ruxy

I think I will have to try and get a better photograph of this old B&W photograph,    pre-WW2 , I  think it may be Austin  -  has a bit of a Chummy appearance.    Can anybody give me a I.D. clue  ?

Thanks in advance.

Does anybody know the approx. year this later type BV was introduced to service   ?

Thanks in advance.

https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=44669

17 hours ago, LarryH57 said:

Of course if you make a Beverley into a holiday let, it needs all the facilities, heating lighting and flushing loo etc, plus all those health and safety features.

 

Including a Invalidlift  ground to freight & flight-deck.

Try brushing some white vinegar on for 2 or 3 days - try & keep it wet , this should dissolve the rust away. It will not harm the steel so you have nothing to loose.  Then wire brush off the black remains of rust  and rub white chalk in , then rub off the residue., it should highlight the numerals.

Many S2A & S3 Rovers had a long service life & went to auction with original engine still fitted and card ticked for Reliability Classification   Class 1    Class 2    Class 3

I can hardly agree ,  2/3 years ago a friend went to the Frankfurt Book Fair (invited by publisher of his book) , he emailed me and described how massive it was.    The real truth is that most/all serious books have a very extensive  Bibliography , primary and secondary sources - this permits legal plagiarism by way of footnotes.  Often / most often the author has done very little own research and introduced very little new material to his book.  At least the wood pulpers are kept happy.

In the grand scheme of things - most certainly (it should be considered close).

Engines are nearly always at some distance from chassis No. because of spares supply.

Over 30 years ago , before unleaded - I forgot to drain a Kawasiki generator that was infrequently used. After approx. 3 years  I drained the tank , it came out honey coloured and quite thick - I just put new petrol in and tried to start but it would not.  I found a small sedimenter bowl attached to the carburettor gummed up with the stuff, I just cleaned it out and it started and ran OK.    So - the next stage of deterioration  again about 1990 - I was similar lazy with a Honda genny , but old fuel had stood several years +   and remaining petrol had gone dry and base of the tank covered with brown granules that looked just like instant coffee.  Fortunately I was just able to get my hand in the filler cap aperture and clean it out.  It was difficult to remove (scrape off) all so aver a period of weeks I sprayed the inside with WD40 to soften it , after about three application and wipe out with a cloth - I checked the feed to carb , put petrol in and it fired up and ran OK.  With Ethanol - I would expect the water problem with aged fuel and tank to rust through.  I am now continuing to do a last run of year with a heavy dose of fuel stabilizer , I have three Bar-O-Mix and too much hassle to remove engines to invert & drain, same with lawnmowers etc. that can be drained at tap pipe to carb. tipped over easier to try & drain the carb..

40 minutes ago, john1950 said:

Packing sausage meat into the pastry

Oh !     GOT-IT  now ,  to take on the  Scottish delicacy  - 'Square sausage sandwich'  .

Northumberland is a bit cool for cider apples  ?

1 hour ago, paulob1 said:

its amazing they are the people but they have their own agendas and they actually believe they know what's best for us...they are the most dangerous of fools...

 

I have had 3 run-in with the  "Officers"  ,  Planning and Highways  (self-appointed politicians).  Sometimes you get to know the actual named person,  once in-house opinion input from the 'Highways Engineer'  - in fact just a minion I suspect , I wonder if I can extract his name with a  FOI  ?

I don't think  144801008   is a good number.

I would say a prefix  144  would be a Rover 6 - if military.  Most probably  a RHD BASIC Utility and Series 2  not  2A , from contract  KL/H/0934  /  6 , so a civvy spec. with a few bolt-ons.  Items 2 to 7 were just a few (6 qty.) Car Utility / Station Wagen - each stated with full chassis No. and it's not one of those.

I am thinking   24408108B  ,   falling in range  24407688B  to  24411244B  ,

24V  40A.     TRUCK UTILITY  88"  4x4   FFR  LHD   

Contract  WV1327   /  2       ROVER 8

-------

Obviously if advised  defo. military  &  88" or  109"    FFR or 12 volt (if any such info. known)

Royal Logistics Museum should be able to get the VRM from the chassis No.  if you have it correct.    I would suggest you contact  Geoff Fletcher  (FMW) ,  from what I have seen he can turn out a more comprehensive report for less  ££

244081008 N1/BA

N1/BA   -  means nothing to me,    prefix  244 is sound also just a suffix B is sound , however you are still one digit too many  -  probably an extra 0.

