Richard Farrant

Hi Potless,

I think you are right about it being a 6kva now I think about it. The army did have 3.5kva Onan sets, but these bigger ones replaced the Coventry Climax unit and they were usually mounted in trailer with jerricans and batteries.

42 minutes ago, Motleyholt said:

Quick update, things didn't quite go to plan with the gearbox diaphragm. Filled the gearbox with oil and started the truck, air built up nicely no leaks from the box. After about ten minutes there is a squeaking noise, at first thought the release bearing needed some grease then the air pressure drops and the dreaded hiss from the gearbox starts again. It turns out that the plate the diaphragm presses on is turning with the layshaft and was rubbing through. I've yet to investigate as to why. Hopefully it's just jammed up with the old diaphragms.  

 

 

 

Maybe this is why the original diaphragms were destroyed? I do not have any info here for the Foden gearbox to help you on this, but feel sure someone here will know.

Hi Dave,

Onan was bought out by Cummins some time back. They have a helpline to identify Onan generators and I believe they can email you copy of manual. Try this link:

https://www.cumminsonanstore.com/howto/

3 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

Thanks Richard, a bit more practice on scrap metal required. 
 

Richard, can you remember when you restored a wot6 how the windscreen frame was attached to the roof section? None of the internal metal work is original on mine and it looks like the screen frame was patched in situ, ie I have no idea how it should go together and I will have to build as I see fit. 

I have been following your thread and luckily the one we were involved with was not as bad as yours, but there was problems with the roof at the front I think, but another chap took the roof away to repair, I worked on the lower cab and mechanicals. I have a feeling the top of the window assembly was welded to the cab roof. Will search out my photos to see if there are any clues.

22 minutes ago, Longen said:

Thanks Richard for your prompt response. I was led to believe the electric start is 24v. Can you expand on your comment "electric starter, working from the generator"

Dave.

It is about 25 years ago since I last worked on one, but you maybe right about 24v starting, but please double check first otherwise you may cause damage, I cannot remember positively, but thought it was only 12v. The starting is done by part of the generator armature wired as an electric motor in effect. I cannot recollect the model designation of this particular type as they came in service later. It look like the makers plate is missing I think it was below the suppliers plate that you showed.

regards, Richard

A 3.5kva Onan, very good sets, the army used them for many years, I have worked on a good many, but only on the engine side, we had electricians who dealt with the electrickery. Most issues were down to lack of use and stuck valves, carburettor and fuel pump. Nice thing on these was the electric starter, working from the generator.

Just realised that is the later one, the most common one were flat twin engines.

There are several points to consider. One is wire thickness, you may need to use a thinner one when doing work on these thin panel. Also the type of gas you are using, I use an Argon mix and it gives you a flatter weld. Balance of wire speed and amps is essential also gas pressure settings.. Regarding the fillet welds, I find that weave welding works well, I learnt this with gas welding 50 years ago. Then we were only taught gas and arc welding, I learnt MIG by trial and error much later, but I always remember what a welder once told me, if someone is welding with MIG it should sound like sizzling bacon and that is very true, best to do a test on some scrap if you have changed settings.

It is about 23 years since I worked on these, so cannot remember, but an old Volvo truck in the yard where I work has to have the "ignition" switch turned on to bleed through the injectors, try that.

It is like working through a letter box. A gynecologist would probably find it an easy task 🙂

I would think you could gauge the thickness of the rubber with what is left. I would not use anything thicker as it may not perform properly.

I do not recall how it worked to be honest, the vehicle was recovered to the workshop and I was detailed to fit the diaphragm and although about 35 years ago, I do remember being told to double them and that it solved the leak. I do not have any manuals on the Foden box so cannot elaborate on this. Glad to hear my advice worked though!

To reinforce the necessity to remove the build up in both the block and head, this photo shows No.6 piston from a Bedford engine. I heard this engine running and alerted the owner to a knock coming from the rear of the engine. On dismantling it was found the the piston had seized at some point and one side of the skirt had cracked and on the point of breaking away. This could easily have resulted in the rod going through the block. The cause? A very heavy build up in crud all around the No.6 bore meaning that no water was getting there and born out the the crud was actually dry at the back of the block. If you ever have to renew a leaking core plug, then clean the block out at the same time.

Hi Tony,

Here is a link to a video on Steve Shirley's collection, with the WOT1 featured:

2 hours ago, Motleyholt said:

Thanks Richard, I'll investigate that. I've already popped the easy air cylinder off and it was seized up but not the air leak culprit. The foward cylinder requires the range change housing to be removed and it's going to be tight under the body. Worst case senario I'll lift off the foward body and make life easy! 

It was 30+ years ago when I did this and can only recall the awkwardness of the job and that air was leaking into the gearbox.

32 minutes ago, rustexpert said:

Does any one know where I might source head gaskets for one of these Meadows 27.5kva generator engines? Any parts at all for the sets? Is there anyone with experience of working on these, would be prepared to give advice?

 

I have no idea about gaskets, but you could try John Walker near Nottingham, he does a lot of autojumbles and specialises in gaskets.

I worked on these years ago and you should be aware there are some head studs that go down into the pushrod chamber so you need to remove the sidecovers to get to them.

7 minutes ago, Motleyholt said:

The air is leaking into the gearbox, hi/lo/overdrive cylinders are sticking and leaking.

 

I recollect one of these coming in the workshop once with air leaking into the gearbox. There is a diaphragm in the front of the gearbox and it is accessible from the aperture in bottom of bell housing. I was told to fit two diaphragms as it was common for them to leak. Not an easy job, but better than dropping the gearbox out.

I have used a household cleaner called Cillit Bang and that works well.

OK, then if anyone wishes to change their name it will have to be done by Jack, the forum owner. He does log in often. As Moderators we do not have the facility to do this.. No idea why Mods can change their names but other members cannot.

To S.S.F. I suggest you send a Reported Message to the forum and hopefully either Jack or Joris (webmaster) will contact you and change your details for you..

regards, Richard

46 minutes ago, Nick Johns said:

the only options are to change email address and password, there is No option to change the user name

Well I can change my own user name, as well as email and password, but cannot change those of other members. Cannot see why only moderators can only change their user names. This situation cropped up last year for another member, in the end Jack was able to do this for the member, so hopefully Jack might pick this up next time he is on the forum.

20 minutes ago, S.S.F. said:

Hi all, I was wondering if it was possible to change my username to something more relevant now?

Hi .

Click on your current user name at top right hand of the page, then click on "Account settings", you will see that you can change your name there.

Richard

Hi Peakrec,

Your info on the brake system is interesting as I recall a self sealing coupling on the front bogie of the one that we had in for tidying up and repainting. Maybe there was a modification to some of them as sounds different. Going back nearly 30 years though.

I recall there were self sealing couplings for the brakes when removing the axles from the centre section

Hi Nick,

It has signs of being an ex-British Army one.

I did wonder at first glance if it was a mismatch of teeth numbers when you first posted it, due to the damage to the teeth.

5 minutes ago, Motleyholt said:

Thank you Richard,  where can these be obtained from?

Martin

You will just have to hunt around and spread the word, I suspect someone will have one, they are all loose leaf pages. I only have the AESP index for all, nothing on the limber.