andypugh

5 hours ago, David Herbert said:

Can you get a chisel axially into the slot you have cut in the inner race and hit it hard enough to split the remaining web and allow the race to lift of the axle ?

Another vote for this. It's a fairly standard way to remove inner races. 

57 minutes ago, Cel said:

That way you apply the force directly to the stuck part.

That's a good point. At the moment the effect of the bearing taper is to squeeze the inner race down on to the shaft as the wheel is pulled. 

Maybe a mag-drill and a carbide drill bit to drill a hole axially through the inner race. 

(Spark erosion with a tubular cutter to do exactly the same thing would probably also work, and would be more dependable when it broke through. No chance of adding a broken carbide drill bit to the problem.)

Maybe someone hires these out? https://www.eurospark.co.uk/product/tr100-broken-tap-remover/

I don't think that you _need_ to quench when annealing copper. It is just that you _can_ as it does not have any hardening effect, it can remove some of the scale, and it saves waiting for it to be comfortable to handle again. 

1 hour ago, PITT24423 said:

with a choice of pistons 5" or 5 1/4" long no indication why  

Possibly a choice of compression ratio, if the difference is in the crown-to-gudgeon-pin distance rather than just a longer skirt. 

45 minutes ago, Old Bill said:

As an aside, I made up some paper gaskets to go beneath the blocks. Does anyone have any views on this? Should the gaskets be there or not? I must admit that I am still in two minds over this

I have two views. Just like you 🙂

I stand ready to argue against all stated opinions on both sides. 

Alldays and Onions also made motor cars briefly. One of my dad's favourites in the game "name all the car marques beginning with A, then B and so on"

The commencement of the game is normally announced by the word "Allard"....

Spotted on Facebook Marketplace:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/600949781352415/

There is a suggestion of Dennis, but if so it's not one I recognise. 

Note the handbrake and quadrant re-positioned and re-purposed(?).

It wasn't this company, but they might be a useful source:

http://www.rolledrings.co.uk/

My impression is that such rings are a product with low setup costs, and so they might actually be affordable in low volumes. 

7 hours ago, mammoth said:

 is there any sign as to how it was manufactured such as a welded join?

As a kid I recall driving past a seamless ring rolling mill somewhere near Sheffield and my dad explaining the process to me. (He worked for David Brown, who use forged rings as the starting point for some of their gears) 

I have seen variants where the mandrel is pushed through a solid billet, too. 

1 hour ago, Old Bill said:

They are all a boit ropy so Dad has turned up some new ones (9/18" dia, just to be awkward)

That is an awkward way to say 1/2" 🙂

If you want I can put a dome on them in seconds with my CNC lathe. I need to do at least one for the Fire Engine anyway. 

2 hours ago, Gordon_M said:

The 'strange aluminium spacer' may be there deliberately as a sacrificial corrosion point, cheap, easily replaced, and preventing corrosion on the tank face.  I assume it faces aluminium on one side and still on the other?

The 'strange aluminium spacer' also seems to have a crack through to one of the holes. I wonder if that will cause a weep? 

Maybe some sort of penetrating sealant (Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure?) might be worth trying. 

A YouTube video of an upcoming clearance auction seems to have a drill similar to that from the mobile workshop:

https://youtu.be/ojGfR-A_FW4?t=748

35 minutes ago, 8_10 Brass Cleaner said:

the machine tools are scrap. Nothing more.

The Plano-mill might be salvaged, if anyone wanted one, as the main slides are (largely) protected by the table. 

Machines always look more rusty in photos/video than in RL, too. My current lathe looked rusted beyond use in the photos, but polished up fine with a bit of wire wool. Though I would not go so far as to assume that the same is true of the lathes in the video. 

FWIW the creator of the video knows more than a bit about lathe reconditioning, he is nearly finished with a complete restoration / re-scrape of a Holbrook.

2 hours ago, radiomike7 said:

Would metric cap screws be a good starting point, they are available in UHT 10.9 and 12.9 versions?

It's easier to make hex-head bolts out of hex-head bolts, and they are available in the same grades as cap screws. 

20 hours ago, Old Bill said:

 

One concern though, was that several of the big-end bolts look a bit iffy. I think we shall have to make some replacements but what sort of steel should we use? 🙂

For the flywheel bolts of our N-type (which have broken more than once) I started with bigger-than-needed HT metric bolts, and machined them all over. 

It's an easy way to be sure that you have the right sort of steel and the right sort of heat treatment. 

1 hour ago, Old Bill said:

That tank is remarkably like the Dennis tank. I guess it was an available standard of the period. Dennis mounted the tank with the filler on the rhs Steve 😁

Not always, on our N-type the filler is under the passenger side seat, though the fuel outlet is on the right hand (carbutettor) side. 

You appear to now have two adjustments? The infinite worm-drive bolt and the finite vernier coupling? 

I think it might take a thermocouple to figure out which way to go. 
Possibly richer would run cooler? 

1 hour ago, Asciidv said:

Steve, is your engine running hotter because of the modern petrol? It would be interesting to have an exhaust gas temperature probe in place and try different petrols.

And maybe different timing. 

32 minutes ago, Scrunt & Farthing said:

 you can see it is a new-build infilling from the brick headers on the windows

Aye, they didn't have Catnic Lintels in 1915. In fact not until 1969: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catnic

I couldn't resist trying to get exactly the same perspective. This is as close as I could get on Steetview. 
https://goo.gl/maps/yHurwMjyhD7Tba8t6

It looks like the bus stop is in exactly the same place. 

I am not sure what we are seeing to the right of the bus stop in the original photo. 

1 hour ago, radiomike7 said:

From Wiki:

In 1913 they (David Brown) established a joint venture in America with Timken for Radicon worm drive units.

But I doubt that is what is actually in the rear axles, as a different manufacturer is mentioned. 

(I have something of an interest in David Brown, my late dad started with them at 14 straight out of school, and left 49 years later having worked his way up from fitter, via the drawing office, to service manager and senior commissioning engineer)

18 hours ago, mammoth said:

I have heard of David Brown being involved in USA production but this is the first time I have seen such a specific mention.

It just says "David Brown Type" which might just mean that it uses the David Brown worm gear patents.