alixcompo

Just got home and settled in (Monday eve) motorhome back where it lives, van back where it lives and trailer back where it lives... If only they could all be in one place (and if only the LEZ started 2 miles in the other direction) Arrived wednesday eve, no queue everyone very helpful, the ground dried out remarkabley over a couple of days. Had a fantastic time and discovered loads of stuff I never knew. And people were just breathtakingly nice. As a Beltring virgin I didn't know what to expect so it was a real culture shock for the first couple of days. This peaked when I was at a bar with the Waffen SS, a French Nun and a ww!1 policeman then turned around to find a U Boat crew behind me. I live in Essex and that doesn't happen every day..! Yeah there was some mud but to be honest it didn't make any difference to me. 2 wheel drive rules OK.!! Roll on next year, I can't wait.

Ditto from me. Last week I had given up, now I making plans for the show. Fantastic

This is a fantastic resorce. All kinds of pics and great detail http://www.stilltimecollection.co.uk/index.php

OK, so I admit it. I sneaked off work today so that I could work on the van. Part of my consciense was riddled with guilt but fortunately the part that was working on the CA felt elated. Turned out really sunny as well. So I had a lst bit of bodywork to tackle before my venture to the War & Peace show. The passenger side inner and outer sill were trashed and the removable floor panel over the battery had rusted away on its front edge. Time being of the essence I had cut everything away except for the edge of the door step. This was left for reference. I folded a simple section from 18 gauge (1.2mm) for the inner sill and drilled plug/spot weld holes.and tacked it in on the lower door runner edge then I cut a strip of 3mm sheet, drilled some spot weld holes The removable floor section over the battery had rotted away at the fron edge so I cut another section fron 3mm sheet using the original to mark holes and mounting points. Then I welded this repair onto the section I needed an outer sill on the hurry up so I took a rough overall measurement and cut a piece of 18 gauge sheet. I had a length of 100mm tube so I tacked on a strip of 1" x 1" angle iron. I folded a 1" edge on my cut sheet using the trusty bits of heavt angle in a bench vice. If you want a clean fold the bend it over using a baulk of 3 x 2" timber and a suitablt big hammer. So the pic shows this section clamper to the 'former' while it is possible to make the sil section this way it is easier to clamp the whole lot back on the vive between the heavy angle and give it the old heave ho Hold it roughly in place and mark the step edge with a felt tip. Then fold a 90 degree along that mark The place in position and carefully tack So that was this afternoon. Then I realised that it was 19.00 hrs and despite the fact that the 'Archers' were on radio 4 I quickly showered and headed up the road for a 'Ruby' (ruby murry/curry) and a few Cobra's. Conscience salved and belly full here I am ready for some Zedzzzzzzzz before sort the braking system tomorrow. G'night.................

Priceless... I wish I'd thought of that...

Bit of a crisis tonight..... Ran out of welding wire...... All was not lost. I now have a fully fitted and working pair of wipers. Bloody handy on a van that hasn't got a single piece of glass in it yet...!

And just for info in my 'Historic Commercial News' mag this month there is a pic of a very collapsed 1929 model PB Thornycroft which needs rescuing. It is in a very poor state Again probably too young but the rad looks very similar to yours. If you are interested at all I could scan the pic and post it on here

Hi, I expect that you noticed this on Ebay (item no. 300723171766) Possibly a bit modern for you at 1937..?

I try never to be an 'ist' i.e. defeatist, racist, Baptist etc etc. To this end I find that being a misery that hates everything and everyone, and who complains constantly means that no one thing (ist) ever gets a priority and thus I don't become an 'ist'. However I want to get some windscreen glass fitted and that means dealing with the inner valence section that has rotted like a swiss cheese. I've been avoiding tackling it on the theory that some inspiration would come and it would be easy. But the time has come and I still don't know. I really don't know what the section does, presumably it adds some strength. It seems to have rotted more due to being a condensation trap than any water ingress. It is also a bit that never got painted originally. They had men spraying the shells in those days. None of this 10 stage dipping or what-ever it is they do now. Although it looks very simple to reproduce , it curves and has a rolled bead on one edge that can't be reproduced in a vice between two bits of heavy angle iron and a lump hammer. I can ask Santa for a Bead Roller but that don't get the job done now..... So.. In order to retain the shape and integrity of the section I opted to keep the top edge, however rusty it might be and weld in as much good new steel as I could to make it all rigid. I don't know if this counts as a bodge but as I haven't got a clue as to what to do and I aint gonna pay no other bugger (I'm a bit precious about doing this restoration myself) I'll just put it down as a temporary quick fix. So; First job, cut out one half as low to the screen as poss to get as much rotten metal out as possible. At this point I discovered that there is a rolled edge where I was cutting.! Hey too late now...... I only took half out so that I had reference points on what was left. I cut a strip of new sheet 3 feet long and 4 1/2" wide. To get the curved edge I drew a reference line about 25mm (see I can do metric as well) Then I beat this edge over a bit of 20mm tube clamped in a bench vice being very careful to select my heaviest claw hammer. Bending/rolling edges like this usually leads to a unhelpful curve along the length of the panel that needs to be straight. Before beating the hell out of it chuck your 2 indespensible length of heavy angle iron in the vice and ease a slight straight bend along the refence line. This will serve to strengthen the section enough to stop it curving. (Trust me it will all make sense if you do it.) Then it was just a case of cut away as much as I dare, fire up the welder and tack away. I know you are thinking "but you cant weld rusty metal" Don't be an 'ist' of course you can.... Just so long as it is nice thick old British steel there will be a bit of uncontaminated metal in the middle between the rust and the err... rust.. The trick is to weld into the new metal and allow the molten pool to burn any rust contamination out of the way and let the puddle flow like solder. It is a knack but a very useful one. Some people put a lump of something (metal) behind delicate area as a heat sink. It isn't always possible and I didn't. Touch the original steel will the tip of the welding wire and it will instantly burn away. And why are the hardest bits of welding always overhead.? Incidentaly when cutting out steel from sheet for repair panels I usually use and angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disc but as I have neighbours, if it is getting a bit late I go for the quieter option which is a decent pair of nibblers. As always buy the best you can afford. So my job for tomorrow night is to get that lot welded properly and I'll probably have to plate up the worst of the rusty bit thats left. It's a job I hate. And hate is a wasted emotion....... But it does get you through the day.!

