you may have to remove along with the drivers seat)


  9. I'm champing at the bit, after doing some major overhaul work and petrol being as low here as £1.02 a litre,  I can't even go for a test drive.

    I anticipate a minimum of a 3 month lock down if people play by the rules, but they aren't so that is going to make it longer. 😞

    • Like 1

  10. The petrol pump filter is easily available on Ebay.

    I fitted an extra CAV/Delphi filter in the fuel line as contaminant was passing through the other 2 filters - works a treat.


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