67burwood

1 hour ago, david1212 said:

I'm guessing you mean a house radiator not a vehicle.

As the bag 'dries' the evaporated moisture will go into the air - like drying towels on bathroom radiator or heated rail with door closed then condensation on windows.

According to the instructions you can dry on a radiator in the house but it recommends putting in the microwave for 6 minutes 🤔

3 hours ago, ltwtbarmy said:

Looking good! You’ll definitely be starting the new year with a smile once you get her back on the road. Am sure it will be a longer drive than the first one. Take care, and well done!

Many thanks, 🤞a couple of dry days and it should be ready for a longer road test. 

Ford flathead V8 recently removed from a scrap 1944 Fordson wot6, engine is seized and will need a full rebuild including liners.

open to sensible offers, cash on collection from Surrey kt10, if you have any questions please give me a call.

Seamus 07778857180

13 minutes ago, ajmac said:

Thanks to a chance encounter over Seamus's search for a WOT6 crown wheel and pinion I have picked up a WOT6 to have as a back burner project while I complete the Loyd Carrier.  Lots of knowledge crossover between the two vehicles due to the Fordson hardware used in the Loyd design.  I've started a Youtube series just like the one I occasionally update for the Loyd Carrier.  Thanks again for the info Seamus.

 

PS. I apologise for the very brief video, the next part will be a more substantial length.

Also started a facebook page as a hub for WOT6 info as I gather it.

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100088725355166

Your welcome Alastair, another wot6 saved 👍👍

2 hours ago, simon king said:

All infantry and armoured divisions would have attached REME elements.
 

It’s a case of choosing

(a) which division you want to represent. Divisional signs are readily illustrated on t’internet. This marking goes on the near side front AND rear

(b) add the REME Arm of Service square on the offside front and rear.The REME AoS square is same size as Div sign - blue over yellow over red

(c) add the unit code in white on the AoS square. In 1944 in an Armoured Division this is 99 for the Armrd Brig workshop and 100 for the Inf Brig workshop. In an Inf.  Division the numbers were 88, 89 or 90 for each of the three brigades in the division.

The other markings included speed limit, Prep for Overseas Movement number and colour bars and markings to show the state of preparation for wading ashore

Thanks for the info, all very helpful, I might look for a locally based division during ww2. 

2 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

As the WOT6 was a Machinery lorry, it would have been in service with REME, the one I was involved in restoring is shown here, with the Blue, Yellow and Red sign to denote REME and 99 over it for Workshop unit. The other sign was for 6th Guards Armoured Brigade, significant in our area as one of the first V1 flying bombs dropped on their camp and killed a large number of REME personnel.

The QL is mine, photo taken about 14 years ago.

Thanks Richard 

REME markings it is , just need to choose a division. 

2 minutes ago, Rootes75 said:

Chatting to my Brother on Boxing Day and he was saying they are storing his Jimmy outside at the moment and the condensation in the cab is awful. Mirrors your experience totally.

I have said to him about the silica bags so reading this I think he ought to try them.

Definitely worth a go, it was about £20 for 2 bags, my thinking is when one is full swap for the dry bag while the wet one dries out on the radiator. 

Rear axle progress report 

Rear axle cleaned and painted 

Torque tube and propshaft fitted

Rear axle back in place. New can of straight gear oil arrived yesterday, just need to tighten the U bolts and fill with oil, typically the weather isn’t playing ball to get it finished. 
 

Opinions and advice needed in regards to Divisional markings

I am going to order some stencils soon so I’d like a few ideas for 1944-45 markings, what’s division’s/regiments would have had a machinery truck issued during that period??

Quick update 

2 x 1 kg silica gel bags arrived on Christmas Eve 

1 bag in the truck for the last 6 days and it’s almost completely dry, there is only a small section of roof that is still damp but it’s looking good so far 👍

Looking forward to reading the progress reports 👍👍

A bit of light hearted fun, by the looks of it no one got hurt. 

2 hours ago, Mk3iain said:

Better to keep it all closed up if using silica gel, an air current will just saturate the gel for no benefit. An enclosed space is best, maybe open it up once a week or so to swap bags around.

Point taken, I’ve ordered a pair of silica gel bags so I can swap them around.

