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Posts posted by lowfat
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Excellent news
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In comparison the early T34 Engines and transmissions Lasted a few hundred miles with steel manganese tracks by the way,
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Jez just seen its a Year since I last did any thing .no wonder she didn't want to speak to me.
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So spent the Day at Stalwart Plaza. Broke more than I fixed but that's the way it goes.
Got it running "yeah"
Air compressor offload valve is stuck "BOO"
Spliced eyes into new rope for the load deck Tarp. "Yeah" looks good but I used blue Nylon rope so it stands out a bit.
One of Fire extinguishers exploded due to corrosion "Boo" a handle held one on the cab side.
Freed off door looks and latches "Yeah"
Blew the steel brake pipe on the forward lh brake caliper"BOO" not sure what to do about that.
May go tomorrow as well If I do I may supply pictures
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I just bought the ones from island 4x4
pound each I think.
Just checked £1.75 plus vat. The ones for genuine alloys
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probably easier to make a new tank than dismantle the old one
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well that's a fine mess that you can't recoat the tank.
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This patch isn’t under pressure, only gravity if I’m not mistaken. So I would think 1 in screw in each corner is adequate.
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Small aircraft museum at Newquay Airport
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I though the same more exclusion than cover.
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As it says use external resistor I suspect you may have damaged it . this style of galvanometer is supposed to have a resistor in series with it you then connect the resistor and voltmeter across the voltage you want to measure.
The scale is a Dual scale as this would be a panel mount meter with a switch to change the size of the resistor in series with it .
More for test equipment than vehicles. The Fe refers to Iron in the core.
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You take the shaft joining muff which is about 4 inches long. Machine the splines away for about 1 inch. So you end up with 3 inches of the 4 inch tube or muff with splines and 1 inch nice and smooth. It’s this smooth part of the tube which no longer drives anything but supports the shaft when you slide the muff to disengage drive. That’s the theory.
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Thanks for poping in Ron.. still follow your adventures with the Ultimate forward control..
John
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the difficulty with the stalwart is the lack of space around the drive shafts and supporting the 2 inch thick solid steel 3 foot long shafts .
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you can disconnect and remove the driveshafts to the front and rear wheels. Your stolly is now 2 wheel drive and alleged behaves better. Many people talk of manufacturing disconnects to use on the go its very popular in Australia .
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7 hours ago, Dan77 said:
I’d be happy too. Will you need the bits quickly?
Dan
Well its been 4 years in my care. I have been picking things up as I go. Im in no rush just looks worse than it is. I have been told by people who have done the repair before its about 40 hours for a skilled welder. It would be good to get the panels done. the spannering it needs is a walk in the park then.
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My spare stolly is currently on life support while it may be terminal I suspect major decorroding could save its life.
It needs new metal over the wheels both sides the full length of the load bay.. I suspect you will be carrying out similar surgery.
I don't have access to the equipment you appear to .
I would be interested ina set . If your folding up 1 set could you fold me one at the same time?
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Good news where are you based?
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more here the rebuildat Coventry and plan to fly with 40 other c47s over d day 2019
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thought you chaps might be interested in this little project..
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a vacuum cleaner would most certainly explode if it relies on a brushed electric motor.
We vented aircraft fuel tanks with compressed air powered venturi . The tank was opened at either end and at one a pipe a couple of foot long with venturi at the bottom was placed over the opening. This ensured a good airflow through the tank.
it was at least 24 hours after all puddles of fuel were gone from the tank before work could be carried out. Later an explosi meter was used to show safe atmosphere.
Stalwart Driver Badly Injured Australia
in MV Chatter
Posted
He is making a recovery apparently.