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timbo

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Posts posted by timbo

  1. Glenn did tis to his scorpion over the summer, using the template Chris refers to - it was a time consuming and awkward job but not particularly difficult in technical terms.

     

    I have driven with mezzies and driven without any dampers, but never driven an Armstrong equipped vehicle. Given the relative ease with which these can now be obtained though i think it is probably well worth doing. Just make sure you have a bloody good drill..!

  2. The Odysseys are no doubt very good but I have also had some success with Varta lead acid 6TN's, 120ah and much better quality than the cheaper chinese copies. Have had these fitted in a number of my vehicles for between 2 and 3 years now and still cranking like good uns in spite of very little use, and never been charged.. Price circa £180 so double the chinese ones but half the price of the Odyssey.

  3. The gaps in the bar armour are deliberate. An RPG round either detonates away from the vehicle if the HEAT fuse strikes the armour, in which case the generated "plasma" blast is too far away to penetrate the vehicle itself, or more commonly the entire warhead catches between the bars, to be disposed of responsibly later when safe.

     

    Interesting to see H17 appear to be taking out CVR(T)2s: it means that LD took the last tranche of newly-refurbished CVR(T)s out first when they were new a few years ago (have to consult to remind me exactly when) and will be the last to use them when they hand over at the end of H16.

     

    I think the idea is also that if detonation does occur the 'jet' is disrupted because the warhead is deformed and therefore does not have its full penetrative power.

  4. Amazing that they are doing new builds 40 years after cvrt first entered service. A lot of changes though from all accounts - drivers seat and foot controls raised to reduce risk of injury for one. Seems to be mixed reception on the Scimitar 2 but must be a lot better survivability wise. Agree with Chris re the looks. Also heard the handbrakes were struggling due to the extra weight and were being swapped for stormer - easy retro fit but a lot more leverage apparently.

     

    My survivability would be significantly improved if I could just move the indicator switch...!

  5. I too have the same fwd/rev problem. Although I can't find the report from a quick google search, I recall that even in Afghanistan they've had the same problem with the various CVR(T)s out there.

     

    I did have a quick look with the front plate off, but the connection there wasn't obvious. Is there a way of checking/maintaining the fwd/rev control without major surgery?

     

    The selector rod is on top of the gearbox and works off a pivoting linkage in the hull. There really isnt much to go wrong although i guess a drop of grease/lube cannot hurt.

  6. I run a s3 lightweight and am in the process of restoring (well dismantling) a s1 86". When i first bought my lightweight i was telling my neighbour how incredibly cheap i found landrover spares to be. He just smirked and said 'thats coz there is such a high demand for them'...and he was right! Still love em to bits though ( but not as much as cvrts of course)...

  7. Having just got my Spartan moving again I lost 2 at the show in Dunchurch. It was especially annoying because I had fitted ones which all looked quite good and they were then painted in situ. I think it is more prevalent if the vehicle hasnt had much use - 9 does sound a little unlucky though. I replaced the knackered ones (looked really good mould line still present no stones stuck in them) with part worn ones (flatted off a bit odd stone doesnt look as nice) and these seem to hold together much better!

     

    I usually hold a stock of a vehicles worth (I have a few vehicles although they dont get much use and have replaced most of the really bad ones already) so if you want to 'borrow' some Mike until yours arrive just let me know..

     

    I know a couple of people who have had 5 years of shows and road runs out of a single set so I think you just need to keep going till you get good ones. They are not that expensive at the moment though and at least are easy to change..

     

    Cheers

  8. Richard

     

    Trying to get in quick before Alien gets here and monopolises the sandbag! You dont actually HAVE to have the radios in to run the intercom and in any event you dont need two 353's as this would be quite unusual. You will need either an IB2 or IB3, a commanders box and probably a couple of crew boxes, together with a 2 pin power lead, which goes to your IB 2/3. You then need the leads to put the boxes into the harness (12 pin i think) and obviously your headsets and pressels. If you get the yellow faced ANR boxes you need to make sure you get compatible headsets and pressels. The pressels should be green rather than black. I only have experience of the ANR boxes but I am told they are better than non ANR. As already stated though your best bet is to get some of the literature, have a read, and start by getting the basic intercom up and working, which can be done fairly cheaply, then you can add to it as you wish. As is my way I bought loads of everything without knowing what i needed and now have millions of cables and boxes, but inevitably not what i actually need and have become overfaced by the whole thing and put it on the backburner til I get my gearbox leak sorted.!

     

    Cheers

    Tim

  9. Bob

     

    Chris (sirhc) was doing the barrel troughs...then you just need a bit of gas pipe and a flash hider...not sure what benefit you get from a replica breech, just takes up room in the turret?

     

    I recently bought a replica gpmg to go on top of my spartan from military muckabouts (theyre on milweb). It is quite rough and ready from close up but fine from a distance and just over £300 all in so about one tenth the price of a deac and very quick turnaround. £2k seems hugely optimistic for a deac based on what ive seen! I think xfire still do them as well, a little more expensive...

     

    Cheers

    Timbo

  10. Your dash might be different but on mine the red ignition light comes on when you switch, then as the revs pick up, the regulator (big black box in front of you) goes clunk and the red light on the distribution box comes on. This shows the generator is charging so as chris says it is fine. Sometimes it will go out when the revs drop....or at least mine does...

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