ruxy

Comma probably manufacture more AF than anybody else in Uk.

The technical datasheet for the industry standard Super Coldmaster , states Alloy / Iron.

Are you afraid your engine has some sort of inferior aluminium alloy from WW2 ?

If you don't by a off-shelf product - who is going to mix you a drum to your specific requirements ?

Seems no get out clause to me , why don't you send a email with a specific question or to , specific query = specific answer..

SUPERCOLDMASTER

APPLICATION

• A Mono Ethylene Glycol (MEG) based engine coolant / anti-freeze concentrate.

• Suitable for use in all types of vehicle requiring an MEG coolant.

PROPERTIES

• Protects for 2 years.

• Helps prevent winter freezing and summer boil over. Also improves heat transfer.

• Pure glycol formulation contains no flammable alcohol or methanol.

• NAP (Nitrite, Phosphate and Amine) free.

• Suitable for Ferrous and Aluminium engines.

• Meets BS6580 – 1992, ASTM D1384, D2750 and D4340, SAE J1034.

TYPICAL INSPECTION DATA

Appearance Clear blue liquid

Specific Gravity @ 20°C 1.123

Boiling Point Min 155 °C

Protection levels

Supercoldmaster (%) Approx. Protection (°C)

25 -11

33 -18

50 -34

DIRECTIONS FOR USE

• Dilute with water, as recommended by your vehicle handbook.

• Minor spills should be soaked up with oil absorbent granules, sand or dirt. The spillage site

should then be washed with soapy water and dried.

HANDLING

• Wash off any spillage on paintwork immediately.

• Keep away from foodstuffs and oxidising agents.

• Store in airtight container.

• Avoid galvanised containers for storage or dispensing as they will corrode and contaminate the

product.

SHELF LIFE

• 3 years from date of manufacture.

• Manufacture date can be identified from a five figure code printed on the bottle. The first three

figures indicate the consecutive day of the year, the last two figures the year.

md 14/04/2009

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/270751631638?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp5197.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D270751631638%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

dunno

looks like it went down a slip at Chatham

The main harness - it passes through a square hole in the bulkhead (to the instrument box). this hole has sharp edges (best to dress as best you can).. Also the Solihull factory used a 2" cube of firmish foam jammed in to stop harness movement at this position. To reduce the risk of chaffing of the braid & sheath PVC - this is in fact one of the best bits of protection against a burn out. Did you find one of these foam cubes ? ISTR I have never seen them on the parts lists and they are often missing. IIRC I have one safe as a sample on the garage window sill - will have a look & take a photograph.. The first time I found one - I almost threw it away !

The main bulkhead harness is the thinghy of value - the loom down the chassis for rear lighting is no big deal as standard S3 88" , I would have to check the part numbers IIRC exact same - so the plug goes straight into a L'wt main harness..

Biofuel is seriously bad news, corrosion in tanks, contamination and blockages pumps expireing prematurely... And unleaded fuel that in my motorcycles the lay up between October and April is enough to necessitate draining the tanks and putting fresh fuel in before they will start. What we buy at the pumps now is rubbish!!!:-(

===========================

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Briggs-Stratton-Fuel-Fit-Additive-Stabiliser-999005-/250753590439?pt=UK_Home_Garden_GardenPowerTools_CA&hash=item3a621424a7

These things go in circles - often before their time.

This plant was at ICI Billingham , hardly ran from 1980 - probably chopped up for scrap..

http://www.scienceandsociety.co.uk/results.asp?image=10320664

Planning permission in conservation area , or if floor area more than 30 square meters, , or height more than 4m or eaves more than 2.5m..

Building regs. only if Planning Permission needed or if in front of house building line facing a main road or floor area covering more than 50% of garden

England & Wales - basic rules..

Well - on the subject of "Toasties" - have you ever seen a in service photograph of a Royal Navy ambulance with one fitted ?

00 RN 23 ambi. conversion by Wadham Stringer , so who is to say that the rack was dedicated to 40A FFW's with rectifier. I need to do a bit of research into when the ambi. conversion was done , or did the sailors just nick one off a Royal Sig. radio truck to give it the distinctive military appearance ?

