teletech

They don't take all that much sun to get some movement. Desiccant in bulk is some help, DryZAir sells 10-lb bulk packs and they do work. Cost-effectiveness might depend on how well sealed your cab is; https://www.drizair.com Of course, it's just crushed Calcium Chloride, so buying that in bulk would be even cheaper. Getting a 50lb bag of ice melt grade cc and pouring it in a plastic tub would absorb a LOT of water. Just keep the dust off metal surfaces and don't breathe it.

Poroshenko goes tank-shopping. I love that the auto-translate says they want uniformity in the caterpillar-garden.

I can dig out part numbers, but for now: Fan belt, alternator belt (X2), Fan belt tensioner, alternator belt tensioner, hose from gearbox to heat exchanger, hose from heat-exchanger to gearbox oil filter. a few master-cylinder rebuild kits, and the mounting bracket for the seat back between the radio-operator and squad seating.. I also would welcome the FAL mounting brackets. I'm in the USA, so postage will be slightly more hassle than local, but my Spartan thanks you for your consideration.

They do sell solar car ventilators that you roll down a side window and shut these inside, mostly sold for venting heat, but they do help pull air through during the day which does help dry things out. Otherwise, I agree that keeping the moisture from the ground coming into the vehicle from below is a cheap and effective measure. I've seen many vehicles damaged greatly by taurping from above and that concentrating the moisture.

If anyone trips over this post and does know where they can be found, I'm in need. Thanks,

Having recently had a steering master cylinder fail and subsequently looked at several of them, they ranged from almost frozen to irreparable. They lurk deep in the bilges and are right under the driver's boots, so have plenty of opportunity to marinade in oil, dirt, and muck. At this point I'd consider any vehicle where I didn't know the MCs had been gone through in recent memory just asking for a failure at the worst moment. I'm sure many hobbyists have gone through them and they are great, but the ones from a Withams release were awful, hence the assume bad until proven good mentality.

I was just thinking it would be a way to get lower than E5 so you wouldn't have it absorbing water at all.

If you are convinced it's the Ethanol in the fuel causing you difficulties, it's really not difficult at all to remove it. Just pour the fuel in a vessel and add water. The alcohol binds to the water and come out of suspension with the petrol. Pour off the petrol or drain the water out the bottom and you are all set. Of course, you will have lost some octane, but a ~7:1 compression motor could hardly care. I use a 5-gallon glass water jug I've drilled a hole in for a drain fitting, but whatever works for you...

On to hoses. I've got one really nice hose, but the other two are very poor. I'm looking for hoses for sale, but also investigating other in the hopes of moving things along. I took them into a local shop and they had no idea what the fittings were, so that necessitates salvaging the existing ends, which can be a really challenging job in part because the hoses are set up for 1500PSI pressure handling. I confess, I don't understand that even slightly. From what I've found in the manual it appears the working pressure of the gearbox is internally regulated to 45-50PSI. Am I missing something?

It feels a lot like measuring Jello. first the spirit level technique to align the gearbox, then the motor needs to come up quite a bit. Then use a different level and find an irregularity in the bulkhead attachment flange, so re-level the gearbox and lower the motor half-way. Then fit the bulkhead with the fan and check to find the shafts aren't parallel and the gap uneven, so re-shim gearbox and lower the motor further, then realize the bulkhead is going to be shifted by the installation of the top armour... In the end, I set it a few thousandths off with the understanding that things will shift a bit when the top goes on and that there is some bend in the bulkhead mounting, there is some chance I'll have to shim the blower a few thousandths to compensate. Moving on. A friend did have a suggestion about why it was suggested the driveline should be set up with a slight angle in one direction but not the other. His idea is that it's set up that way to account for flex under load. I'm not satisfied with the idea, partly because I don't imagine very much hull flex considering the thickness of the material and construction, and partly because if anything I'd expect one to need to load things in the other direction. So, I still have no idea why they don't instruct one to set the crankshaft coaxial with the input shaft.

I'm curious, you don't happen to know the rationale for this? the idea that the crankshaft should be at a slight angle to the gearbox input shaft rather than making the best effort at parallel seems strange and that the direction of the angle matters is even odder. I guess one could argue that the shaft will never be truly parallel and coaxial and so a constant preload on the joint is better than an intermittent one, but that still isn't a help about why one end of the motor should be higher than the other. The flywheel-side bolts aren't bad, but the one under the injection-pump isn't a great deal of fun to access.

Oh, indeed! I'll have a copy of the manual coming as soon as I can get one on it's way, shipping internationally this time of year is going to be a challenge though I suspect, so I do very much appreciate you sending me that illustration to tide me over. I'd actually purchased a copy of the parts manual, but it came without the section on the gearbox. So, spherical washers top and bottom of the fifth bolt, That's what I'd have imagined as making sense, but what makes sense to me and a proper mechanical engineer are sometimes different things.