1 hour ago, wally dugan said:

Air flow is important but it is a round the vehicle if the vehicle is covered with a tarp it only makes the condensation worse because there is no air space l spent many hours learning about the problem of condensation on inside surfaces you want to see this in large aircraft wings  that are parked out side for years

The truck is currently not covered in a tarp as surprisingly the cab is fairly water tight, I have a Jeep that has a tarp over it and the canvas hood is always damp due to trapped moisture. 

43 minutes ago, 7VHU said:

A small dehumidifier can work. Dear Santa….

can be fitted with drain hose so don’t even need to empty.

Not a bad idea but I am looking for something a little more cost affective 😁

2 hours ago, Mk3iain said:

Possibly silica gel, if so it can be re-used, once dried out again.  Any supply of silica gel should work and can be dried out in the oven or just when stored in a warm dry place.

This kind of thing maybe.  2x 1kg Reusable Car Dehumidifier Condensation Moisture Damp Absorb Silica Gel 5037409111438 | eBay

If you can get industrial quantities as used in containers I am sure it would be more cost effective...

Thanks for the link, I’ll order some and see how it gets on. 
 

1 hour ago, Citroman said:

I have one of those house moisture eaters in the car. It's a lot cheeper but, ou have to empty it sometimes. But it's a small car.

Could ventilation not help? Make something that can be put on top of the door windows.

I’ve opened the windscreens to allow a bit more air flow, hopefully that and some  silica gel will make an improvement. 

3 hours ago, utt61 said:

I haven't tried them but I know that it is possible to buy giant absorbent devices for reducing condensation in shipping containers. They are designed to hang from the top lashing points. I imagine that they may help inside an MV.

👍 I’ll give that a Google and see what I can find out. 

26 minutes ago, john1950 said:

Absorbent in a spill kit can help and can be dried out. Even a tray of cat litter.

Another good suggestion, I’ll definitely look into that one. 👍

The worst area is the cab roof, as there’s no head lining it’s like a monsoon when you touch it, I’d like to insulate the roof area but it’s a difficult shape to make something that looks period and in keeping. 

This is a problem that’s been around for years,  condensation inside the cab, if you don’t have covered storage and your military vehicle lives outside like mine, what can be done to prevent massive amounts of condensation building up and potentially rotting your vehicle, I opened the door of my wot6 today and it looked like the inside had been hosed down!! It’s no wonder these old vehicles just rotted away, someone mentioned about putting a small heater bar inside the cab which isn’t a bad idea but I am looking for some more cost affect ideas if possible???

Great restoration Rob, thanks for sharing the progress throughout this thread 👍

Seamus 

If the engine isn’t turning over you need to check battery, battery connectors, earth cable, starter switch connectors, starter switch ,, starter cable and starter motor.

ignition switch and coil would come under spark related problems.

Alternator and alternator wiring would be charging problems. 

It does sound like a bad connection or faulty starter switch, it only needs a loose connection on the starter cable to be an intermittent fault, it’s annoying but it’s a process of elimination, disconnect the battery and one by one undo each cable connection, clean and reassemble as you go, if the fault reoccurs put a test light on the battery side of the starter switch to check power to the switch, if there’s power put the test light on the starter side and get some one to press the starter switch ( obviously mind fingers and hands in case it engages) if you have power the switch is ok and the fault is most likely the starter. 

😂 …. Well ….. if it’s any consolation I went to move my Jeep this evening so I could put up something outside Christmas lights and the battery was flat as a pan cake!!!!

8 minutes ago, Citroman said:

@67burwood.  A friend wanted an amp meter in his car that could also mesure the amps from the starter... he ended up in completly melting his dash...😁

Oops 😁

Not sure on checking the draw from the starter motor, I use a battery drop tester for that as it’s more heavy duty, but the multimeter is a must for general vehicle electrics. 

I use a Sealey multimeter, it’s a few year old now but it does the job, I think there about £20, there are cheaper and of course much more expensive ones but for occasional use don’t go mad, it also has an audible continuity function which is useful for checking wiring for breaks or bad connections. 

You can buy a trickle charger that can be discreetly fitted, they have a Jack plug type fitting ( properly not the correct name) so you can just plug the charger into the socket without popping the hood every time and connecting to the battery, I had one fitted to a Land Rover 110, the battery was under the seat so the plug in socket made it much easier.