Can you double-check again.

Tub floor -  just overlay with one of these :-

https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/lightweight/rear-floor.htm

If the X members under floor need changing then you would best change them using suitable fixings (without special equipment - you can't renew the original Avdel rivets , but you can replicate .  By time the URS anchor loops are bolted down - you would just need a single pop-rivet at each corner - nobody would ever know that you had a LWT +

Also the  U alloy longerons under floor corrode badly where the pressed & galv. floor cross members go - that is best repaired with new metal Tig welded in.

I don't think it a good idea to bust the spor-welds and remove original floor - too much strength lost.

7 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

This is going to vary by climate due to heat and moisture.
 

You can remove ethanol quite simply from the fuel, if you search YouTube there are a ton of videos describing the process.

 

For me, I’d drain the petrol, run the engine until the carb is dry and coat the inside with something, or fill with a stable fuel like Avgas if you can get it.

There is so much confliction on removing the ethanol , I had been considering this just for my small engines.  Yet there is other opinion on the internet (I don't know how 'expert' those for and against) that when you remove the ethanol - you also remove other chemical additive traces and end up with a "petrol" that will do more damage than if you had let the ethanol remain.

I have Robin , Briggs & S.  + Honda with metal tanks - I normally just heavily dose at Autumn with Quicksilver stabilizer (Mercury outboards) , if I drain the metal tanks , then I leave cap off to let the petrol vap off and then just give the interior a good blast with the WD40 straw, spring - I just fill with petrol and fire up & go.

18 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

We also had LHD Landies that were used in the U.K. (continental returns?) although I don’t remember ever taking them off base.

I have Lightweights  40KC74  and  40KC88   ,  still left-hookers , both supplied  1985 to Ord. Depot Antwerp , both returned to UK  1994 to  PWO  (Prince of Wales Own)  at  York  - where they drove around until MVSL for disposal Dec.  1997    One has a double window hood ( both sides ) & one a window hood with  'glazing' only at  UK offside.  

I also have LWT   92KA58   (originally LHD)   although KA  (first year of Tri-Service)  was only RAF - sent to  RAF  Laarbruch , back to RAF Marham Supply Sqn.   1991  , disposed at  ADT  (BCA auctions ,  IIRC British Car Auctions @ Manchester).  This originally had a double side glazed hood .

If the nomenclature plate is missing  & Contract No.  :  unknown ,  then it is possible given the actual chassis No.  to zero in to the Contract No. (this tells how exactly the Rover was built up from parts (numbers).   You need to place the Chassis No. into the  Chassis No.  "Range".

You can see where a Hi/Lo plate is missing from the bulkhead - in addition this plate would have been marked with the all important chassis No.

8 hours ago, Noel7 said:

British Military Land Rovers [Taylor & Fletcher] says the first LHD military land rovers known to have been built as such were produced under 1955 contracts, probably a hardtop for a military attache, and a soft top effectively as a prototype for future orders for BAOR.

Looking at the photo, I would have expected the speedo to be on the driver's side, so could this be a conversion from RHD?

AFAIK  even in 1956 , the speedo was in same hole for RHD & LHD.

7 hours ago, David Herbert said:

Or the instrument cluster came from a RHD UK spec vehicle......

David

Very - possible , because the main shifter is  RHD cranked.

I have 2 or 3  beryllium copper combi spanners in handy sizes but hardly use them, the ring & jaw sizes are a bit clumpy in comparison to CV steel. Earlier this year I purchased a BC lump hammer 1kg with a 14" handle , absolute fraction £ of the full price, the Ebay seller had a few , by time I decided to purchase another they had all gone !     Bit harder than a Thor No.2 copper but softer than a proper builders lump hammer , handy for knocking tight brake disc off that you wish o re-use.