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Posts posted by Vulture
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CCKW Tyre Pressures
Guys, what pressure do you run the front and back tyres at on your CCKW when it is unloaded ? Spoken to several people, and had varying answers, which range from:
1. 50lb all round.
2. 50lb on the front 45 on the back.
3. 50lb on the front 40 on the back.
4. 40lb all round.
What’s the consensus here on the HMVF ?
Kind regards to all
Vulture
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Ahhhhhh, a covert operation...Hmmmmmm, now that will be telling.Maybe a winter project coming up.........May have turned to the dark side :red: -
There is an issue of Army Motors (Sept, 42) that has a parts list of hardware. Should be pretty simple to find out what are the proper screws.
One thing I found out when I redid my M35a2 bows is that the standard length for the fillister head phillips screws were to long by about 1/2 inch. I have a local fastener place plus several industrial supplies locally and none had the proper length.. so they stick out the bottom quite far... so unless you cut them on a bandsaw your interior will be like a reverse porcupine.
I've seen the corner bow straps on e-bay quite frequently. Other than the leather strap, they are identical to whats on the M35 bows.
Remember to check your corner bows.. original WWII corner bows have the locating notch (as I call it) while post war M35/M44/M36 bows do not.
http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=627 plus I posted here about them.
Deadline
I've started downloading the Army Motors but couldn't see a Sep 42 edition....
I'll get to grips with the issue with the bows and what type I have over the coming couple of weeks, your post of the types out there looks v informative. I'm about to be distracted by a bad earth/starter issue that flared up yesterday, so the bows will now have to take a back seat for a short while...
Kind regards
Vulture
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1). Speak to Jim Clark at Allied Forces, he has sets c/w the metal lugs- great value (can you please remind him to send my jeep seat-back satchel back.....)
2) ISTR UNF - I got some stainless steel ones with suitable flat domed head off the Internet last year, I have a few left but will have to check this week for size when I find them, there may be enough for you if so can send them over.
3). Not tried sourcing these but you'll probably get some small coach bolts / square nuts from fastener stockists.
N.O.S.
Thanks for that advice, I'll give Allied Forces a call later today. If you do have some spare screws that would be great
Kind regards
Vulture
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Chaps
I have a few bits I'm after and I wondered if anyone can suggest a supplier (in the UK). My normal contact Rex Ward doesn't have any, and doesn't plan to stock any in the future.
1) A complete set of Leather straps for the bows.
2) About a dozen of the large screws that fix into the bows
3) About a dozen of the round headed bolts and nuts that keep the metal/woodwork on the seats together.
Kind regards
Vulture
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I know its probably a stupid thing to mention but you did use vacuum hose so it does not collapse when under vacuum !!!!!!
Yes, absolutely Decided to avoid the issue of taking off the hose and then having to trek round local supplies to find something suitable, so I swung by to see Rex Ward last Wednesday and he (unsurprisingly) had some that is man enough for the job Whilst I was there I also picked up some new brake bleed nipples as well.
Kind regards
Vulture
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Cubed
Did you take any photos whilst doing this ? Anything spring related makes me shudder, after a narrow escape I had with a coiled spring some years ago.
Vulture[/quote
No sorry no pics. No real dramas though just a pain to get the 2 "U" shackes out, tip is to soak the points where the threads go through the main mounting block do this several weeks before carring out any work, I used diesel and they slid out with a little help of a bottle jack under the nut to help push the U shackle upwards.
Leaf springs are not as much of a scarry thing as coils, as generally once the weight is off them there is no more tension in them. ( but always proceed with caution )
Cubed
Okay, thanks for the tips there
Picking up on a bit Roxie posted "collecting a new engine", have you been and sourced a new engine for your truck ? Tell all... :-)
Kind regards
Vulture
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Right just taken his lunch out to him and asked if he took pictures but alas no he didnt, sorry! :shocked:
No worries Roxie
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:rotfl:Your right about that N.O.S. ! :rolleyes: :-D Currently messing with the metal work in the cargo seats at the moment in the garage, prior to refitting. Top 4 jobs to do after that are (in no particular order) now the weather is getting better:
1. Check the timing.
2. Check the valve clearances.
3. Replace the 5 remaining flexible brake pipes.
4. Replace the rubber hose on the the pipe down to the hydrovac.
Keep well
Vulture
Hey N.O.S.
Accomplished one one my four missions on Thursday replacing out the hose down to the Hydrovac.
Here it is in situ
And with it removed, you can clearly see the cracking
Which on inspection is about 2/3 of the way through the pipe :shocked:
This ended up being one of the jobs where I feared it was going to be a complete pig, and in fact it was straightforward with the hose coming off relatively easy, and the replacement going on after just a small struggle
Next job, the brake hoses...
Kind regards
Vulture
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Replaced the rear spring over the weekend all went well and now sorted also we all still have all our fingers.
