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1941 BSA WM20 - Reviews/Help

Mons 1914

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I just joined yesterday excellent information here.


Forgive me to jump straight in with both feet but I'm trying to buy a decent wartime WM20 in England restored to road worthy condition, If anyone can help please do let me know.

The Sherwood Yeo sherman is a wonderful story amazing. !




See pictures below.

Edited by Mons 1914
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looks like quite a good m20,obviously missing pannier frames etc but thats not really a problem ,reproes are available and some prefer the more sporty stripped down look,good to see it has its field stand and bash plate,but the rim on the speedo looks like a civvty one and the light switch looks like a 3 position instead of 4,is it a bike youve bought or just thinking about?



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Thank you Nigel,


I'm thinking about buying but would appreciate better equipped members comments which would help a great deal.


FRAME NUMBER WM2047599 & 73968



The seller mentioned the light switch is different, would this be a decent WM20 and worthy of buying.





BSA 17.jpg

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OK, this is a start.

- The rear frame is a later verson that takes the clamped on type of field stand - not a massive problem - happens quite often - but is not correct for the year, and really only makes sense with pillion equipment.

- The handlebar levers are all wrong. I'm not sure if the BSA combination levers were still being used by the end of 1941 - probably not - but it's either them or the standard Amal solid levers and single screw clamp choke and advance levers.

- The twistrip is late 50's on - the earlier ones have a distict ridge in the casting

- The toolbox is missing

- the front engine plate cover is missing

- The headlamp is postwar issue - the proper one would be a Lucas DU42 with a strip steel clip holding the rim on

- Ammeter and light switch - both wrong

- The regulator is wrong - it should be a Lucas MCR1

- Kneegrips are wrong - postwar issue

- Footrests should be rubber - the solid ones arrived later

- Tappet cover should be a flat steel plate, but is correct for the engine, which is from a much earlier contract (C 5110 1940) - don't expect matching numbers on a WD bike, it doesn't happen alot

- The wheel rims are those infernal Radaellis with flat sides - hate 'em

- The fork damper knob should be bakelite - check it out

- Chances are that the horn should still be mounted under the L.h. saddle spring

- Rear carrier is missing - either the original small one or the pannier type

- Rear convoy type is missing (obviously)

- The saddle is later fare but proper W.D. issue

- the front mudguard needs work at the front end

- Personal note - I have a profound hatred for painted fasteners and it also looks as if the bike was painted against a wall.

- Lastly, a bike with two frame numbers would already have me running for cover


Running the gauntlet of being called a rivet counter (not that this bothers me overly much) - there's probably going to be more besides. The best thing to do when looking for a WD bike is get the appropriate spares catalogue for the contract (C 9310 in this bike's case) and get yourself fully acquainted with what you should be looking at.

As for the price, that really depends on the sort of bike you're looking for. If total authenticity is not your bag and the Beeza runs like a train then it's merely pricey. If you want a really good one, look elsewhere.


Hope this is of assistance,


Edited by Stefano
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