lowfat

No it wont run if you put mains in it.

If its single phase its rated to 115 volts and 400Htz.

Mains is 240 volts and 50 htz.

I added a picture to my first post is it the same

The starter part of it will be using 28vdc. Aircraft battery power.

That generator is a 3 phase 115/200 vac 400hz generator.

I doubt it will be what you want. does it have 6 large output terminals and 3 or 4 smaller terminals?

Typically a gas turbine engine with a starter/generator sytem is DC 28 volts and uses brushes.

The generator has a control box that allows it start the engine then when a specific speed is reached it becomes a generator.

http://www.gasturbineworld.co.uk/garrettgasturbines.html

Does it look like the silver cylinder in the picture? that is what a stater genny looks like for this engine.

you might want to start your own thread about specific vehicles. More chance of finding one.

I used a big air hammer to move my sleeves.

it was the best way to get the force required in a controllable way.

In fact it made a huge difference in the dismantling process in general.

The early srs system as it uses resistors in the harness to check for brakes or shorts.

The computer monitors the cables and is expecting to see specific resistances to high and it fails to low and it fails .

A duff battery could possibly affect this monitoring I guess.

the airbag srs system will NOT self clear unfortunately. Get the codes read and cleared see what comes back.

Make sure you have a good battery on and its fully charged.

Where abouts are you I have P38 Nano com im in Cornwall.

As I said earlier. Your srs is earlier. There are no connections to seat belts or seats for that matter.

you have 2 crash switches behind the headlights and a computer between the seats. Please get the free manuals it will help .the srs harness has resistors at various points which the computer regularly checks.If the resistance is out of toleryyou get the light. Get the codes read and go from there.

You Can get the manuals free on line its called Rave just search and follow the instructions.

The srs light is a mot fail.

You may be lucky and be just clear the codes and reset.

It does not have a seat belt switch it has 2 crash sensors in the front wings big yellow boxes behind the head lights.

The SRS computer is under the centre console between the seats.

My light kept coming on it was the computer 99 pence on Ebay.

The brake line which runs from the front right wheel arch to the rear axle is steel and rots. It runs along the top of the chassis and rots by the rear airbag mount. you cant see it very easily mine failed and I changed it to kunifer.

I generally use the internet for parts Britpart used to have a really bad reputation but thy have upped their game and parts are 50 to 70 % less than genuine it makes the car affordable.

You cannot use generic Fault code readers they must be landrover/p38 specific.

blackbox soloutions https://blackbox-solutions.com/ is an example

http://www.lynx-diagnostics.com/land-rover-coverage/rr-p38/ is another

Rangerovers.net

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/

are good forums. landyzone is not for the faint hearted they can be quite brutal.

I love my rangy.

Jagdpanzer 38 carrying the 150 mm sIG 33/2 Howitzer, of which 30 were produced before the end of the war

I saw it yesterday. Not sure if I liked it .

The British just seemed to run away I know its a film about a retreat/ defeat but the British did some rearguard action as well as the French.

The problem with films is people forget that they are a fiction a story and become perceived as fact.

other opinions are available.

they have to be "timed"

Well its finished and been at war and piece looks very nice.

Its just a diversion from brexit boys and girls

Have you tried pirtek? we use this style on aircraft ground equipment and they made our hoses.. But I didnt foot the bill.

Lots of them around i paid £50 for mine

My car buddies who have detailed thread builds like your self have had the same experience.

They are voting with their feet..

Quote

Not deleted mine yet I have downloaded the whole album onto a file on my desktop and will back that up. I won't use photobucket again but will leave the pics there so they have to use respurces to store them.

Put it in the freezer in a plastic bag over night. Then drop it in boiling warter. Might be enough to get it moving.

As above the tracta joint has probably moved I used Vaseline to stiffen it up. I also found that the "face" of the bevel gear box had gone elliptical due to the beating it had taken over the years. So that the wheel station cup wouldn't seat fully home and the cork was showing as in your case. I took the end of the wheelstation and checked it would slide in easy first. I had to dress the damage out with a die grinder and flap wheel.

Once the cup fitted into the bevel gear box I reassembled the wheelstation,greased up the tracta joint and it slid together a charm.

Well I use 3 methods to get the pins out.

first I got a piece of aluminium Bar about an inch in diameter and about 18 inches long . It needs to be just smaller than the pin to act as drift when used with a sledge hammer. Yes Sledge hammer.

Second is a slide hammer with the different sized unf screws to fit in the pins.

Third is a large threaded rod and pipe which the unf screws fit into and a large nut to tighten which helps pull the pin out.

I will see if I can find them to take pictures.

My best time of taking a wheel station off is about 45 minutes. I took weeks to develop the tools / technique.

Pretty sure you can remove the locking plates and use them else where.The wheel studs are handed though

Have you tried to hand crank it to see if starts?

this might help if you havent seen it before it also describes how to make some of the tools you will need.

http://stollyfiles.blogspot.co.uk/2009/02/v644pt1-fv622-detailed-activity-guide.html

I made one out of some scrap 1/4 plate that i welded together then ground to size. also some of them on mine fitted a 1/2 inch drive ratchet..

a coat of exhaust paste cant do any harm and will take up any ware in fittings. belt and braces

Hes after the splined stub shaft that fits into the pto gearbox i gather from posts on other forums as well.