Vulture

Some might be appalled by that, but if used sensibly it is just fine. I think the correct use of starting fluid is more of an attitude issue

 

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I love the smell of ether in the morning, it, it smells like victory... or an engine being encouraged to start... :nut: :-D

I had a really good starting system for my 6v GMC stuff.

 

If it had been sitting for any length of time, I'd open the bonnet and squirt about 1 cubic inch of petrol from a squeezy bottle onto the centre of the air cleaner, where the butterfly nut is.

 

That would drain down and any of my GMC stuff would generally fire up first kick with about half choke, as the petrol in the bottle had fired it off far enough to get the fuel up and the carb full before it ran out.

 

My DUKW had the extra panel on the side of the dash with the knockout plug that was designed to accommodate the hand primer ( same one that was fitted to all Weasels ) That was a simple brass pump that sucked in from the fuel line inlet and squirted out through nozzles into each main brach of the inlet manifold.

 

If your battery, carb, fuel line, and electrics are good, terminals clean and tight, then a 6v system will generally fire up. The one notable exception is where it has been repeatedly jumped with 12v.

Thanks for the hint re the petrol. Its always useful to hear what has worked for other people. Occasionally I've been giving mine a squirt of Easy Start, which also seems to do the job.

Years ago!!!

Must have neen around 1985 or there abouts

Have had all sorts Bedfords, Leyalnds, Scammells now got Land Rovers

Will try to dig a picture out!!

 

The 12V option was a real last resort.................usually after the starting handle had been tried

Pictures are good

Of the vehicles you have had to date, which have you liked best ?

Fair point

Mine had a workshop body (it used to live on Houghton Hill) and the battery was in the body, if it wasnt going to start I used to use the 12V battery I had to run the lights to jump start it!!!

 

It used to start then

 

The secret I think is to make sure every thing ingnition wise is spot on and have a decent 6V battery

Any vehicle with 6V system sounds lazy, you only have to hear a Ford 7V trying to start

A cunning plan that, having the 12v as back up ! :cool2:

When did you sell your yours, and what do you have now ?

Only just caught up with this thread

The GMC I had spun at about that speed, and you do think the thing will never start!!!

 

However in your clip I would really have expected the engine to start given the time you were trying

 

The thing I found was that you had to keep the ignition system and fuel system in tip top condition to give the slow starter a chance

 

Have you tried to start it on the handle, it should really start after going over a couple of compressions

Hi Brooky

Thanks for your thoughts. Its seems that slow cranking with a 6volt system is the norm, and that my cranking speed is not too out of the ordinary. I didn't expect the engine to start, as like I say I hadn't pulled the choke out, adjusted the hand-throttle, or pumped the accelerator.

Mine is the b1 model so I have a winch right in front of where the starting handle fits. To use the handle you have to unwind the winch.... :nut:

I'm going to get some checks done on the plug leads to make sure they are not breaking down, they look pretty old it has to be said...

Kind regards

Vulture

That is a great picture !

Thanks for your thoughts guys, I'm going to attack them later this afternoon, when the engine has some shade on it. We have gone it seems in the blink of an eye from being cold and wet to being v hot !

Okay guys, here's the situation. I've sourced some new fuel hose, and a totally original in-line NOS filter (NOT) :nut:.

So I now go to the existing set-up, and then realise I've never dealt with this sort of hose retaining clip before. Sooooo, here's the NOOB :n00b: question of the week, what's the best technique for getting these off ?

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Your help as ever appreciated

Kind regards

Vulture

If would depend on the barbs on your fuel filter.

 

Using hose clamps you only need to be 'close'.

 

Most of the plastic filters I have used were 1/4in ID hose.

Okay, thanks for that.

Cheers

Vulture

The size of fuel hose you need to fit over the original steel fuel line is 8mm this is what I have used and it is a good fit so should be good for you too, are you getting much dirt in the fuel filter by the carb if not you could do away with it, presume you still have the original fuel filter down on the chassis rail by the fuel pump, they are good and filter well, as long as all the bits are in there :cool2: Could do away with the steel fuel line and connect a hose to the fuel pump then in to a after market filter then on up to the carb, this would mean the fuel filter is the otherside of the engine and away from the hot exhaust manifold.

