Ron

Thanks Adrian. I've scratched back a bit more on the number lug and sure enough there is a very faint "R" 

I see what you mean about the pedal boss. Must be a later crank fitted. My Tommy bar is drilled through. 

What does the peak refer to? I'll best compare it to my single tube bike. (which will be for sale now)  Ron

PS, I notice those support tubes on the crank housing, not fitted to the later bikes?

Clive yes the test lamp is off and on as the points open and close.

Richard I start the Tilly regularly, usually to get one of the bikes out. I don't keep much fuel in the tank whilst the Tilly is not being used, so as not to end up with stale stuff. But I put a fresh gallon in when this starting issue suddenly appeared.

A friend is going to lend me his spare 12V battery to hot wire the coil as per Grego's suggestion.  Ron

Pawel the rod is 18" (460mm) and 1/4" with 26tpi threads. Ron

Thanks for the comments chaps. Wally I replaced everthing  brand new......Except that low tension lead to the points, but it's shows live with a test lamp. Ron

Yep it is old and an easy fix that I should have done before now. Something for tomoorow while I'm waiting for the new coil to arrive. Cheers Ron

PS if you mean the HT lead. They are all brand new today. The CB lead is still the old one.

That's a good point. The starter dosen't sound laboured at all.  Ron

All of a sudden my Austin Tilly wont start. I stripped the simple carb and blew everything out, fuel pump is pumping up to the carb no problem. Seems like a very weak spark at the plugs, so I  replaced the 2 x 6v batteries (12V system)  for two brand new ones from Shield. Also replaced the dizzy cap- leads- suppressors- points- condenser- rotor-plugs and retimed the ignition. . Still spinning over but won’t start.  I tried another coil but I’ve ordered another new one to be sure. Still seems like a very week spark to me. Despite the starter spinning as if nothing is wrong. I’m wondering if indeed it is drawing too much current from the batteries. The batteries seem to drop down to 7V when cranking the starter. I'm wondering if indeed the starter is drawing too much current, despite spinning over as it always has....Any thoughts or suggestions please.  Ron

I'll check it in the morning Pawel.  Ron

Lex told me that the number is in the same place as the later bikes. So after sanding through 4 or 5 layers of paint ....#3402

Ron

I've just acquired a first pattern Parabike. Restored by it's previous owner "Peter Miller" who passed away last September.

I havn't found the frame number yet. It doesn't appear to be in the same place as the later bikes?  I've got the cables off to replace the frayed inners and I have a genuine BSA saddle to replace the current saddle. That's a piled arms pump I found many years ago.   Did these have the same transfer set as the later bikes? Ron

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Where are you booked in?  Ron

Yes it's all good fun Bob. Do you mean Normandy in June?  Ron

Whilst standing, some oil can leak down into the crankcase, especially if there is some wear to the timing side crank shaft bush which will allow the timing case to drain down. After it all returns to the tank the situation should be normal. I'd give it a good 5-10 mile run, to determine if any further action is needed.  Ron 

Now for sale if anyone is interested :-

Lots of new and correct parts added, including Original NOS canvas grips. New tyres, dynamo and carb professionally refurbished. electronic regulator and LED bulbs.

Comes with the original mudguards- pillion seat/footrests- carrier- rear stand- V5C etc £6750.  

Bloody well done Jan and very timely! I originally and erroneously fitted rubber knee grips to mine and after removing them,  they've left a mark in the paint. The bike is next on the bench to fit the original rear chainguard which came from you.....Which needs top coat paint, and I'm planning to respray the tank at the same time. 👍 Ron

Ah I see! Not post war! War time production, but not within the WD contracts. Maybe Jan will have some information on those? Were they still being produced for the civilian market or perhaps for other essentual services?  Ron

Well that's an easy project for someone to finish off. Is this your post war frame? Usually the front saddle mount would be different.

It seems that the inspector only stamped the spare engines? Ron

My Flea has it's repeat frame number stamped with no plate. I've never noticed an inspctors stamp but will take another careful  look. Ron

The plate on my ML is lubrication info.  Ron

That is the military tnspectors acceptance stamp. Absolutely WD. Each inspector had his own Identfying (3 digit) number. In your case it's miss stamped and only showing th #2....Which was quite common.

Here is the inspector  in the Welbike factory.  Later in the film that this still was taken from, you see him  stamping the frames. 

Possibly your engine was a spare engine, hence the plate. I expect Jan will know. I'll be interested to see what the plate says. Ron

It's just plain greedy. 😄😄 Ron

Good find Lex. As they say " The cost is forgotten long after the quality is felt.

Ron

Me too for a tail lamp. My Velo MAF has a repro. Ron

Bless you Chris. 👍 Ron