Jump to content

jenkinov

Members
  • Posts

    450
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by jenkinov

  1. Thanks for sharing the photo ..A rare bike but a great project ..curious can you share the frame and engine numbers ...photos if available would be great ..

    What's your initial aim. I prefer to start with The engine and it looks as if  .it looks As if you have enough to get her running a

     

    Jenkinov

     

     

     

     

  2. Thanks for the.photo .This frame number  stamp is  unfortunately  not original . Frames at this stage were all hand made and the frame numbers were added at the factory . If you compare it with other frame stamps you can see they are significantly different from this one .The paintwork has no visible under coat . curious  do you know any history on the bike . 

    As Ron suggest we probably need to look for other stamping locations  to identify the frames origin .. More photos of both  the frame and engine would allow us to give you more insight on the bikes origins 

     

    Regards 

    Jenkinov

  3. My experience.is.that motorbikes are often 're stamped on both the frames and engines .. It's therefore worthwhile sharing photos of the bike and engine and in a particular any stamping you can see .

    If genuine frame 1001 appears associated with contract c8329 this was for 110 bikes delivered between 25/11/35 and 30th March 36 ..my source is the British forces motor cycles by Steve Orchard and Chris Madden ..there is a question mark over the frame numbers so further info on your bike will be great as the authors are active in this forum 

     

    Regards Jenkinov

     

     

  4. I have looked at the triumph  TT and race bikes from 1946 but can't see any that feature this suspension but have found widely sold kits post war produced by Amen or Santee to modify bikes into a rear plunger with instructions...

    Triumphs suspension modifications followed race team modifications at such events as the TT senior . These bikes featured heavily in the magazine's of the time and whilst exciting to research i can't find this modification ....

    A second route the home engineered conversion shows the rear plunger looks very similar to plunger s made by Santee ..

     

    Jenkinov

     

  5. Hi Fred . Welcome to the. Forum great looking project .probably a great way to start and give you some inspiration is to give you some history on the bike. If you look at the seatpost you should have a frame date in the form TE0844...also ok should have a visible.frame number on the frame front prefixed TL..

    The engine will be stamped.3HE and have an engine number plus potentially a number beginning with C

    Please.share photos of these areas.as.we can use them to give you some history and possibly the number the bike would have had on its tank in the war.

    Also if you have Any history on where the bike came from that would be great.

    I would recommend taking photos of  the bike in detail before you  begin restoration and o c.f. That photo log is complete get some anti rust treatment e.g.  kurust onto any active rust and stabilise these areas ..it's always worth getting some into the frame at this early stage...

    Everyone has favourite strategies on how to restore a bike and what order to do  complete a restoration ....personally I would.start with the engine ...

    Good quality replacement parts are the challenge of any restoration ..be patient and avoid Indian components their quality can be very poor ..

    Don't be afraid to ask questions 

     

    Jenkinov

  6. It's hard to scale the bike ..but the grab handles at The rear suggest it was not a lightweight ..the rear suspension. Indicates probably post war...but the girders limit it's age ....even by the late 40s most large manufacturers triumph. Bsa.Norton matchless et c where switching to telescopic forks .... So gut feel is its a smaller manufacturer...

    Jenkinov

     

  7. Cleaning rusty  tanks can be a real issue .. The risk is the tank has been perforated by rust a common issue with motorbike petrol tanks ..the most aggressive cleaning method ..and kill or cure is to send them for an acid bath .

    This will remove all the rust but might create/reveal  pinholes in the tank ...to clean the interior count in 10/20 ball bearings add water seal rotate and clean ..you might do this 10/20 times before you stop getting scale ..it's worth keeping what do we out to give an indication of the rust damage .I would then let it dry and use kurust to stabilise the interior ..again repeat the process 3/4 times ...wait a week and repeat the kurust application again.

    Then flush it with a hose pipe .let it dry .and flush it with old fuel ..the fuel will turn black and again repeat ..(.garages often have petrol from people that have mis fuelled so you can often get this for free.)....

    Good luck

    Jenkinov

     

    • Like 1
  8. Powder monkey 52

    The Willy s MB and Ford GPWs were in service with European armies for 30 to 40 years after the end of WW2 .whilst there were huge stocks of ww2  spares  These were gradually used up and my the time of the Korean war the US army when refurbishing jeeps in Japan for Korea was fitting CJ5 engines .by the late 50s the French army had exhausted their huge spares stockpiles and applied to remanufactured the jeep under licence .The Hotchkiss 

    Whilst it followed the jeep patterns French increased the thickness of the chassis steel and made many minor improvements including converting the electrics to 12 then 24 volt ..

