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ruxy

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Posts posted by ruxy

    British Army paint colour.

    in I may be stupid, but......

    Posted · Edited by ruxy
    speling

    Have a look at Bob Morrisons book - for actual period photographs..

     

    http://www.books-by-isbn.com/1-873564/1873564023-British-Land-Rovers-in-the-Gulf-Bob-Morrison-1-873564-02-3.html

     

    They used whatever they could get their hands on , every shade from "Light Desert Sand / Stone" to Banana yellow - YES BANANA YELLOW !! , also plenty of photographs of pink/sand tigerstripe dp .. Op Granby

     

    Op Telic would be better prepared for finishing - CARC finish Light Stone but probably others..

    Series 3 Lightweight 24v FFR Winterised

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted

    Like I said - a bit mind boggling as to early late bracket & how mounted to late bracket , take a couple of Asprin and then read the following http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?t=5382&highlight=pdwa+valve as a "Initial" aid to identification if you wish to obtain the correct valve/switch/seal kit to fit to existing pipework or overhaul a old valve. Likewise if doing a full re-pipe - then always best to keep with the design of valve for that time-line rather than ad hoc - there are good reasons , one being that you don't want a total Pick-N-Mix of tubing nut threads & SAE / DIN flaring. None of the catalogues give accurate change points of design of valve or in fact cover all the Solihull as builds.

     

    Due to metrication (cylinders stayed UNF) - best to limit the changes to a minimum, metric to UNF at the bridge pipe (as Rover did)

     

    IMG_0245.jpg

    Series 3 Lightweight 24v FFR Winterised

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted · Edited by ruxy
    speling

    FT

     

    I came across this on a TVR Vixen web page, where they say they are difficult to obtain etc??????

     

    http://www.zen11896.zen.co.uk/vixen/parts/pdwa.html

     

    As a side. If this is linked to the Brake Warning switch on the dash then am I right in assuming it is the same as a S3 88/ 109 GS??????

     

    Saying that though it is likley that they are useless also and that condition from a scrap / broken vehicle cannot be guaranteed!

     

    If this is removed then the solution would be to revert to a Civi S3 set up I guess!

     

    ===========================

     

    What you must remember is that all the way through the 1970's (until mid 1980) the civvy 88" and mil. CL 88" only had single line brakes. You could have dual line on a civvy BUT it had to be ordered and paid for from the "Optional Extras".

     

    Civilian 88" & mil. CL 88" after mid. 1980 had dual brakes as standard fitment. At this time-line the Lightweight and civvy 88" / CL 88" moved from 10" dia. front brakes to 11" dia front brakes. A 1 into 2 splitter was mounted on the front of the chassis to serve near & offside front brakes , from this point on the PDWA went from 5 port to 4 port.

    ------

     

    With a early Lightweight having 10" dia. front brakes it is better to work in the main with the civilian "Optional Parts Catalogue" RTC 9842CB March 1981, if you have good mil. L'wt parts Catalogues - then you can also cross-reference as a double check.

    The Lightweight uses a manual "Brake Test" button / Warning indicator in the centre of the instrument panel.

     

    ------

     

    With later Lightweights having "rationalized" axles having the 11" dia. drum brakes , then you use the dual line braking diagrams & parts numbers from such as RTC 9841CE June 1988 civvy parts catalogue.

     

    At this time there was a change in the bulkhead main harness for such as rear fog guard lamps. You lost the vacuum servo low vacuum switch and manual brake "Test" switch but gained automatic ignition start up brake check via. a additional FV relay..

     

    Well - that is the basic bones of it - you have to take care to identify what you have , from shape of PDWA mounting bracket early or late , and if secured with one bolt or two , and switch to top or bottom.

     

    It is a pity you did not photograph the shuttle valve & pipe runs before dismantling - or did you ??

    Series 3 Lightweight 24v FFR Winterised

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted · Edited by ruxy
    sspelling

    Valves are available but they always have been expensive. Switches for 4 port differ from 5 port (thread size IIRC) the seak kit also is different.

     

    The switch for the 4 port is 64677381 (I suspect this is Lucas Girling part |No.

     

    LV6MT9/2530-99-822-6377

     

    --------

     

    Seal kit is SP2615

     

    -----------------------------------------------

     

    The spool never moves unless there is fluid loss on one line, in theory the seal should never wear but they can deteriorate with age so best to renew seals if you re-pipe. Fluid can get line to line , and leak line to line - I know somebody who lost all brakes like this.. Also (I forget if early or late valve) one is noted for fluid getting into the part of the barrel where the centering ball is - then it is possible for the fluid to escape via. the switch threads (Unless the switch is loose) - I suppose this must be a very slow loss. Some people do away with the valve - I prefer to keep it, when bleeding - if you press the pedal too hard - then you can displace the spool, just release a nipple on the other line & a quick tap on the brake pedal gets it in centre again to take the brake failure lamp off..

    Series 3 Lightweight 24v FFR Winterised

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted

    FT the sender was on the top and the valve was fixed to the bracket via a single bolt.

     

    I guess the answer to the question of it not being the same as a civi S3 is yes, but other BL cars used it as a standard part as you suggest.

     

    For the avoidance of doubt I will take some closer / clearer pics to ensure the right advice / part is known.

