Richard Grosvenor Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Hello , I have a little problem, I'm trying to change the tyres on my AEC Militant but I am having problems parting the rims on 3 of the wheels due to the nuts being totally rusted to the bolts. I've tried the normal things like soaking in oil and shot blasting the nuts but without success. I don't fancy using oxy-acetylene through fear of damaging the inner tube or the rim itself. So the only option is to cut off the nuts and replace them with new ones. But I don't seem to be able to find a supply of suitable nuts and bolts. They are M16's with about 50mm of tread ( no problem) but they need to have a tappered/cup washer on both sides as the holes in the rim are countersunk. I have tried most of the Military dealers without joy so does anyone know where I can get any from, I can't be the first person with this problem. Or is there any reason why I couldn't use flat washers with Ny-lock nuts to hold the rims together? Many Thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddball Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 I think I would go the oxy/acetylene route, just on the nut itself, you've got a lot of wheel rim to heat up before it starts to damage the tube. Really if you're changing the tyres you'd just as well fit new tubes while you're at it anyway. Failing that have you tried modern truck dealers for studs & nuts :?: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whistlinwolf Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Have you tried a windy gun they are great for loosening stuff off. Good luck Tim(1) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Grosvenor Posted September 20, 2005 Author Share Posted September 20, 2005 I,ve tried impact wrenches but all that happens is the nuts round off, they are very rusty so it doesn't matter how good a fit the socket is the nut has "gone soft" so will need replacing anyway. Alot of people have recomended the oxy/acetylene route but just as many people have warned agaisnt it on wheels. And, has D20 inner tubes aren't cheap, or that easy to get hold, of I really don't want to mess them up. On 3 of the wheels the nuts are facing out so they have been covered in several coats of paint and have come undone easily, but on the other 3, the nuts are facing inwards and have had 30-40years of muck on them. Replacement does seem to be the only option. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karoshi Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Richard I had a similar problem and used an electric drill. Drill a small (1/8th) pilot hole through the face of the nut at the widest point, being carefull not to damage the stud thread or to drill too deep to damage the drum. Progressivly enlarge the hole to the max you dare. Split the nut on the drill mark with a sharp cold chizel. This will release the tension and will allow easy removal. It all takes a little time but hey the winters coming! Karoshi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berni Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 I'm afraid we cheated & paid a commercial tyre fitter to do the work. It saved so much hassle cheers berni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 I've tried the normal things like soaking in oil and shot blasting the nuts but without success. I don't fancy using oxy-acetylene through fear of damaging the inner tube or the rim itself. They are M16's with about 50mm of tread ( no problem) but they need to have a tappered/cup washer on both sides as the holes in the rim are countersunk. Or is there any reason why I couldn't use flat washers with Ny-lock nuts to hold the rims together? Richard, Your answer is to use oxy/acet torch, a big one, so that the nut is heated fast, and have a 3/4"inch or 1 inch drive air wrench ready with a six sided socket. the tube will not suffer if the torch is not played on the rim and don't forget that there should be a gaiter fitted to all split rims. I spent many year working on British army vehicles in their workshops and Militants featured heavily at one time. I cannot be sure, but thought the bolts were secured in the rim? The nuts are taper seat and should not be replaced with ordinary nuts as the two rim halves will not centralise. You mentioned the bolts being M16, doubtlfull, unless they have been replaced, more like 5/8" and they would be either BSF or BSW if it is a Mk1 Millie. Best of luck. Kewelde Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Grosvenor Posted September 20, 2005 Author Share Posted September 20, 2005 Thanks for all the advice, but if I cut off the nuts I still have to find replacement ones. The chap who is helping me is a commercial tyre fitter, along with the very well equiped service van, but still no luck in removing the damm things! Any more ideas? Has anyone used flat washers with Nylock nuts instead of the normal tappered/cup washers? Many Thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Thanks for all the advice, but if I cut off the nuts I still have to find replacement ones. The chap who is helping me is a commercial tyre fitter, along with the very well equiped service van, but still no luck in removing the damm things! Richard, Use the gas to heat the nuts to expand them .....not cut them off. That is your only answer, if you want to save them, I have had to resort to doing this just getting the wheel nuts off on old Militants. Kewelde Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Grosvenor Posted September 20, 2005 Author Share Posted September 20, 2005 I must have been posting at the same time as Kewelde! When I said they are M16 that is the modern size I can get that fits, the ones on it now are imperial. There is a gaiter on the rims so it might be alright :? Yes the bolts have a slot in the top and have a locking tab to stop them turning but over the years quite a few of these have broken and a blob of weld is now there to secure them. Even though the nuts may undo with a lot of heat they are in such a poor state that I don't think I could reuse them. That is why I am looking for a new alternatve. Regards and thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest matt Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Hi Richard, Try http://www.nutty.com they might have what you need. Matt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Even though the nuts may undo with a lot of heat they are in such a poor state that I don't think I could reuse them.That is why I am looking for a new alternatve. Richard, As you mentioned M16, nuts must be 5/8" diam. Not sure how long the rim bolts are, but those on a Ferret wheel are listed as 1 3/16" long x 5/8"UNF. Taper seat nuts go with them. Another alternative is to use either these Ferret rim nuts or Ferret wheel nuts, also 5/8" UNF and weld in a suitable length 5/8" UNF bolt. Bolt rims together and tighten, in order to pull into line, before welding heads. A source for these Ferret nuts is Richard Banister 01797 253211 Part no's; Wheel nut RH thread 5310-99-910-7654 Rim clamping nut 5310-99-910-7656 Rim bolt 2530-99-809-2685 if no stock, try Marcus Glenn regards, Ayefve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Grosvenor Posted September 20, 2005 Author Share Posted September 20, 2005 Many Thanks, I've looked at the nuts on my Ferret and thought that they looked the same, the nuts on my FH70's rims also look the same. I've already tried Marcus, he is only about 10 miles from us, but he hasn't got any. I'll try Richard Banister tommorow. Thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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