67burwood

Well….Doris made it to its first public appearance but only just!! 
 

We set off Friday morning about 7:00 to join the rest of the group but out of the blue she lost power and cut out, luckily there was a bus stop and she coasted off the main road, a quick check underneath to make sure she still had all her fluids before pushing the starter button, she started no problem and we continued the journey, now I’m more worried about the 54 mile journey than ever 🤨, we continued without incident for another 10 miles until passing through Guildford on the A3 at rush hour, we were climbing the last big hill and she started to slow and eventually cut out, this is not what you want on a bank holiday Friday in rush hour 😩, she started again and we slowly made our way over the hill, for the rest of the journey I only used 3/4 throttle as each time she had cut out I was on full throttle going up hill, after a short stop at the services we arrived at Overlord just after 10:00. Following a discussion with few colleagues and the “ what was the last thing I done “ question, it turns out that the fuel tank vent isn’t working, I fitted a new fuel cap seal the day before we left, I removed the seal and she ran without incident the whole way home. 
 

19 hours ago, Smithy said:

Really great to meet you on Sunday, Seamus. 

The Fordson was looking fantastic and certainly made for the ideal arena transport for all of the group! 

Thanks for posting the picture Scott, very much appreciated 👍

Excellent work, a lot of time and effort, top marks 👍👍

1 hour ago, steviem said:

Thanks,  could this also be the source of no power. 

Can’t remember exactly how Jeeps are wired but generally the battery cable goes to one side of the starter switch, a positive feed is taken from the same side to the ignition switch, if you have no ignition light when you flick the ignition switch on and the engine doesn’t crank then there’s a bad connection at that side of the starter button, the other side of the starter button has a battery cable to the starter motor, hence bridging to two terminals is bypassing the starter switch……hope that makes sense 

1 hour ago, steviem said:

Never seen this done Chris or any idea how to do it tbh. It seems after a drive its turned off and shows no power on the ignition ligt.

This is going to be one of those really annoying intermittent faults that turns out to be a simple fix…..when you find it. When Chris says bridge the posts it literally is jamming a bar between the two connections on the foot starter switch to operate the starter, if you press the starter button and nothing happens bridge the connectors to bypass the switch, if the engine turns over then the switch is at fault.

11 hours ago, Scammell4199 said:

Congratulations on a job very well done.

Are you going on OMG 2024?

Richard

Hi Richard 

I’ve been a bit slow on the uptake for shows and trips, could you please point me in the right direction for OMG 2024 details. 
 

Regards Seamus 

That’s looking good 👍 

Have you tried these pads on the angle grinder?  Strips paint and surface rust without damaging the metal, I rate them very highly. 
 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/non-woven-preparation-wheel-115mm/606jj

9 hours ago, Pete Ashby said:

Congratulations,

This restoration blog has been a perfect show case for skill, determination and endurance.  

It's a first class example of what restoration and preservation is all about as your last set of photos bear witness to. 

What they don't show to the casual observer are the hundreds if not thousands of hours of cutting, grinding, fabrication and welding that happens before a project like yours is complete.

Pete

Thanks for your comments Pete, I might take a bit of a break this summer and enjoy the shows before I start the next project 👍👍

Does anyone have a double Jerry can holder for sale to match the one in the pictures ? If you do and your happy to sell please let me know.

Doris has made her first official appearance at our MVT camping weekend, it was slow but sure and bloody noisy 😂  fully dressed with her insignia, just the hoops and canvas to finish, next stop “ Overlord “ it’s only 54 miles so I’ll be leaving soon 🤨

Another little job ticked off the list 😁

I had a local glass company cut flat laminated glass for my wot6 

Leatherhead glass

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjq1dXO0qn-AhUKXcAKHU86D4sQFnoECAkQAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.leatherheadglass.co.uk%2F&usg=AOvVaw1ndvlrbFw8uuHBZAbrdtKs

9 hours ago, cosrec said:

10 ton @ say £200  sounds cheap but alas lots of people think its a good investment but how many will put money where their mouth is.

Economically it’s definitely not a good invest but that’s not why we own and preserve these vehicles, we do it because we clearly have a screw loose !! 😂 if it were easy everyone would do it….

13 hours ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

I thought it was longer than 3 years, but then, I am old and get confused easily.  You've done a damn fine job with her, mate, well done.  What are the local shows you are doing, be nice to come along and have a good look at her?

Thanks Rob. It’s first official outing is our local MVT camping weekend in oxshott on the 29th which your welcome to pop up and have a look, fingers crossed a new batch of paint gets delivered this week so I can finish the painting and get the stencil’s done, I’ll double check the events calendar but I’m sure there was something else before Overlord, it’s also booked into Capel.