Check the seive on the bottom of the lift pipe inside the tank(s) not clogged.

The cork seal inside the change over fuel tap could have dried out and be sucking air (common after standing) , check on eBay for Fergy tractor TVO change over tap (same - manuf. by Enots).

If the pump is a genuine AC or good copy , there should be a manual lever on the underside for you to prime with - if OK then you should get a good gusher at the carb end - they don't need much to start & run LoL

Beware of the non-genuine rubbish lift pumps..

The Drg. is also titled up as "1/4 ton" , whereas as you are aware a Lightweight nomenclature was always 1/2 ton (Except for the few Rover 1 pre-pros and they were in fact rated at 1/4 ton)..

IMHO - winterization was a progressive project. The Lightweight winterization kits are complete but there is no insulation and it is not detailed on the parts schedule. A letter from C.J. Williams ISTR stated it was Plastazote insulation and not their concern , they stated they only converted some Lightweights at their Aldershot works (mine was not included on the list they had - so done by ABRO or REME).

The S3 Lightweight winterized Army,RAF & RM all had a bit of variation on the level of insulation . I just suspect that if there were winterized before Lightweights then the insulation was a bit rudimentary such as ply sheathing.

I will have to pull out all the paperwork , it is in the bottow drawer of a 3 drawer filing cabinet ISTR , however there has been a avalanche of stuff from on top of the two drawer cabinet - need a bit of time for a tidy up..

Read exactly what I typed.

LOOK at the blueprints carefully.

Due you see the outline of a Lightweight or the outline of a military S2A mark 6,8 or possibly 10 ?

As you know alloy is a good condenser & wood is warm. I have fitted 1/4" marine-ply myself in the past & have seen the odd bit of in-service linings but probably a unit or driver mod.

===============

Early winterization ??

Look at the blue-prints here - what do you identify ??

http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/Winterised.html

I would have to hunt out the makers drawings and check all the amd. dates - that would be quite definative..

-------------

Having said that - I don't ever recall having seen any form of S2A winterization - but then I only started to take a interest in RM Rovers in 1992 , so probably did but never recognised what it was all about..

I very much doubt if your toastie was tropicalized , for "T" you would avoid wood if at all possible.

I would suggest it was in fact a early "winterized" , before the use of Plastazote / Hardura..

Anybody who has driven over Shap summit at -15C in a Land Rover will probably add a 1/4" ply liner to the drivers door panel the next time. I would suggest all your tub was lined with 1/4" ply - check your doors for screw evidence too..

The problem is that it is pre-VIN , you have a chassis No.

The system changed lateish 1979

14 digit VIN went for about 1 year during 1980 - prefix LBBAH

then

17 digit - prefix SALLBBAH

----------------

Cloggies are difficult to date in the way you need - good documentary

eg. http://lightweightlandroverclub.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1266

There was probably a additional Dutch nomenclature plate - dating , missing ???

Your chassis No. is a bit far off this one..

Probably no great help , if the glass codes are all even - chances screen & door tops never changed , so you can zero in a bit..

If not messed - several photographs normally aid L'wt dating using the normal rivet counting methods - unfortunately with the Dutch modifications - this can be difficult. Probably the only dating aid is to determine if a early or a late S3 L'wt chassis.. And the year range you are aware of - it should be early type..

Get a look here for £12 + VAT

http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fshop.dingocroft.co.uk%2facatalog%2fBodyParts.html&WD=trw&PN=Clutch_Hydraulics.html%23a90569126#a90569126

You do need CI casting - alloy will smash too easy. This casting is slightly different size but IIRC the banjo bolt & reservoir fit without thread change..

You don't need to use a remote because the Sankey does not use a remote.

------------

Body 130

Pushrod 80

Bore 7/8" (with all the remote types the 7/8" is less common bore..)

Mounting centres 57mm (and they are at 6 & 12 o'clock)

Can you check your bolt centres ? Somewhere I have all this in sketches & notes..

====================

The problem is that the PMH 124 is metricated (8mm mounting bolts) , although IIRC the pipe threads are both 7/16" UNF (this is where I need all my notes)..

