67burwood

1 hour ago, Motleyholt said:

Pressure or vacuum? Vacumn would be fairly normal for old breathers with a valve/ball bearing in. Pressure can escape but water can't get in. Net result slight vacumn when cold.

Cold axle and now you mention it it could have been vacuum, I just remember undoing the level plug and hearing a very slight noise, I’ll pay more attention when I check the rear. 

8 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

Sorry, you have got me there, I cannot remember now, must have been about 15 years ago. I don't have a manual either.

Richard

No worries, I picked up a workshop manual recently but haven’t had a chance to read through it yet, I checked the front diff oil level last weekend and there was some pressure build up but no obvious breather, I’ll refer to the manual to see what I can find. 
 

Seamus 

21 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

On the WOT6 that I was involved in restoring, I rewired it myself and it is quite a simple system. When you put the wiring to the rear of the vehicle, just use trailer cable and that will suit all your needs. The instrument panel is dead easy to access.

regards, Richard

Hi Richard

quick question, do you remember if the wot6 you worked on had axle breathers ? I can’t find anything obvious on mine.

Seamus

4 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

wheel nuts as requested, 3 left and 3 right. I can have more parts if you need any. The rear brake linkage is mostly there.

Many thanks Martin, I’ll pm you to arrange p&p. 
 

I’d also like to thank members of the Early Ford V8 Club UK for coming up trumps with a replacement transfer lever button. 

27 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said:

On the WOT6 that I was involved in restoring, I rewired it myself and it is quite a simple system. When you put the wiring to the rear of the vehicle, just use trailer cable and that will suit all your needs. The instrument panel is dead easy to access.

regards, Richard

Hi Richard

I have contemplated wiring it myself and may still do so but I wanted to ad a few upgrades, such as converting it to an alternator, its not running an original engine so I don't mind the upgrade, also wanted to ad indicators, hazards and possibly a hidden USB port, obviously if the truck was more original I would leave as is but as a time saver if I could find a mobile auto electrician I'd certainly be interested in getting a quote.

Regards Seamus

5 hours ago, woa2 said:

I used Autosparks for a wiring loom for my Ford WOA2. Well made of cotton covered cable, and all the colours matched the wiring diagram in the manual! Just had to correct a couple of connectors and it fell into place.

I spoke to autosparks a while ago but they were unable to help as I don’t have the original loom to use as a pattern. 

10 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

Now as it happens I know where there is an axle on half a chassis!! Would you like me to recover a few if it's still there?

If you could Martin that would be great, I’ll pm you. 

Today’s progress report…..

Now that we have a bit of extra light in the evenings I started to strip and service the front brakes, this is not a 5 minute job and the brake drums and hub assembly weigh about 30kg each!!  
 

first hub off and everything looks in fairly good order. 

There is virtually no wear on the front drums 

A good blast of brake cleaner to get rid of the nasty stuff  

The brake expanders were a bit sticky so there were striped and cleaned  

Interesting set up with 2 ball bearings and expanders  

Not a very good picture but the cable is fixed inside the housing and both ball bearings sit inside the end of the cable. Luckily both front brake cables move freely, they were greased and refitted.

With both front brakes now serviced and adjusted I started to grease the 5000+ grease nipples 🤔 ok not quite 5000 but there’s a lot….

I also started to check the levels, might as well start at the front and work my way back crossing off all the small jobs as I go, one job I noticed was the transfer lever wasn’t engaging 4 wheel drive, this should have been a fairly straight forward job!! after some time slowly adjusting the transfer rod disaster 😩 the cast alloy lever button just broke!!!!
 

If anyone has a replacement button please let me know , I also need a left hand wheel nut  

8 hours ago, Rootes75 said:

We've got on really well with the cab and painting just recently so this was a bit of a moral setback!?!?

It’s not a set back…..it’s just another challenge to overcome 🤔😁

15 hours ago, Rootes75 said:

So, we have removed all the rotten floor of the body to then find the cross members in this condition...

They are very crumbly and you can see the wood is just falling apart. There are 3 out of the 6 that are saveable.

I feel your pain !! I’ve got this to deal with 🤨

11 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

G clamp and a socket also very good at removing clevis pins if you have the space 👍 looking extremly good now, you must be pleased.

Thanks for the tip 👍 a G clamp and socket makes perfect sense.
Yes very happy with the outcome so far, it’s really starting to take shape, my daughter hand painted the number nine on the bridging plate just to make it look more authentic.