     

    Thanks

     

    ========================

     

    Take an Asprin or two first,,

     

    http://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?t=5382&highlight=pdwa+valve

    Series 3 Lightweight 24v FFR Winterised

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted · Edited by ruxy
    sspelling

    I have removed this coupling from the lightweight and sender valve and wondered if it was a standard S3 item or specific to a LTWT.

     

    ============

     

    There are a few variations of the Lightweight PDWA , in fact if you are into rivet counting on the subject I once posted a few ID photographs on the Ex-MLRA , ISTR on the BLOG of the build up belonging norcoatomique . There are thread differences IIRC early is in fact metric but the later is UNF.. The much later single end cap type IIRC uses the ISO bubble flare on pipe-work but the very early / early does not..

     

    There are two early types (but you are not likely to see the very early version) , they have hex. threaded ends at both ends (easier to push the spool out) with 5 pipe ports and mounted with the switch on top of the valve. Secured to bracket with 2 bolts.

    The very early tpe was used up to about 1973. Valve Part No. 64066420 Switch 74660145

    --------

    The later type is from about 1975/76 is mounted with the switch on the same bracket but IIRC using only 1 bolt and the switch is mounted on the bottom-side. This has only one hex. machined & threaded end-cap (I would have to check - there may in fact be two versions of this valve).

    THIS SEEMS TO BE YOUR PDWA.

     

    So it is probably valve 64068853 and switch 64677381.

     

    This valve has 4 ports because there is a brass "T" splitter fitting on the inside of the front (No.2 Cross-member) - that splits fluid to near & offside front brakes..

     

    In a way the PDWA is biggest puzzle on a Lightweight to correctly identify.

     

    However - if you have a Spitfire Mk. 1V / 1500 , TR6 , Maxi, or even a Marina - you can rob one off it..

     

    The switch is probably a makers part No. (not a Rover no.) Girling ?

     

    seems dated at 4-4-1975 ,, or possibly not.

    Help - Malware!

    in Other Chatter

    Posted

    I have had them and a IT savy person can get rid of some easy. However the one that seems to be very malicious is called "Antispywaredoctor" - it is in fact a rogue antispyware application (rogueware)..

     

    Apparently the free version of Malwarebytes can sort out many.

     

    Antispywaredoctor wrecks your machine from a very early stage by what are known "redirects" , every keystroke you make it - it informs you and suggests your computer needs its treatment. Normally malware is less vicious. . It is a international crime - demanding money with menaces. In my case - to get control of my computer again - I enrolled for Spyhunter4 (from USA) , it costs £33 every 6 months , the cost may not be very clear and they add VAT although they are US based ?

    . Of course Antispywaredoctor wants you to sign up for their treatment (apparently Russian ) , I don't know how much it costs - but of course they get your card details.

     

    I Gooooogled up on "Redirects" , and they can be very common , apparently Google were challenged , they can stop it BUT they stated they were not prepared to. It is all about sales commission - if you were to buy goods via. a re-direct. What it seems to boil down with - these Search Engines you use - there is no such thing as a free lunch..

    Thompson's Water Seal spec change

    in Other Chatter

    Posted

    That is the self & same tech. data sheet that as far as I can determine is on their present web-site ,, seems the person at Thompsons who answered the enquiry does not know what they are talking about.

     

    Two years ago I emailed Ronseal (Sherwin Williams) and asked if their metal paint (similar to ICI Hammerite) contained silicone oil - they said no.. A few weeks later they contacted me again and stated in fact that it did contain silicone oil. A bit too late as I had used it , quite high in silicone oil I would say but it seems to wash off the surface after about 1 year exposure..

    Thompson's Water Seal spec change

    in Other Chatter

    Posted

    BUT - in their Tech. Data Sheet as far as I know they never ever stated it was suitable as duck proofer. They sell treatments for brick walls !! They would not suggest suitable for anything outside their control..

     

    I used to use Grangers Fabsil (fabricsilicon) on tents , then I joined a sailing club and was advised nobody used Fabsil for Lake District sunshine protection - everybody used Febsil (FEB Building Products , brick silicon sealer) , because it was the same stuff. I don't think it is in the FEB range now ?

     

    Everbuild Superseal - will be the same stuff (just had a perusal of the tech data sheet).

     

    I have used a few of this type of product on tentage duck and heavier type canvas - no problems.

     

    I have even sprayed tilts with cellulose OD paint - and it has never attacked the polyester stitching..

    Dangers of Biofuel.

    in Other Chatter

    Posted

    I try and stick to colour coded containers for lawnmower , cement mixer etc. but have made the odd error.

    I have noticed over the last few years that it can be harder to tell the difference between unleaded & DERV , pour some in a jam jar & look at it in good light - the final check for oilyness between fingers is not so easy now..

    The two fuels do seem to be getting closer - is this because petrol multi-point injection and a modern diesel fueling system have so few differences ? Or is it just a minor tech point at a light -end cracker where at one time it was quite fixed - the % diesel /kero/petrol that could be drawn off ?

    Anti-freeze

    in Lubrication, Batteries & Electrics

    Posted

    This is why they sell pre-mixed , I always use it for first fill after flushing - then only top up with neat.

     

    I once had a company car supposedly serviced at a franchise dealership and logged as AF changed at last service. Going up the incline on the A19 River Tees in heavy traffic at -10C I heard the pump start crunching ice , it boiled up before I could find a safe pull in near Middlesbrough..

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