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andypugh

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Posts posted by andypugh

  1. 17 minutes ago, radiomike7 said:

    Have you looked at 1" x 16 tpi UNS?  LH may be an issue.

    It's probably worth trying to figure out the thread angle. There is a fair chance that a British car of that age would be using 55 degree Whitworth profile threads. 

    Not that measuring a thread angle is particularly trivial. 

  2. 12 minutes ago, Bill Coates said:

    A bit of thread hi-jacking again....I'm not in the same league as you guys but I'm rebuilding a 1934 Singer

    Ben has a Singer too: https://hmvf.co.uk/topic/30968-1914-dennis-lorry/?do=findComment&comment=461079

     

    15 minutes ago, Bill Coates said:

    have found a thread size I can't identify. It's 1" diameter 16tpi and just to confuse...is l/h! 

    There is no requirement that any thread conform to any standard. Especially if LH. 
    What you have was probably called out on the drawing just as "1in x 16 LH" and left at that. Possibly with a reference to a matching gauge. 
     

    I don't see any candidate threads in this list here: http://www.bodgesoc.org/thread_dia_pitch.html

     

  3. 1 hour ago, Citroman said:

    Here just over the border at the Aachen technical university they can 3D-print metal. No one like that in your area?

    You can order 3D printed aluminium online. But it's horribly expensive:

    https://www.shapeways.com/materials

    I looked at having an inlet manifold for a motorcycle cast, and it would have been £1200. 

    However, I think that the main part of the cost is the overall volume (and especially height) so the pump parts might be worth investigating. 

     

    3D printing a pattern for conventional foundry casting is probably worth considering, though. 

     

    We have a couple of Aluminium printers at work, but sadly I have not found a way to sneak my parts on to them. 

    • Like 1
  4. On 12/10/2020 at 3:01 PM, alsfarms said:

    Here is a picture of the manufacturing of the frame for a Riker truck.  Most assuredly not modern mass production technology!

    I visited the Dennis factory in the late 1980s and it was much the same then. I think that low-volume truck production might have changed less than you think.

     

    • Like 1
  5. On 10/4/2020 at 5:44 PM, Tony B said:

    That central accelerator pedal! I drove a Mk1 Quad and a mate'sMercury with that set up.  The underpants bill went up alarmingly.

    I had the inverse problem. After I finished my course at university I hung around for the rest of the summer taking the fire engine (which has a central accelerator pedal and hand-operated brake) to rallies. When it was all over I rented a transit van to take all my stuff back North to start a PhD. 
    It was as I was heading down my road, which runs straight out into the A4 near Heathrow, that I suddenly couldn't remember which pedal was the brake on a modern vehicle....

  6. 11 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

    The point I was making was that anyone working on a vehicle that was for example BSF / BSW threaded, then it makes it easier for others to maintain it if all original types of threads are employed.

    I don't know if you were replying to me, but you quoted my post so I assume so. 

    I would never (well, almost never[1]) dream of using anything but an exact replica thread and fastener. 

    What I was pointing out was that a correct imperial coach screw can be found inside the metric one if you peel it carefully. 

     

    [1] The flywheel bolts on the 1916 Dennis currently have metric heads, but as they are prevented from rotating by machined flats rather than a spanner this is not a concern for assembly/disassembly. I used metric washer-faced bolts as a source of high-tensile steel of the right type and heat-treatment. 

  7. 42 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

    Surely 10/16" is commonly known as 5/8" ? 

    It is, but stated the way I did I feel it makes it clearer that an M16 bolt has 1/16" of extra diameter to work with. 

    (If I ask you what the difference is between 5/8 and 9/16 isn't the first thing that you do to double the 8ths?)

  8. 34 minutes ago, Minesweeper said:

    16mm is close enough - it is now just satisfying Steve who is a Purist!

    When we needed some feather-edge coach bolts for the wings of the fire engine one of the club members (a famous loony) re-machined metric bolts. He used MNC, Manual Numeric Control, for the heads. He had a table of coordinates and dialled them in by hand on the lathe handles. 

    M16 is 10/16" so I would imagine that you could find some 9/16 coach bolts hiding inside metric 16mm ones. 

    M14 is slightly undersize for 9/16. And I rather expect that M14 coach bolts are rarer than 9/16. 

    However M16 coach bolts are likely to be 2mm pitch, so I imagine that you would need to cut all the thread off of over-length ones to get a good thread. 

    Alternatively, perhaps try the US, but again buying over-length and re-threading. 

    https://www.fastenersclearinghouse.com/fastener-search=carriage-bolts&size=9/16-12&Cat1=PRM460D65E02814;&Cat2=FL3DCA0E45011;

  9. 2 hours ago, alsfarms said:

    Surely pre WW-1.  What a brute these early steam engines were.  I thought to share the You Tube link for those steam enthusiasts among us.  Enjoy!

    At first I thought  that the counterweight on the sledge wasn't moving (it moves forwards through the pull in competive pulling) but on a re-watch it is. So that's quite impressive. 

  10. 2 hours ago, alsfarms said:

    HMMMM, does anyone have pictures from the time that may show the subtle differences in Khaki paint used by Allied partners? 

    You might find contemporaneous oil paintings, I suppose. 

    Colour photography was available at the time, so I would not want to rely too much on colour fidelity. Especially this long after the fact. 

    There is a 1917 photo of a French Soldier on the Wikipedia page, interestingly: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_photography

    • Like 1
  11. 12 minutes ago, PITT24423 said:

    Will need them at Dorset if its wet ⛈️ like 2014 ,Webbys Locomobile was unstoppable with its original chains on.

    Maybe, I remember an Enfield Pageant in the 80's where the field was like a mud pudding, with a dry layer of turf over a squidgy base. Low gound-pressure vehicles didn't even notice, but those of us on narrow solids were completely stuck. 

    But: The simple application of a Landrover was a lot less bother than putting chains on. 

    Not that seeing chains in action isn't an end unto itself. 

  12. 21 minutes ago, Great War truck said:

    All seven of Rear Wheel Chain Brackets now removed from the first wheel - it is questionable if any of them are fit to fight again

    Just an opinion, but they are original, and you are unlikely ever to need to use them, so I would keep them, patina and all. 

    • Like 1
  13. 3 hours ago, alsfarms said:

    What is your plans for the core?  If I stay with the Riker project, I will need to build the radiator for that truck also.

    Are you following the 1908 Dennis thread? Ben is building an entire radiator from scratch there, too. 

    • Like 1
  14. 13 hours ago, Great War truck said:

    The first of the two Brake Bands now has its ends riveted on but still the second one to do. Riveting just a little awkward for one pair of hands but the "gallows! helps.

    What you need is a hydraulic rivet squeezer 🙂 (I am surprised that you haven't made one?)

  15. On 6/5/2020 at 9:41 AM, Alastair said:

    I have a 1911 Renault and the exhaust manifold has a female thread for attachment of the down pipe.  The thread is almost non existent and obviously a very non standard size.  Does anyone know whether the Pyro Putty mentioned above set hard enough for me to cut466483643_Exhaustmanifold.thumb.JPG.26da31390b1356b7f88301f305229a8d.JPG a viable thread in it?

    Off topic for this thread, but here is how it got fixed: 

     

    • Like 3
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