    The challenge when loo!ing for original parts is that only a small percentage will be genuine ww2 ..most will be remanufactured  in the intervening years ..(.but arguably ex military will be to a good standard )Then you get the spares remanufactured in the last 20 years specifically for the hobby market ..within these are excellent quality spares ..often French or American ..but there are also cheaply manufactured parts of poor quality trying to get the job but restores money ..As an example i purchased a distributor cap off eBay as an emergency reserve . The day I needed it i found it would not seat correctly and that the centre had been drilled with the wrong offset so The rotary arm hit some contacts and missed others ..total junk .

    Whilst I admire your aspiration to rebuild a jeep with original parts . My gut feel is much of what you will buy ...Will not be genuine ww2 but in fact remanufactured post war spares at best. 

    As a test ring any of the UK based jeep specialists and ask what percentage of their parts are guaranteed  ww2 spares ..

    Jenkinov

     

     

     

     

  9. Sirhc

    Fully agree . A few years back I decided to get ahead on my vehicle maintenance and replace the plug.Contacts iT leads . Distributor cap coil etc.....oil filters ...at the end i felt I had completed a thorough service and keep me going for the show season ahead .

    Well it transpired it was the worst season i had ever had .. The jeep broke down with regularity and I missed shows with regularity . I struggled to find the faulty part ....but eventually identified it was nearly all of them.

    In the end I removed all the parts i had fitted . Binned them and sourced some excellent quality parts and the jeep has run perfectly since..the new parts were a mix of french  and American manufacture

    However I did 're learn a lesson...change parts one at a time 

    Jenkinov

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Net 

     

     

  10. De-coking ..engines both car and bike was a regular maintenance routine. If you get the old service routines it's amazing how frequently this was required. I expect many  reading this comment will have no idea of de' coking but with the poorer quality fuels available in combat zones the build up of burnt fuel residues could choke an engine.

    Modern additives which operate to remove these build up in engines have nearly totally removed this as an issue .

    I agree that because of limited mileage you could probably get away without any lead replacement ..but as my engine is approaching 80 years old and I am looking forward to running at 100 years the modest amount to pay for lead replacement and give that engine some extra protection. Is worth it to me

    Jenkinov

     

  11. EBay has is uses.. But I would recommend trying to source your project by other routes.. In part that is because the prices you see currently on eBay are top end

    .. The current covid crisis complicates things but join the Military vehicle trust and look for a project amongst its members and the green sheets (club adverts) there are always unfinished  projects and pricing is at club level...

    You could also look at milweb...both the classifieds and dealers.. There are project jeeps arriving from the US regularly ....cast your net wide 

    The third option is to source a jeep yourself from the USA or Canada .. They were used like tractors on farms and turn up regularly for restoration ..

    When Brexit settles down Europe might be a further option.. People will warn you about Greek jeeps ..but I have one and it's more authentic than many i see at shows . The Greek jeeps were in military service for 30 plus years and many were converted to carry recoilless anti tank weapons ...so yes they had a hard life but had good maintenance ..

    A few options to consider 

     

    Jenkinov

     

  12. The advantage in restoring popular vehicles is that in essence every but or bolt is available.. By popular i mean ..the Morris minor..mgb. Or thankfully the jeep.

    If we concentrate on the jeep. Willyss mb or Ford gpw you can get the parts lists and over 80 percent of the jeep can be purchased new..engine blocks were always an issue but in the last few years .. Cast engines blocks are now available ....

    The challenge has always been the quality of parts..this issue is common to all classic car owners .. Which vary dramatically ....I needed a new transmission lock cable . Ordered one which looked fine . In fact a very good quality reproduction ..but when I installed it . It pulled on fine but when I tried to release it the cable kinked .a detailed examination showed the original cable wire had twice the twists or strength over the replacement. I ended up rebuilding the original unit and binning the replacement . I have purchased distributor caps . Ht leads. Contacts off eBay and literally had to throw them in the bin when they failed within hours of use.. Getting quality parts becomes your no1 priority ..or you can spend months fixing issues they create.

    Jenkinov

     

×
×
  • Create New...