Richard Farrant

The wheels with the word FIRE cast on them, is it possible they were specifically for a fire engine?

Hi Rupert,

I am sending you a PM, thanks.

Rupert,

It was an assumption. I worked on some of these in Workshops, not at Storage Depots. I guess date would be build date then. Contract dates in records can often be a year or more prior to vehicles being built and not a good guide on build dates.

Have you any record on the B40GN models that were made for the Royal Navy?

Rupert,

I had several of these B40's in the early Seventies and also worked in army workshops. I am certain these plates were fitted and stamped on receipt by the RAOC Vehicle Storage Depots. So the date would be when received by the MoD.

11 hours ago, Chuckh said:

Old thread but I think I’m having the same issue.  When I attempt to start there is a click and the dash lights dim a bit. Thought maybe the batteries were low so I attached the NATO slave cable from another vehicle but got the same result.  The vehicle has been sitting for maybe a year.    

Before you get too deep into this, it may well be a problem with your vehicle batteries. By using a jump lead from another vehicle, if there is a fault on one of your vehicle batteries it will inhibit the power from your second vehicle. I have had this problem before. An easy way to check this is to disconnect the vehicle batteries by removing the connecting lead between the two to isolate them.

Don't think that Santa is the only one with problems .......your link does not work!

6 minutes ago, Quadman42 said:

Thank you for the info. Would you have the part number or accurate description of the mount, or even its military NSN

I am afraid I have not got that information. The guy to ask on the forum is Artistrifles as he got some in from Aus and may have details, try sending him a PM

There seems no evidence in the vehicle unit history of Ruxy's theory on MOULD home defence. All the units were involved with electronic warfare by the looks of it and it was in Bosnia for Op Resolute with HQ of Allied Rapid Reaction Corps.

Crikey Ferg,

You need to run away from that one as fast as you can, looks like a money pit!

8 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Hello Richard, Where is the distillery for this Champagne maker in the US?  I assume that this rig was in use on American soil.

Al

Champagne is only made in a particular region in France with the same name. There would not have been a 'distillery' in America, it would most likely have been an import arm of the business. That is assuming the photo was taken in the USA

First thing to check is the fuse!

40 minutes ago, Quadman42 said:

Thanks for this , I have emailed my cousin in Perth to see if she can find any.

no time like the present lol

Hi Quadman,

Just to narrow your search down, the mounts were found in NSW, the other side of the country. One guy was had some for sale has passed away this year but there may still be some mounts around.

53 minutes ago, 10FM68 said:

This topic cropped up a couple of years ago on this forum.  As shown above, the mount was intended for the B vehicle fleet generally and a large number of short-barrelled .5" Brownings were procured. They were put in storage but appeared pretty much for the first time for OP CORPORATE. There are a few pictures floating about of their being used on ground mounts.  The cupola ring was similar across the fleet identified by the little ball mounts. At some point the idea faded away as, for example, it was only the early batches of Bedford RLs which had them, the later ones having a simple plain cupola with no mounting.  I think someone on the forum imported some of the mounts  and passed them on to members. 

I think it was me who put Artist Rifles on the trail of the gun mounts as I had come across unissued ones in Australia on sale at an event there. I understand they were made over there but to a British design. Do not think they were ever used as they were found still crated in scrapyards. I believe the Australians would have used them on their International ACCO type trucks. Big and unwieldy things!

1 hour ago, alsfarms said:

Here is another early electric Riker technology...

I wonder what the "Moet & Chandon"  is all about?

Al

 

They are a French Champagne maker, still in existence 

11 minutes ago, fv1609 said:

This can identified by one of the two drain holes being visible from above. A drain hole is for draining moisture & needs to be on the underside of the coil with one hole facing downwards in order to drain!

The 5C10 coil is supplied with a rubber bung in each drain hole. On fitting the coil, one bung should be removed from the most dependant drain hole. With the coil positioned correctly the short screened cable from the ignition filter box can comfortably reach the SW terminal on the coil.