12 hours ago, 7VHU said:

But once you get it freed up and lubricated, no brake fluid or pistons to go bad and handbrake makes a good brake booster, pulling and pushing at same time. If I remember correctly, handbrake also works on all wheels.

agree, gear change is a great workout! Easy to see which gear you’re in : )

ATB

peter

From a maintenance point of view it’s perfect, keep it all lubricated and there’s nothing to go bad if it sits unused and yes I agree, driving this truck will definitely be a workout 😁

This weekend I…er..be mainly un-seizing brakes 🤔

decided to tackle the brakes and get my head around the general setup of this rod and cable system, there is a lot of moving parts

( or should be moving parts )

This is mission control 

Handbrake and rear brakes

pedal support pivot

and on top of that there’s 4 cables 🤨

every clevis pin bar 2 was rusted solid, I stupidly got impatient and mushroomed the clevis pin head 🙄

that cost me a couple of hours messing about, should have just waited for it to heat up properly 

all the main components are now in working order, next job drums off and further inspection. 

A few more bits fitted, the parts shed is starting to look a bit bare!! Thank god. 
 

If anyone can help I am looking for a mirror arm and a pair of mirror heads to match the pictures below. 
 

Always impressed with the workmanship and level of detail 👍

Evening everyone 

Some advise needed please.

1, is the any particular ww2  font/style for the bridging plate number?

2, can anyone recommend a mobile auto electrician that covers Surrey/ SW London area ? I’d like to get a new loom made for the truck, there’s no original loom available to copy.

Thanks Seamus 

14 minutes ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

Can't be long now before you get to try it. Presume you are looking forward to getting out and about with it.

Richard and Charlotte did the canvas on my Tanker, lovely people and very good at the sewing thing. 

Still quite a lot of work to do, complete rewire, rebuild rear body, service running gear, brakes and tyres !! Couple of weekends work 😁

Richard and Charlotte are also making canvas gators for the gear-lever, transfer lever and hand brake. 

4 minutes ago, Rootes75 said:

I have driven the civilian Fordson 7V, very similar gear position. I even recall now the ache in my shoulder afterwards.

It will certainly be an interesting drive 😬

8 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

Gear lever looks like fun to operate. Do you have an operation to have an extra elbow planned?🤣. Ergonomics weren't on the priority list at the time I guess.

It’s definitely not the easiest gear change,  I am considering having a crash pad made to fit on the rear bulkhead to save wacking my elbow every time you try for 2nd and 4th……or …….I could just use 1st and 3rd. 🤔

Still plodding along and chipping away at the never ending list 🤨

Jobs now completed 🍻

Throttle pedal now sorted, had to shorten the throttle lever on the manifold by 20mm to get the angle of the dangle right.

Drivers side floor pan now finished with draft excluders fitted around the pedals.

Popped down to Kent this morning to collect my new seat cushions and cupola cover all courtesy of RCH Canvas, Richard and Charlotte done a fantastic job at a very reasonable price, if you need any canvas products for British military vehicles RCH Canvas can be found on Facebook. 
 

Cupola cover is a great fit and really finishes the roof off. 
 

Seat cushions fitted, I’ve ordered some new lift dot studs for the seat frames as a couple are missing.

9 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

So you would move the cable end towards the pivot at the engine or away from the pivot at the pedal end. Or drill several holes and experiment. I prefer a longer pedal travel on old off roaders, otherwise as you bounce over the slightest bump you will get wild throttle movements. When I built hybrid Land Rovers with v8's it was essential but probably not such a big problem with the horse power you have🤣.

The horses have bolted !! Just donkeys left 😂 

from advice given it sounds like I need to shorten the throttle lever on the manifold, moving the cable isn’t really an option as it’s a complicated set up, I’ve already tried several different positions on the throttle lever but I haven’t shortened it yet, more fettling required….

9 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

Do you need more or less pedal travel? Or just a better pedal position?

I need less travel which will also better position the pedal

6 hours ago, Zuffen said:

I will admit I'm mystified by the second and third photos as to how the double hinged shaft moves the throttle cable in and out.

It’s complicated!!    The pedal and double hinged shaft are part of the original rod and lever set up that is combined with the hand throttle, the new throttle cable is connected to this which is attached to the chassis, there’s a lot of moving parts 🤨
 

Photo 6 when the cable is attached to the manifold is a bodge, I’ve cut and welded it 5 times to try different positions, as you said it’s down to crank ratios but I am struggling to work it out. 

Evening everyone 

Problem solving time 🤔

So…the problem!! …. My throttle pedal is sitting to high and has too much travel, as you know originally the wot6 would have had a flat head V8 and the throttle would have been made up of various rods and links, a previous owner fitted the current Ford 4d Diesel engine and the throttle was a bit of a hash that didn’t really work and wasn’t connected to the hand throttle, a while back I spent quite some time fitting a throttle cable and making various brackets and links to connect the hand throttle so everything worked as it should but I was never happy with the amount of travel or how steep the pedal was, I am assuming the pedal is original but it’s location on the floor was a guess as the old floor had rotted away.

There’s pictures below of the setup and I am sure there’s a simple fix for the angle of the dangle but I am stumped, any advice would be welcome. 
 

And yes before anyone says anything the floors and inside were all freshly painted last year!! It hasn’t taken long to get messy. 

Picture of my spring hanger