67burwood

OMG!!!!! W&P have responded to an email!!!

As I have said numerous times ,with regards to your deferred ticket, this
will be honoured at the next War & Peace Show, details of which are on the
website.

Kind Regards
Jane Morgan
Accounts Department

As W&P have stopped responding to any of my emails ( no surprise there )

I have now had to resort to contacting one of the new company directors Mrs Ann Bertrand via FB, Mrs Ann Bertrand responded within 10 minutes of me messaging her confirming that she had just spoken to the office ( at 21:30 this evening 🤔 ) and that apparently all of my questions via email had been answered and I still wasn’t getting a refund 😂 

Still chipping away slowly but surely 

The dash board is now stripped sanded and painted, I’ve made a new pair of mirror arms using 10mm mild steel tube with pressed ends and cut new edge cover plates for the new lever gators  ( pictures to follow )

There’s always something to paint!! 
 

33 minutes ago, John Pearson said:

Never! Surely not? I am stunned.

I know!!! 😂 I feel it’s personal now 🤪

47 minutes ago, Jack said:

Has everyone had their refunds?

NO!! W&P no longer respond to my emails 

19 minutes ago, Scammell4199 said:

No i don't have extended forks and I don't think lifting it with one forklift from behind would work anyway. Slinging points are difficult to find now that the floor is bolted down, thats why i thought the jib top roller and the winch drum would be good candidates.

If i lift it with a forklift under each side, it will be within about 6 inches of the tips of the forks so not much margin for error.

Would a telehandler work with slings attached to the jib top roller and winch drum? Or Hiab ?

Do you have extended forks for the fork lift? Would it be possible to support the rear body with slings from the rear and guide it on? Not sure on the counter balance 🤔

Tidy little repair 👍

1 hour ago, John Pearson said:

Has anyone a copy of the "small print"? I have been told that it says in effect "no refunds/roll overs if we cancel, no matter why we do it". Can anyone confirm or deny this? Reading/guessing between the lines for the "reason" to cancel, it seems that they are saying there was no infrastructure available to hire (toilets, showers etc???) when they started looking in February? That being the case, why not say so instead of taking bookings from April onwards. I have neither booked in nor paid but I would be mightily p!ssed off if I had! Cancellation notice says "see you in 2023". Yeh, right!!!

I’ve been asking for a 2020 dated copy of there terms and conditions but surprise surprise there’s still been no reply!!

W&P are still adamant that there not doing refunds, I deferred my 2020 tickets but like so many others I wasn’t given a choice to defer or refund the 2021 tickets, unfortunately I can’t attend the dates set this year but at least I did get a reply from W&P !!  after 20 emails 🤬
 

Unfortunately there are no refunds as the show is going ahead this year.
Sorry about your situation but we are honouring your ticket as it was
deferred and not refunded in the 12 weeks we gave to apply in 2020.

Kind Regards
Jane Morgan
Accounts Department

FRL Media group
British Shooting Show
War and Peace revival
Magazine & Media network

I feel your pain with these type of repairs 🤨😁

3 hours ago, MIKES said:

Crouch Sales have 4 on their facebook page. Just gone on there recently. Look good in the photo.

Thanks for the heads up, I’ll have a look. 

Hi everyone 

I am looking for 2 x 11.00 / 20 bar grip tyres in good road worthy condition, please PM me if you can help, I am located in Surrey. 

Thanks in advance 

Small amount of progress on the wot6, all the brakes have now been freed, cleaned and adjusted, brake pedal feels good and so does the handbrake, all the levels have now been checked and I think all the grease nipples have been found 🎉

Today I decided to work on the transfer box problem, I removed the lever and it’s clear that it’s been cut.

I found a suitable piece of steel which I cut and doubled up to match the thickness, worked out the angle and length going on Tom’s measurements and bolted it in position as a trial.

I then straightened the rod and fitted it check how much it needed to be shortened.

The rod it quite thick and needed and inch section cut out before being welded back together. Once the adjustments had been made and everything worked I welded the new bracket in place.

Had to loose one of the bell housing bolts and grind a bit off the conversion plate.

Thankfully I now have 2WD and 4WD.

Just I was starting to make progress, squatters moved in !! and made the rear chassis leg there home 🙄

Almost forgot, I am looking for 2 x 11.00 / 20 bar grip tyres, I had a very disappointing 120 mile round trip this morning to a dealer in Essex who had advertised good condition bar grips….they weren’t 🤬

Well I am going to chance my arm and ask for a refund, AGAIN!!! having been previously told in no uncertain terms that I would not be getting any refund as the dates were only proposed dates and my consumer rights had not been breached, now W&P have confirmed the dates that I can not attend let’s see what happens next !! 

Apologies for the late reply and thank you for your comments and advice. 
 

On 4/26/2022 at 7:39 AM, rog8811 said:

The easiest way I can see is to cut out the bottom section and weld an offset replacement piece, it would need a bit of maths to get it right but I would work on the principal that the lever was cut just above the original hole as a starting point.

The offset will still  clear whatever it would have hit and the rod adjustment should cater for the offset hole.

This set up is along the same lines as I was thinking, it’s not the bell housing that’s in the way it’s the conversion plate, the extended part would have to be angled at about 45 degrees to completely clear. 👍

On 4/26/2022 at 8:32 AM, Zuffen said:

I don't think you can change the pivot point on the selector lever and have it all still work as it should.

Because the bottom of the selector lever has been shortened you need to look elsewhere in the linkages to find where you can shorten another shaft/lever to compensate for the shortened selector lever.

The only place I can see is the lever that operates the drop shaft to the lever that enters the transfer case. 

If this was shortened by the appropriate amount you would end up with the correct throw on the shaft for the correct movement of the selector lever.  Plus the detents at the pivot point on that lever would still work as they were designed.