If the coil has been incorrectly fitted with a drain hole visible on the top, it means that the cable from the filter box cannot reach the SW terminal so instead it gets fitted to the CB terminal leaving the screened cable to the distributor getting fitted to the SW terminal.

Thus the HT instead of producing a negative spark at the sparking plugs has a positive spark. A spark jumps more readily from a relatively hot centre electrode in the plug than jump from colder electrode at the side of the plug. This anomaly means poorer engine performance.

When this anomaly is pointed out, some owners find it hard to accept & wish to leave it as it is on the basis they they feel it is running ok & besides they had the vehicle straight out of service so it must be correct.

Other owners have been bugged with poor engine performance shown by a lack of power & a propensity for the engine to conk out at certain times. On changing the coil to the correct orientation there has been improved running & reliability.

Unfortunately most variants of these coils were issued as spares with the clamp 180 degrees out of phase if the coil is to be fitted on top of the engine like this. The temptation is to fit a replacement coil directly in place without any regard for the SW & CB markings stamped on the coil. It shows a poor understanding of the workings of the ignition system if the purpose of markings are not adhered to. This is a problem of in-service mechanics as well as private owners.

Another consequence is that with time, spark erosion will mean that the rotor arm wears down (rather than gain metal) but at a rate four times faster than the erosion that the pillars inside the cap would had it been correctly fitted.

Another very obvious consequence is that the terminals within coil cover will become partially submerged giving rise to electrical breakdown & corrosion.

There is nothing new about the requirements of fitting these screened coils, there was an EMER issued in 1958 highlighting the need for correct fitting.

 

  

Good call Clive,

I experienced a coil incorrectly wired once, when the engine stopped and I subsequently found a flux like build up on the inside of the distributor cap on the brass "terminals" for the plug leads, scrapped it off, reconnected the coil correctly and good as gold after that. I did change the rotor arm as well as these deposits would have been from it.

Hi Ferg,

Interesting history and these specialised vehicles often have realively low mileage as they are not used on general runaround duties. Price is not bad either.

David, I can see you are well within your rights to self isolate over Christmas in your shed. Take a bottle of the good stuff with you to keep your spirits up!

From someone else who has just been thrust into Tier 4.

regards, Richard

Chassis number on a QL is on left side of chassis on vertical face approximately below the fuel tank ( assuming QL has tank behind the cab)

25 minutes ago, Tomo.T said:

. This was belatedly sorted out by rather unconventional means, due to the close proximity of the surrounding studs.

 

 

Hi Tomo, I use a little trick of putting a hose clip on a die for situations like this, no chance of splitting the die with this method.

Looks like the axles and front turntable may have been from a pole trailer, to carry telegraph poles or round timber maybe, then adapted to make a platform trailer.

Hi Michael,

Level is taken with dipstick screwed in,

Seasons greetings to you to!

Richard

Personally I think this is not factually true. The British Daimler company had no connection with the Daimler company in Austria as far as I am aware. The vehicle was actually designed by BSA (Birmingham Small Arms) who had bought Daimler. BSA had been producing front wheel drive cars and may have used this engineering experience in the Daimler Scout Car design. The name Dingo was never officially given to the Daimler, it was in fact the name that Alvis used for their submission for the contract. Alvis lost out on the contract and I have never heard that they collaborated with BSA/Daimler in the design.

 I have owned a Dingo for 40 years and worked on many others over that time, so have researched the subject quite thoroughly, but always like to hear anything new, but not sure on this particular story.

OK. Try removing the drag link from one end then you can ascertain if it is the steering box. Then with the front wheels off the ground, push the wheels round lock to lock to see if that is where it is tight.

I assume you have the front wheels off the ground to check? If not, I would check your tyre pressures first. Then check oil level in front swivels and steering box if not done already.

That is not a Griffon, it is a Rolls C series diesel