What are the conical washers, are we talking belleville washers or spherical washer sets?

No, I do not have that manual, but now I know where to find one. Pity about the shipping delay and such as I have several days off to play with my CVR(T). interesting to think the sponson was considered a trustworthy datum, but perhaps that what they used before the article I found. All sources agree the fan shaft and clutch drum running parallel is critical at least. Did you shim under the mount frame (between the hull and engine support cradle) or at the top of that cradle, below the shock-mounts? I'm looking up torque values now, but considering the weird aluminum they used in these, I wonder if I should use usual values?

I had a thread for acquisition, but on to installation and it seems like that could use it's own thread. The vehicle I'm working on presently is a diesel, someday I'll do my petrol one, but not for a while yet. I've got the gearbox sitting in it's spot, I do not have the centre bolt or shims as yet. I've set the angle per the document referenced below, but that results in the propeller shaft from the motor being about 3/16" low. So, either I've got the gearbox wrong, or I need to raise the motor. At present the space I'd need to fill for the centre bolt spacer is 1-3/8". I also could use help with the gearbox oil line routing, generally and in-particular it seems the oil level dipstick would interfere with the hose coming from the oil filter housing. Here's the note saying the input face of the clutch should be parallel to the bulkhead/fan: transmission-to-fan-alignment-Craftsman-MARCH-2016.pdf

It's a mix. The MOD has supplied many vehicles, but many more have been purchased by private donors and perhaps even the Ukrainian government. I believe there have also been donations from other governments, like I wouldn't be surprised to find some of the Latvian CVR(T) had been transferred. I did notice a Wanted advert on Milweb a while back. Here's one batch from the MOD.

A review of a Ferret. The subtitles are choppy, but from the live MG-43 mount and shill for AZOV, I assume this is a Ferret in Ukraine.

I don't know if I do or not. I'm afraid between the gearbox-less Spartan, the Scorpion that was "complete" but needed a complete nut&bolt teardown, and another incomplete Spartan having been broken for spares and those spares haphazardly included in the container when both vehicles were shipped, then a handfull of years passing, things have mixed and diffused a bit, so I'm trying to claw my way back to some semblance of order. I found three of four fibre ring pieces used for clamping the sides of the gearbox and made a fourth. I've not yet found the shim and bolt for the centre mount point though. Any details would be welcome so I can turn out new parts or identify the parts I may still own. I did find an article from April 2016 in "Craftsman" saying one must align the gearbox to the cooling fan and firewall using a sensitive level, rather than the previous method, so that's a big help in preventing me going wrong.

So, now that I have a gearbox (yay), it would be really handy to have a checklist for reassembly. It's not so much that I don't see what goes where, but I'd rather not get the order of operations wrong and have to backtrack or make my life harder than it has to be. I'd also appreciate pictures of the gearbox oil-line routing since I'm finding that non-intuitive.

How many CVR(T) did he say? Surely 371 can't be just CVR(T)... well, I guess it could. What a field!

They are doing exactly what they were made for, against exactly the nemesis they were designed with in mind. Observed or purported CVRT participation. I wonder how many Ferrets wound up going? About 11 minutes in:

At almost $20,000USD (including shipping and customs), I don't see myself buying more than the one for now. I don't know if the massive numbers of CVR(T) that have gone to Ukraine of late will, in due course, wind up coming available as spares or surplus vehicles. It might be a way for some of the locals there to make a little money when it comes time to rebuild.

I know they have been scarce and expensive, but wondering what I should be expecting to pay and where I should be looking these days? I suspect in a year or so there might be lots of CVR(T) parts available in Ukraine as they 'use-up' the vehicles recently given to them, but not sure they will be in the best shape to sell the remainders off.

"Barge All Purpose Cement" is popular among sandal and shoe repair operations, I wonder how that would work. I'm happy to give it a go on one of my road wheels that has let go, but considering my lack of progress it could be another decade at least before I have an answer about it's utility.

Some primer applied, still need to touch up a couple areas and get a second coat in a few more, but it's mostly one color and just about ready for paint. So, getting ready for the next bit, pivot brackets. I'm curious to know if it's recommended to replace the seals or if they look fine to just re-use them? The larger inboard seal 2530-99-835-5787 look like they should hold up well and the small outboard seal that's basically an X-cross section o-ring 5330-99-942-9983 looks both less robust and also cheaper. Is there an easy industry-standard replacement perhaps? I notice the XMOD has a listing for a 5331-99-942-9983 which has the same ID but a standard round cross section: https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=7234&t=ORing_6170_Deg_2.6_IN_ID_SSML717_100334 After that I start in on torsion bars. Mine are utterly disgusting. Do I just wash them off and hope for the best or should I remove all the wrap tape and then re-wrap? If I'm removing the tape should I then sandblast, shot-peen, or treat the bars in some other manner to help them last? Some sort of paint in addition to or instead of the tape?