1 hour ago, Smithy said:

And it has been wonderful to follow this thread over those last three years - really great work! I must admit that whenever I spotted there had been a new post on your thread I always looked forward to seeing what it was. 

Hopefully I get to see it in person at a show this summer. 

Many thanks for your comments, I’ve got a couple of local shows and then it’s booked into the overlord show 🤞

🤔 next project…..or…..Possible divorce 🤨……tempting!!

Bit of advice needed please….the wot6 will have REME markings, is there any specific colours fir the blue, yellow and red, finish in gloss, satin, Matt etc….??

Read the same article, can’t believe it’s gone unnoticed for so long!! 

40 minutes ago, Rootes75 said:

I think it looks superb, followed you throughout the restoration.

It's a shame we live so far apart, we'll have our Commer finished in the next couple months and would be lovely to get together with some members and our newly restored trucks..

That could be a new show for the calendar 😁

The timber work is almost finished 🍻🎉🍻 

I started this restoration blog 3 years ago yesterday, virtually every weekend, days off work and evenings something has been done to this wot6, it certainly isn’t a business model for making money 😁 done purely for the love of restoration and preserving history for the next generation.

I genuinely didn’t think it would take anywhere near this long, when I first started a family member said “ how long is it going to take, a year ? “
I laughed and said “ 6 months “ , how wrong was I !! But I’ve learned so much about fabrication, welding and paint spraying and if I wasn’t sure how to tackle a job members of this forum were always ready help and advise, I’d to thank everyone who has advised and supported this restoration over the last 3 years, it’s been very much appreciated 👍👍

Now we’re in the closing stages of this project, everything has so far gone to plan apart from a slight paint mixing issue but fingers crossed 🤞 a new paint mix to match the last batch should arrive next week, the last of the timber work has been fitted, the tailgate needs some minor adjustments and the drop down steps need fitting, other than that the hoops need cleaning and painting along with the tool boxes and rear mud guards.

Almost forgot, I’ve still got to make double Jerry can holders to mounts behind the rear mud guards.  

11 hours ago, Rootes75 said:

We are back trying between other jobs to get the Commer running properly. We have checked the manifold for leaks when she is running (she still only runs on full choke), we used oil round the manifold and then inspected for any bubbles, there none.

There is no drain under the manifold like on similar Humbers but we did check.

Next I loosened off the exhaust down pipe and when it was off I checked the gasket. To my surprise the gasket was pretty clean apart from around the most unaccessible stud. Around this fixing hole could be seen lots of black soot, quite obvious that its escaping around this point and the gasket isn't sealing properly. 

Well, I have some new brass nuts and have wire brushed off the studs as best I can. I will re-fit it all on Saturday and hopefully that will make a difference. I may even use some gasket sealer just to go belt and braces on the fix?

Have you tried spraying brake cleaner around the inlet manifold and carb gasket? If the manifold is leaking it will draw in the brake cleaner and the engine idle will change, you won’t get air leaking out, it should only suck in. 

5 hours ago, 10FM68 said:

Nope, you're absolutely correct: formation sign on nearside and AOS sign on offside just as you have it.

Many thanks for confirming that, for some reason I thought the previous owner had them the opposite way round on the rear of the wot6. 

Quick question regarding location of vehicle markings for the wot6?? 
 

the question is generally about the rear of the vehicle, on my Jeep the markings are as shown below 

Division marking on the right and unit markings on the left but on the rear I've put division markings on the left and unit on the right.

The more I look at it the more I think it’s not right and I don’t want to make the same possible mistake on the wot6 , I know the front is correct but can anyone confirm the rear location…..ie do they need to be swapped over???

Really starting to come together now Jon, attention to detail is spot on as usual 👍👍

6 hours ago, ruxy said:

fwiw   -   many years before you could go to a chandler,ironmonger or B&Q  for a gallon can of  Cuprinol / Rentokill 5 star or whatever  -  the traditional boatyard wood preserver used for 'holding' prior to application of varnish or paint was quite simply  -  paraffin mixed with linseed oil  (boiled I think).  I can tell you that Redwood (let's say Scotch Pine , but originatning from Scandinavia & Russia + some .  Baltic)  graded as 'unsorted'   (fourths)  is one of the best for standing up against the British climate ,  far better than most hardwoods (broad - leaf) .  In fact some hardwoods used for carver/clinker construction were OK in fresh-water - BUT only for several weeks between dragging ashore to dry out.  Sea-water (brine)  is used as a cheap preservative on timber imported for pallets , Atlantic pine grown in portugal , it quickly grows to a good SHORT height , but has a good dia.

 

All advice is appreciated and everyday is a learning curve.