thedawnpatrol

Thanks for your reply Richard In answer to you question, no, it's the oppersite, the cock is slightly recessed in the body, which would suggest I could lap it in more then ? Thing is, it's not dripping from the outlet, but from where the spindle projects wing the washer and Spring. Perhaps if I get the leaping tight the water won't get to the spindle? I will try that anyway, Thanks Jules

Hi can anyone give me some advise on the correct assembly of a standard British vehicle Rad Drain cock ? its construction is simple, but it keeps weeping from the side where the spring and split pin is. should i 'pack' it with anything ?

Very nice mate, what price are they working out at per set ? Put me down for 3 sets please

Have you tried just swapping the voltage reg for a different one mate ?

looked out for you last year Rick............... we will be there with Oxfordshire Home Guard Jules

I doubt many of us will be in a position to stand a blow a whistle at 7.30, most I expect on Thier way to work ! However that does not mean that those of us who care about such things won't stop and think about those poor chaps at 7.30 am Jules

Ian, I have several, not new but all ok. Jules

Very nice Guy my next job after the cab is the front mud guards, i think mine are slightly worse than yours were ! cheers Jules

this is a clearer shot of the original 'Z' number and Royal Signals markings which i read as ' A 12'

Hello Guy the frames come apart, on my PU they are all made of Brass, and unbolt, on some of the later windscreens you get a brass bottom rail and the rest is steel. you can see the bolts at the top corners, the bottom corners are a little harder to see and remove, there is an 'L' shape bracket inside the glass grove, the 4 countersunk screws are removed from the outside, two in the side frame and two in the bottom frame in each corner. if you have new glass made, remember to have it shaped for where the bolts go through for the windscreen wiper, it needs a slight hollow. cheers Jules

Hi Trevor, no, the brown is paint, there is a whole mixture, of Khaki Green number 3, dark brown and 'Tarmac' I had Mike Starmer look at it a while ago and he said it was very helpful and quite a valuable record of shades.

So had a good few hours on the PU this weekend and fitted the cab, this is 80% original and i have rather repaired than make new where i can get away with it, i had to make new side cab sills as the original were rotten. also test fitted the doors and parts of the floor , though i will leave the floor unfixed as there are still a few things to tidy up below. you will see that i have left the original door markings on the drivers door, and i'm going to varnish this. so, thought as the sun was shining id roll her out and take a few photos.............. Jules note also the original camo on the rear quarter panel, i'm going to replace this simple panel with new as the original is rotted at the bottom, but keep the original as an example.

I had a similar problem on my PU last weekend, not firing and fuel dumped out of air intake on carb, turned out that as I was running off an Autovac I needed a larger needle in the carb, it's fine now. Are you running an Autovac ? Check your carb jet Jules

Really good progress Guy, and looking great, I think your beating me as I am only trial fitting the cab, but I might catch you up on the rear body ! Well done great job Jules

No, it's actually the thermite that burns first"........

yes Mike, i'll be on a charge if the Brass is not shining ! the rad cap and crank handle match too ! enjoyed the sun in the garden yesterday, not mowing the lawn as i had been instructed, but playing about with the two sets of Morris PU cab floors, trying to remember which bit belonged to each and then deciding how much i want or can reuse, i want to keep her as original as possible and so use as much as i can.

Great, thanks for your positive attitude ! Sparklers, good idea................worth a try look out for the results, hopefully not on News at Ten ! Jules

I fancy I little experiment......... I have a dug up German 1kg incendiary bomb, no fuse cap and empty inside, so just the magnesium cylinder and tail fin. I have several very good complete examples, so thought about experimenting with setting this one off ! It will of course be under controlled circumstances. Reading the 'manual' it says that the priming composition is aluminium oxide ? This has to burn at 2,500 centigrade in order to ignight the Magnesium.........which it self burns at 1,300 centigrade So what I want to do is to set up a scenario where once burning we distinguish it with a scoop and bucket of sand as in 1940 While filming it. Would make an interesting film Just need to find a way of heating it to 2,500c

Result ! Thanks to Tom & Tobin I now have the fuel tank feed.

The problem was the Carb, I had a spare solex with the CS8 project so sent it to the Carbureter exchange who rebuilt it. So I thought I would bolt it on the PU and job done, little did I know, until my mate told me yesterday that it was probably not set up for an Autovac system ! As these need different jet setting ? So I found out the old original carb, quick clean, bolted on and Hay presto a running ! So there is a lesson learnt there. Plenty more adjusting to do, but really need to rig up a temporary exhaust first Jules

She Lives ! Firing for the first time in 40 years ! Tried to upload video but not possible. Now I can re fit the radiator and the front end Pictures to follow Jules

Thank you Guy, please let me know. regards Jules

Yes, i think it is the same as the passenger side. the one i need for the Drivers side has the 'push-pull' tap for the main and reserve pick up and the two pipes of different lengths in the tank. Jules

Hi Tommy good to hear from you, where abouts are you ? i'm about 3/4 of the way through my PU rebuild, i'm happy to help with what ever i can. regards Jules