Centre spring mount bearings will require some attention soon. Were very lucky did not have to remove any of the torque rods or move any of the axles, jacked up truck and blocked chassis with timber, unbolted the spring shackles and removed all ok, this released the spring, unbolted and removed the centre spring plate bolt ( the on which holds all the leaves together then knocked number 4 leaf ( fourth up from the bottom ) through until the end was level with the end of leaf 5 this enabled the spring to be slid through one of the axle spring pockets ( can get leaves 1 and 2 which are in there anyway and also No3 will fit too but No4 stops so sliding it along gives enough room) and this made enough clearance for the other ends of the spring to clear the other axle pocket and so the spring could be removed, re assembly is just the reverse of the above, as they say..
Cubed
Did you take any photos whilst doing this ? Anything spring related makes me shudder, after a narrow escape I had with a coiled spring some years ago.
Vulture
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Steve
Thanks for sharing your activities and photos. All good stuff, and quite inspiring.
Kind regards
Vulture
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Welome along Doug. You should find lots to interest you on here
Kind regards
Vulture
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Yes Gents! But after 6 months and not there? Plus when did the Goverment ever make public that vehicles have to be on there? Or that the REGISTERED KEEPER is liable for an £80 fine? And you can nothing about it! I was and still am deeply unimpressed, and will be changing insurance companies.
There is nothing good about any of that, especially the £80 fine which is outrageous !
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I'm insured through Adrian Flux for my GMC 352. £120 fully comp, restricted mileage of 3,000 miles, three named drivers.
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Tony,
I had a problem with Charging as well last year. This thread might be useful for you: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?25897-Charging-problem&p=276178#post276178
Regards
Vulture
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:nono: Now, now, you've got more important things to sort out before worrying about the lub filter lipstick :-D :angel:
:rotfl:Your right about that N.O.S. ! :rolleyes: :-D Currently messing with the metal work in the cargo seats at the moment in the garage, prior to refitting. Top 4 jobs to do after that are (in no particular order) now the weather is getting better:
1. Check the timing.
2. Check the valve clearances.
3. Replace the 5 remaining flexible brake pipes.
4. Replace the rubber hose on the the pipe down to the hydrovac.
Keep well
Vulture
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I'm sure someone, somewhere has an original, pristine CCKW oil filter. Till we find it and beg for pictures I hope this will do.
Many thanks to the many people who have helped get to this point.
Ain't she pretty?
Indeed she is !
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Hi Andy
Welcome along to the forum
Kind regards
Vulture
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Here in Cambridgeshire it started raining hard about 10:00. Got petty wet walking the dog at lunchtime, then it turned to snow... HUGE flakes came down for about 2 hours. Its turned back to rain now :-|
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Awesome ! When's it being released ?
Vulture
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Spitty
Thanks for posting the latest photos and keeping us updated
Kind regards
Vulture
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Deadline, thanks for that. It doesn't feel like there is a spring there, as there is no 'sprung' feel to the primer arm at all. I'm away from home at the moment, but at the weekend I'll investigate. Kind regards VultureThe primer arm shouldn't 'stick' in the up position. If it does you need to take off the pump and take it apart. 99% of the time you have worn a notch in the pump link. If you don't have a spare then you can weld the notch in the arm up and file it smooth.[ATTACH=CONFIG]58106[/ATTACH]This is from TM9-1827A (free download from http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-1828a/index.php )Of the three pumps I have rebuilt for the jeep and CCKW all have had significant notches worn into the shaft. -
Journeyman, Cubed, Big Ray and Tony B
Cleaning round the fuel pump today and thinking about the advice given, I suddenly realised the problem :idea: was there right in front of me ! :blush::blush::blush::blush::blush::blush::blush::blush: Ahhhhh.. When I used the primer lever yesterday (prior to starting the engine for the first time), the lever stayed up.. (deep sigh) :embarrassed::embarrassed::embarrassed: which of course starved the carb of fuel !! Such a stupid mistake :n00b: !! Putting the primer lever down, when I cranked the engine over it started straight away ! :dancinggirls:
Hey ho, not a mistake I'll make again.... (I hope). :nut:
Kind regards to all
Vulture
CCKW Tyre Pressures
in American Vehicles
Posted · Edited by Vulture
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Yeah, I'm aware of the what the TM says, BUT, having put 6 new six tyres on mine just over a hundred mile ago it is obvious, I mean really obvious that at 50psi on the rears, only about 60% of the tyre is making any meaningful contact with the road. I'll post a photo when I get home. The outer part of the tyre is still shinny with a glazed surface.
Surely the tyre pressure should be set at a figure where the width of the tread footprint has an equal pressure exerted over it, to ensure the best grip, and equal wear across the surface ? I mean is this not how the tyres on a CCKW are meant to operate ? Classic symptoms of overinflation are excessive wear in the tyre centre and conversly under inflation is excessive wear on the shoulders. Are we saying here that the correct running form for an unladed CCKW running on tarmac is to prematurely wear your tyres out ?
Kind regards to all
Vulture