Ron

Cracking on Steve! Is that field stand bent though? I see a tree out side with a forked trunk, Sometimes ideal for straigtening stuff😊 BTW this is the pre-war/war-time gearbox inspection cap in case you want to look for one? Ron

I never buy a purpose made loom.........(is there such a thing that is actually correct?) I use reasonably acurate black rubber covered cable which I buy from Lex. The wiring diagram is easy to follow and just run each wire in turn. There are only 3-4 wires going to the headlamp and the only part that is rubber sheathed are these wires from beneath the tank to the headlamp. The best stuff to use is a short length of cycle inner tube, like the thin ones used on racing bikes. I use insulating tape to hold the wires to the tank tube. Anywhere that shows I use the rubber cable ties......Or sometimes the thin ally ones as used on a 3HW.

Yep the cast or forged steel of an original should be easy to weld.........Must have had some abusive field standing!

From memory the thread in the barrel is 5/16" Whit but you'd have to check. If so I found these which are probably near enough, http://www.vintage-motorcycle.com/index.php?language=en&site=4&pid=89&id=5128&limit=180 Or Ask Brian to make you some. Ron

OK senior moment! I've edited the number! No TE is just Triumph Engineering. Ron

Well the number must be some sort of serial number.. I have the following 3SW= TE 40455. 5SW= TE 84992 3HW= TE 87312. Ron

Hi Richard. The pictures (I have another shot, slightly different angle) are actually taken at the Triumph factory. You can actually see a row of civy bikes further back. But those are indeed RAOC guys in attendance. O&M quote 300 in that contract being delivered to Chilwell at 50 per week. The second digit on the saddle is a bit fuzzy, but I agree 46 Div (Sherwood Forest Oak). I wonder how many made it back after the BEF retreat or have survived in France or ended up as a Luftwaffe step up? Ron

When I zoom in on that picture, I can see the clamp on regulator, the field stand clamp and the mudguard behind which is exactly what I have. The tyres are most likely 'Dunlop Universals' Ron

Probably a good place to look. Not many steam locos will need one. Ron

Yes the tail lamps or missing for some reason? There is a package attached to each carrier, which is probably the tool kit? That's interesting. My 3SW is also from contract C6128 but is from the first batch of numbers C72523. It had the spring clip lug but no sign of a pivot lug ground off, so I must assume it would have had a clamp. So the next part of the equation is, what part of that contract is yours from? .......Frame number? Ron

I can't pin point it, but these bikes are from contract C3360 in 1939 and clearly show the clamp (also note the 6" headlamps) and we know of 1940 bikes with and without the welded on pivot, obviously at some point in 1940. We can only narrow it down by a process of elimination and any photographs that may show it??? What contract is your bike from? Ron

Indeed Steve. I have very good engineers around me, unfortunately not getting any younger and heady for retirement😢 They are perfect copies and they did 3 pairs for me at £100 each pr, which considering the normal hourly rates of today, I thought was very reasonable. Ron

Lucas numbering can get complicated and I'm not fully conversant with them. Some of the pre-war ammeters had a BM number, and at that time in 1939 there was a period of just using civilian stuff for WD ....to modified and purpose made for WD. Unless you want to get into the research of exactly how your bike might have left the factory, which can sometimes be very difficult as although the parts might have changed, often the part numbers didn't, and it sometimes has to be done with photographic evidence, which of course are usually B&W..... Some of us have been squinting and zooming in for 20-30 years and still never know for sure. As far as the ammeter is concerned, a straight forward CZ27 which covered the whole of war-time, Lucas equipped bikes will suffice. However I know a guy who can supply or fit a dome glass for a 1939 effect if required. I have 2 or 3 with a dome glass, but I think only one that has the illumination window. Again I have 2 or 3 with a plated bezel, which would have been fazed out for economy and to speed up supply as war progressed. Otherwise most of my CZ27's have bare brass bezels as on my 3SW here. Ron

Yes Steve it's the only one I've ever seen, and now fitted to my 5SW. My engineer copied the clamp for my 3SW and a couple of mates. Ron

Nope! As Steve said, his bike has the later welded on field stand pivot. Here is my complete original field stand again....With the clamp on pivot. Ron

I've see them dearer than that😕

No they're all Lucas. You can read it on the face of the ammeter I posted. They are the pre-war version with an illumination window inside the headlamp and the headlamp reflector had a slot in it to let some light through to the ammeter window. ....I doubt that anyone was blinded by it though! Ron

Did who use Jaeger what?

Actually I think all of the headlamps you see in that shot are DU42 6" headlamps but I do have about 7 or 8 bikes with DU142 8" lamps, but it's over 30 years of collecting and restoring. Ron

PS and also a dome glass CZ27 ammeter with illumination panel inside. Ron

A 1939 bike would most likely have had a spigot drive Jaeger pattern speedo. Ron

Well considering that our WD bikes wouldn't have had registration numbers, it's just a case of whatever pleases you. I just buy number plate digit stencils from https://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/ Or you can buy waterslide numbers from Marcia at https://classictransfers.co.uk/product-category/registration-letters-numerals/ Ron

Yes you are right about the regulator Steve. 'Lead Acid' was stamped on the early war regulators to distinguish them from the previous Ni-Fe (Nickel Iron) type. As time passed and everything was fitted with lead acid batteries, the stamping was dropped. The nice thing these days is, if it doesn't work, you can gut it and fit a modern solid state regulator inside and solder the wires to your original posts, so it looks all original from the outside. I recommend these.........From heart ache experience 😕http://dynamoregulators.com/dvr2.php Ron

3 or 4 I guess. I'm probably guilty of not following the instructions to the letter by over coating too heavily........I just can't help myself....But it seems to work ok. There's less heat involved with an OHV. I've only done about 40 miles on my 5SW so far, so we'll see how it fairs with some decent mileage. It's bound to tarnish around the first bend and if it gets too bad it's only a total of about half and hour to remove and replace the system .....plus rubbing down and drying time in between. Ron

It's the same finned clamp on all three WD models and some of the pre-war models.# E1270. Ron