OK I'm back. 2 months out of the saddle and 2 weeks to get the van drivable and convert a caravan chassis into a car trailer in time for the War & Peace military vehicle show. So it's all a bit serious now. The side windows are an on going issue, although I may have a solution by taking out 2mm all round the openeing and ordering another 14 mts of seal from a different supplier which is ever so slightly smaller. But meanwhile: I didn't really want to do this as it was time consuming. However I was never really going to be happy filling rust hole with sealant so I too the plunge and cut it out. The section is the top of the driver side wheel arch where it meets the bulkhead. This is the bit wot I made This is it in place And welded in Inside prior to welding; and...... No I forgot to take and inside welded pic. So then there was the drivers floor. Bit of dodgey rust. Aw shucks the grider waqs to hand so.. I had to make a wiggley bit whe the edge had rusted out on the wheelarch Cut a bit of plate from a cardboard template And weld it in.. Simples. Looks great eh? Then I welded in the mount for the throttle pedal upside down and had to cut it off (making a hole in my new floor and damaging the mount) So I didnt take a pic of that. I did a load of boring floor bits and finishing odds and ends in the drivers floor area while I had the welder running and now I'm back on the section inside the cab above the windscreens. More later

I think you can get pills for that....!

Yep bought one of them for £70, fried a £300 leisure battery charger in my motorhome and so slung it as far as possible.. Useless. Pah.

Sadley I have had no opportunity to work on the van for the last few weeks and due to other commitments won't get my hands back on it until July. Life is never fair and the meek will never inherit the Earth. Like they say, "in the real world; the hare always wins." Doesn't stop me moaning tho....!

This may be of interest http://www.dft.gov.uk/news/press-releases/dft-press-20120521a

I am just informed via another forum that after Nov' '12 pre '60's will not require an MoT. Personally I think it is daft but there you go http://www.dft.gov.uk/news/press-releases/dft-press-20120521a

Oddly enough opinion seems to be- not to have laminated in the side windows as it is more likely to crack than toughened.! Does anyone have a view on this.?

There is a cooling system sealant called 'K seal' this has been known to fix leaking head gaskets and is a favorite of the motor trade. Scary (that it might be in the used car you bought last week) but very effective.

Good point

Bit of a dilemma at the moment. I popped to 'Baines' the windscreen seal people in Kent UK last week and bought 22 metres of extrusion for my side windows.... But...... The glass I have is removed from a '58 (same year as mine) but.... The rubber it just too tight. I have the choice of removing a couple of mm around the vehicle frame of getting new glass cut... Oh poo

I have just sealed the envelope for my War & peace entry form. I will be relying on you experienced folks to gide me through the nonesense. i am assuming that beer will be available to smooth the path

It would seem that this kind of scam isn't uncommon. Yeah we are all desperate for parts and me for one should have thought that my vehicle was probably never export to the USA but I need those spares. It makes me very vulnerable if only for the sake that so many honest (genuine) people have contacted me to try and help. Take care

I guess the chance of the gaps alighning by chance are very slim. suffice to say that on 2-stroke engines the rings locate on pegs

At one place I lived I installed one of those mains intercom sets. These work via the electrical ring main. So you plug one into the mains in the house and the other down in your shed. However: there must have been someone else in my block with an identical system as after ordering and receiving life sustaining tea from my wife; another womans voice came blasting over the intercom "Do you want this bloody tea or not..?" I stopped using it after that.!

Just out of curiosity, sometimes people who are very organised and focused succum to the simplest errors. I know the piston rings look very neat all lined up, but you wouldn't ever assemble an engine with the gaps all inline now would you.!!! I remain in awe of your acheivements. You are an inspiration to the rest of us impatient souls.

Sad but true..... When I get the opportunity to work on the old van I feel like a naughty schoolboy who might get found out and his toys taken away. In my mid fifties it is just great to still be able to get so excited