andypugh

4 hours ago, Old Bill said:

I had previously spent a couple of evenings filing them out and they were probably only a penny stampings originally! The bent-over tag locates in the keyway in the casting.

That's definitely a job that I would have farmed-out to the local laser cutter (or an online one) 

14 hours ago, Old Bill said:

That will have its own challenges as it has to be lifted up from underneath

It doesn't have to be done that way. You could  turn the chassis upside down and lower the gearbox onto it. 

I am trying to decide if it's a generator set, or an engine under test on a dynamometer. It looks more like the former, but the scale of the base might point to the latter. 

5 hours ago, MarkV said:

was wondering if "Federal" trucks contributed in WWI. 

The Wikipedia page for the Federal Motor Truck Company says:

"Federal built its first U.S. military trucks in 1918, for the U.S. Air Force. More diverse military (tractor) trucks, including tank transporters, dump trucks, and heavy wreckers, were built for U.S. forces from 1933 through 1945. Federal produced over 10,000 trucks for the military."

3 hours ago, Citroman said:

Picture of getting rid of handgrenades in Switzerland after WW1...very safe system..

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Richard_Montgomery

The pinion damage could be due to the bearing failure (if bad enough) 

I would test the contact with the new bearings and then make the decision. 
 

I can make those vernier couplings from scratch, if that's any help in the future. 
Here is one I made earlier: https://photos.app.goo.gl/erDQQfRWMD61Bh339

48 minutes ago, BenHawkins said:

(making 14,000 in total).

How has the punch/die held up? Did it require any sharpening or rework? 

This discussion here has pictures of the works as-was and links to Google Maps images of what is there now. 

https://hmvf.co.uk/topic/41251-karrier-wds/page/10/

1 hour ago, Asciidv said:

Make new! You haven't flexed your pattern making skills very much on this project so far, so out with the MDF!

I would think that building it up (with silver solder, or brazing rod, or MIG brazing wire) and re-cutting the thread would retain more originality. 

I was misinterpreting the photo, clearly. 
You could probably have it 3D printed in bronze. Might not be cheap, though. 
But I imagine that your plan is to make a pattern out of wood, leather and gutta-percha  and send it to a foundry?

5 hours ago, Old Bill said:

Thanks Chaps.There is a solution!

You may need several. Those thin pressed-brass parts look like an interesting application for 3D-printed press tooling. 

According to that YouTube it can work surprisingly well. 

Following Asciidv's lead:

https://www.heritagesteamsupplies.co.uk/10-1-4-long-x-5-8-od-gauge-glass-tube.html

On 11/8/2022 at 8:14 PM, Richard Peskett said:

Wells were a popular make  in the UK, ,  enter in an online search and there are plenty of images of these . 

 

The search led me to https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203930200361
Which also shows an "Oil Cabinet" which is a better match for the device in question as it has a similar arrangement of an outlet spigot inside the lid. 

1 hour ago, Ex-boy said:

I have to thank you for posting the directory, as I have been fascinated by some of the trades listed. What a different world it was then.

Indeed. I had a bit of a look myself, and was interested to see "Locksmiths - see Whitesmiths". Also 4 manufacturers of Shoddy but none of the related "Mungo". Though thinking about it Mungo might have been developed after 1886. 

<google> No, it existed by then: https://kirkleescousins.co.uk/shoddy-and-mungo/ 

Seems odd to get enthusiastic about a parts-washer, but that's lovely. 

Page 207 here has them listed at West End Mill
https://www.bradfordfhs.org.uk/_resources/tradedirectories/post-office-bradford-directory-1887-8.pdf
And that itself is listed between Norcroft Brow and Longside Lane which leads me to suspect that they were here:
https://goo.gl/maps/CnQ4BdY45PUBDhYX9

or here

https://goo.gl/maps/rUxbMDfzEHvShNht8

The first one seems have been demolished by the university, if you move about it disappears. 

http://www.e-m-p.biz/classic-cars/ have done some almost magical repairs on bits of our 1916 Dennis (and the 1905 car) with laser welding of ancient aluminium. 

Odd to use a coronet for "peerless" as it is a sign of rank of the peerage 🙂

Possibly a little late now, but one approach to the clearance angle issue would be to shim the blade back in the slot (away from the axis) when turning it on the lathe , then remove the shim so that it is closer to the axis for cutting. 

From the text:

NEBRASKA TRUCK HOARD AUCTION!! Selling Over 950 Trucks & Vehicles!! An amazing collection of Rust-Free Western Nebraska Gems!! Brand Names include: Diamond T, Peterbilt, GMC, Chevy, Dodge, Ford, International, Autocar, White, McDonald, Kenworth, Freightliner, Federal, Reo, Stewart, FWD, Oshkosh, Studebaker, Jeep & Others!

Autocar? Do you have enough yet Steve? 

1:10 shows a very different attitude to food hygiene to now!

2 hours ago, Great War truck said:

Not seen that before but i dont think it is related. I found another photo of it and it says "The Peerless Whittler - The Burke manufacturing Co". Lots of different models on this website:

The logo does seem extremely similar to the one that you posted several years ago:

https://hmvf.co.uk/topic/218-ww1-peerless-truck/?do=findComment&comment=360570

Whether it is not identical because the artwork for the plaques would have been hand-drawn back then, or whether it is similar because of typographical conventions of the time is hard to tell at this remove. 

Randomly saw this in Youtube. Going by the logo plate it is the same Peerless. 

12 hours ago, Old Bill said:

I intend to set it up in the lathe and turn the profile back to where it should be. It is going to be an awkward thing to hold though!

 

I think I would bore a tapered socket to push it into and a plug for the tailstock to do the pushing. 

It's interesting to note that the wheel bearings on the Dennises are simple bronze sleeves. And seem to bear up reasonably well. Easy (if expensive) to re-make.