Rich

Yes, I see your thinking re getting rid of the fuel line altogether... I shall chew on that suggestion. I could dispense with an in-line filter althogether, although for trouble-shooting I think they are a useful thing to have in place. Spotted an 8mm one on E-Bay tonight. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KIT-CAR-Inline-Fuel-Filter-CHROME-GLASS-8mm-Ends-/170532144732?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27b482065c#ht_1481wt_905

Kind regards

Vulture

Guys,

I'm away from home with work, and want to pick up some new hose, and need some help with some info please. As some of you may recall from pictures I've posted from time to time (like the one below),

the brass fuel pipe that goes from the fuel pump to the carb, has had a section taken out and a plastic in-line fuel filter fitted, right above the manifolds. The rubber is looking tired, and given the potential fire hazard I've decided not to run the truck again until I've replaced it.

I'm considering various options:

1. Replace the hose and fliter with new hose(dispensing with having a filter).

2. Replace hose and get a glass fliter (fitted in same location).

3. Replace hose and get a good quality plastic filter.(fitted in same location).

4. Do either 2 or 3, but use longer pipework, and move the filter to a different (safer) location (although not sure exactly where yet).

Anyway, the exam question is, what is the diameter of the pipe in mm please ?

Kind regards,

Vulture

Having canvassed the members, a favoured date has emerged for our second attempt to run this event. Its is now scheduled for Sunday 20th May. Fingers crossed for good weather !

We are still planning to have our run on Sunday. Forecast tonight is for it to be heavily overcast tomorrow, but dry... (fingers crossed)

Having been rapidily introduced to starting a six volt in the worst of circumstances. Vehicle sitting for about two years since starting , with a reputation of being a bit of a cow before that, and an ualterable set time table to move. I don't see the problems! After a couple of gallons of fresh fuel , a decent battery the old girl fired up a treat. I had to play the choke a bit, but I've come to the conclusion she is running rich anyway. When I got home I changed the dizzy cap, very worn, the rotor arm , equally worn, much less problem. Follwing that a bit of emery on the points , re-set and a new condensor, she is starting very easy from cold and hot. So empirically the system will work anyway despite a lot of disadvantages, but when it set up right, no diffrence from a 12 volt system.

What sort of cranking speed do you have, compared with mine ?

You know, today we'd probably pay them to let us put them together.

So true ! LOL :rotfl:

Are you sure thay aren't CKD units? Complete Knock Down was used to save shipping space. The whole lot came as box of parts, Airfix on steroids!

Sorry, yes I agree with you. They look like CKD to me. I wonder what percentage of CCKWs came across to Europe that way ?

Just stumbled across a link to this fascinating piece of film showing CCKWs being assembled from parts.

http://www.britishpathe.com/video/army-stores/query/Army+engineers

Deadline, there is one shot of the engine where I'm pretty sure the rocker cover looks shiny !

Regards to all

Vulture

That looks brilliant ! Love the Airfilter, it has some real 'bling' to it ! :-D :cool2::cool2::cool2::cool2:

So, tell all ! How does it drive ? What is the throttle response like ? Do you have any more power ? etc etc etc

Why should I need counselling, there's nothing wrong with me.......... It's all you lot that are mixed up I'm fine :nut::nut::nut::nut::nut:

:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

50% 6011, 50% 6021

What about the BS range ? Any thoughts here ? http://www.e-paint.co.uk/BS381%20Colourchart.asp?pType=&pFinish=

Okay, the question is, where can I get this paint in the UK ? Failing that, which of these RAL codes is the closest do we think ? http://scalemodeldb.com/paintcharts/ral

Vulture

might need a bulge in the bonnet though

Awesome ! :-D Can't wait to see what you come up with next :-D

Vulture

Welcome along, and what a great looking vehicle ! I want one ! :-)

Kind regards

Vulture

Dropped by the show for an hour or so yesterday morning (the need to revise for an exam getting in the way of taking my own vehicle ). The gods were smiling after the rubbish weather recently and it was dry and sunny , although perhaps a little cold. The aim of this years show is to raise money to restore the Control Tower.

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Photos can be viewed here: http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/582790117KndnBG?start=0

Kind regards to all

Vulture

Warrior, I'm envious of the nice dry facilities you have there !!! How long have you been working on the truck now ? Apart from stencils it looks about finished ?

Vulture

Welcome along Steve