I've had a similar situation on a Nissan Patrol transfer case where I had to play around with ratios of the actuating levers to make it work how I wanted.

I agree with your comments on modifications, the knock on effect is high.

I’ve looked at shortening the lever at the transfer box and it’s not that simple, the connecting rod passes through a crossmember and would foul if lowered, also it’s not the same set up as the transfer lever end and would take quite a bit of engineering to alter but thanks for the idea. 👍

On 4/26/2022 at 8:33 AM, Richard Farrant said:

If the lever was cut off at the bottom to clear the engine flywheel housing (?), then surely the only thing to do is to to increase the movement of the lever in the cab to compensate. To do this it would mean the pawl that engages with the gate would be further forward, so the gate could easily be modified. This all depends on whether there is enough room for the lever to go further forward without touching the engine cover. A much easier solution I would have thought.

The lever has definitely been cut off to clear the conversion plate, Tom’s pictures with the flathead V8 have a mile of clearance. I had looked at altering the travel on the lever and have slightly enlarged the opening in the cover but unfortunately there’s not enough space without it hitting the engine cover or the boxed section at the rear. 👍

On 4/26/2022 at 7:13 PM, T.Watts said:

Just to confuse the matter a bit more, If it’s any help the distance from the pivot point to where the rod joins is approx 115mm.

 

Thank you Tom for the pictures and measurements, I’ve measured my lever and it’s about 25mm shorter than yours. 
 

So…it looks like the best course of action is to extend the lower part of the lever about an inch at an angle to clear the conversion plate and then I’ll have to cut down the connecting rod and re weld it as it’s already fully screwed in and straighten it to allow for the lower connection….simple 🤨🙄

Looks good, I’ve heard good reports so far. 
 

3 hours ago, Zuffen said:

I would lower the mounting point on the top lever of the transfer where the actuating rod is attached at the clevis.

Your photo has me confused.

I hope the first sentence makes more sense.

Apologies I am a little confused, do you mean change the pivot point as pictured below??

7 hours ago, Zuffen said:

Could I suggest making a fitting to engage the clevis of the top shaft (the one with the detents on it) to relocate the pivot point of the shaft lower down the shaft.

This would compensate for the shortened lever.

It wouldn't need to be irreversible and well within your talents.

Do you mean an extension attached to here?

On 4/23/2022 at 4:38 PM, David Herbert said:

Has someone cut a bit off the bottom of the lever in the cab and re-drilled it to make it clear the bell housing? that would reduce the travel of the bottom of the lever between the two positions that the detent / latch allows and could be causing this. it is the only explanation that I can think of.

David

I suspect your right David, it’s difficult to get a decent picture but it looks like cut marks to me, the rod is also bent up at one end which I think the previous owner has done to shorten the rod. 
 

So the question is….what now??

23 minutes ago, David Herbert said:

Has someone cut a bit off the bottom of the lever in the cab and re-drilled it to make it clear the bell housing? that would reduce the travel of the bottom of the lever between the two positions that the detent / latch allows and could be causing this. it is the only explanation that I can think of.

David

That’s a possibility David, I’ll take the clevis pin out tomorrow and have a better look, it is quite possible that it’s something to do with the engine conversion, there’s always a knock on affect when you convert something, the bell housing is the same as original and I know that the engine sits higher than the original V8 but the gear-lever position hasn’t been affected and you would have to drop the gearbox housing considerably if the transfer lever was longer 🤔

37 minutes ago, Pete Ashby said:

Ignore that last post of mine,

I've just re read your comments, it looks very much for what ever reason the activating rod is not long enough,  for some bizarre reason somebody hasn't chopped a portion of the adjustment thread off have they?

Pete

The rod is long enough, you can fully adjust it in and out, it’s almost like the throw on the lever is not long enough, if you set the adjustment to select 4WD then pull the lever back to engage 2 WD it won’t fully engage, so you shorten the adjustment to engage 2WD then when you move the lever back to 4WD it’s to short to engage 4WD, it’s as if the travel on the transfer lever in the cab is different to the travel on the transfer box lever, whatever the problem is I just can’t work it out ( yet ) , I don’t really need 4WD but if it’s there it would be nice if it worked. 

15 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

As your WOT6 now has a different engine, does it mean that the mounting point of the operating lever in the cab has been changed, as this could have a bearing on your problem. Never had any issues with this on the WOT6 that I worked on as it had original V8 fitted.

Yes that’s something I had looked at, there are a couple of shims under the mounting bracket so it misses a bell housing bolt but it fully engages both positions on the lever

Full operation 

WHAT AM I MISSING!!

So….I’ve been working my way through the running gear cleaning, checking, servicing etc and noticed that the truck wasn’t engaging 4 wheel drive, there’s only one adjustment which is on the connecting rod, the previous owner had this screwed fully in

Simple I through, take the rod off, unsieze it and adjust, the manual said place transfer lever in 4 wheel drive and adjust rod, which I did and happy to say 4 WD now works……but…..now I don’t have 2WD 🤔

There is only 2 positions for the transfer lever

Ok, I’ve adjusted to far, to adjust the rod you have to remove it each time and screw in or out as it can’t be adjusted in situ 🤨

I’ve removed all the linkages, cleaned and checked there working freely 

So basically I can only have 2WD and neutral or 4WD and neutral, it’s as if there’s not enough travel on the transfer lever, in the picture above you can see the positions on the transfer box which are located by a sprung load pin. 
 

Any ideas welcome, I’ve spend several hours and I am getting nowhere!! 

7 minutes ago, Pete Ashby said:

Oh nearly forgot ,  plenty of tea with chocolate biscuits that's the most important bit.

Very important part of the process  😁