The PMH 124 (64068694)was always rare as a remote because the big sports cars with single line (non-servo) had long gone or been uprated..

From memory - the one used on the Sankey is just the same as the 0.875" used on such as the Jaguar Mk.10 3.8 for braking,,

This was the PMB111 (64967023) - the only difference being the flange threads are 5/16" UNF - you could just change the bolts from metric. IIRC the fluid threads remained at 7/16" UNF so no adapter required , but it would be no big deal to make up new pipe & fittings , at the very worst it is making a thread change adapter in a lathe or screw-cutting a new banjo bolt thread to suit..

The reservoir is no problem as they are available in imp. & metric but the 7/16" UNF is more common..

few years back - I worked out 2 or 3 ways at low coast but forget the best..

Yes - ISTR it was used on some Jag E types and the big Healey 3000

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320699500453&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_5540wt_1141

That is what I warned you of. The dims. could possibly be the same but for light sport cars & kit cars (at your own risk) , the cylinder casing is alloy , you need CI if you don't wish to have fragmentation..

A good motor factor should be able to order a OEM TRW/Lucas/Girling , PMH 124 or LUC PMH 124 (Lucas) , don't think the number has been S/S yet again, since TRW took over..

I think what you are getting at is that you have no wish to buy OEM at over £100.

It is only what is known as a "remote" (the fluid is piped from a reservoir normally higher up on a bulkhead of a sportscar). There will be plenty around with alloy castings and mounting holes at 6 & 12 o'clock. However for strength - you need a cast iron cylinder (a good spurious is sufficient for a trailer).

Somewhere I have a load of notes on this very subject bore dims. max. stroke , mtg. hole dia. & ctres. unfortunately just now unable to put my hands on them.

As a preview lead in -

I think this is what you need..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JAGUAR-E-TYPE-S-TYPE-MK10-420G-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-/290563316424?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a6ec5ac8

S2A Rover marks & Rover 1 with key-switch & S3 L'wt (keyless) - all had 4BA cheese-heads x 1/4" for securing tags.

I have seen L'wt copy harness - good but this one let down , wrong tags & no boot. Leaving you to make short jumper wires to convert or crop & fit tags with your old boot. You could always use a later 6-way switch with Lucar terminals..

If I understand 'boot' correct, no. But the old loom did not.

Wires for 6-way switch, insulated spade connectors, same as old loom, so will connect straight to switch.

All the large bulkhead grommets etc. are fitted in place. Only difference I have noticed so far is the panel warning light bulb holders are for a more 'modern' micro type bulb.

=================

By insulated spade connectors - I understand you mean Lucar 1/4" male spades ?

Regards the loom. Auto Sparks obviously wanted to know the year, this one 79'. Will be intresting to see if it can accomodate fog lights (not fitted) but my 80' one has. If loom has fog light wiring, I will fit as this vechicle may be my only 'car' in the future.

On a different note, 54HG12, last night checking chassis before going for undersealing etc. next week found to be quite sad in a few places :cry:. Just hope I can keep it on the road for another year before new chassis required!! and this vehicle up and running.

============

Did the loom arrive with a rubber boot behind the connections for the 6-way switch ?

Are the wires tagged with screw connectors for the 6-way switch ?

regards

A S3 Lightweight main harness (bulkhead harness) is the same part number for both 12 volt & 24 volt , there is a different part number depending on if it is for a LHD or RHD vehicle (soon converted IIRC LHD to RHD - first the normal manipulation & then extend two wires only for wiper motor). I would have to double-check on part numbers - for later L'wts '79/'80 to end of production there were a few changes on instrument panel - the harnes may have been modified but not in any big way.

You should be able to get at the clutch cover bolts through the aperture in the bell-housing but it sounds like the friction plate will also be welded with rust to the flywheel and pressure-plate. You could try blasting with penetrating fluid & crane suspending with engine down & just off the ground, if worst comes to the worst - I think you may have to sacrifice the alloy bellhousing..

This is going to be a PITA for "shelved" spares. Grumpy came up with the answer for making a once only and for ever SORN , wonder what he has for this one..