Giles

I mean 'sensible':blush:

That is sesible. The pto take-off for the tipper or fuel pump on taker RL. I have a spare gear type pump which currently has twin-belt drive. I am looking forward to this little challange.:cool2:

Mike I like your thoughts on tapping in. Agree totally on getting the priorities Steering then mast then ancillary unit. I will get some pics on here when I get it and then as and when the project develops. The reason for using a Beaver is, simplicity, narrowness (working in the woods without damage as a Loadall would) speed around the place (if you can stay on) and finally I like Eager Beavers and that is probably the best reason. I hope to take it to a local vehicle show this year - Yesterday's Farming. Military kit there as well.

Oh yes as to my intended modification.... I am designing a firewood processor to mount part-time on the front. Required flow rate is 16 gallons a minute/70 ltrs which by chance, I beleive, is an EB's flow rate. It would be used when the EB is stationary and most of the 7 cylinders or motors are low flow requirement. Only 1 will require maximum flow. I notice from your handbooks the only difference I have spotted so far is the pressure the Mk1 & Mk11 run at. I have not fully decided to use the EB's system but I would need to find a way of running an external pump as and when required if I do not go down that route. Will have to wait until I have it back here and finished playing with it to start with.:cool2:

Well Mr Antar Mike, you have been very busy and extreamly helpful. I have copied all that information which will help no end.

Mike, I forgot to thank you for the hydraulic system diagram. Great help, many thanks. Do you or anyone know where I can get the glass light lenses from?

Just to upset the applecart ( should that be the affle-vagen?) - I brew my own bio from waste cooking oil and have been running my TD5 Defender on it at 100% for about 16000m now. I do add about 1 gallon per tank full during temperatures below -5. It runs smoother, quieter and I have been asked at a set of lights for 'cod & chips twice' otherwise no side effects at all. Uses same amount of fuel but so much quieter. I would not run it on new cooking oil because that encourages further production of the oil.

Was too far for me too I am sorry to say. Hope it went well and looking forward to the pictures.....

Change of plan this end. Am now hiring a bigger trailer so length is no problem. Leaving at 7am Sat morning. Contact me if any help.

Go for the Leyland Martian. Change the engine for a Perkins V8 or keep the petrol and run it on confused fuel from the fuel stations.

What - 2 people drive antars - voluntarily. I am impressed:-D Thanks for the overload warning. My digger is heavier than a EB. Tyre pressures are 90 and 3000kg capacity. 8 years old now. Be better when I get the old richardson trailer rebuilt if I can get it light enough. I am now wondering if I dare drive that distance at 25mph never mind 40:shocked:. Not sure how to insure it as no plate or docs as far as I know. And insurance company closed Saturdays. Will discuss it with them.

At this stage I do not even know if I have bought a Mk1 or Mk11. Will not know until I get there and look for the hydraulic filter housing mount. I think Antar said mounted on outside of frame is Mk1 and mounted inside is Mk11. No mudguards fitted - surprise surprise.

Mike - Thank you very much indeed for all that. It was the windiest we have had here in Somerset for 2 years so driving round Scotland (which I know well especially in bad weather) yes you must be well knackered. My trailer is 3 ton twin axle digger trailer. But to get 12'1" will mean running up over front using spreader beams from bucket support area. Since when is a Beaver comfortable to drive at 35-40:wow: and it is 90 miles:nut:. No rollcage, no lights - no hope!!!! But it is an idea. Not sure how popular I would be on the M27. Will copy the 2-4 wheel steer config down. I never remember any instructions ever on any I drove. Probably been covered in 'Deep Bronze Green'

Can you give me the exact length and width of the car. On Saturday EARLY I am taking an empty digger trailer from wincanton to Chicester. I have to be there by 11 am. I feel the bed length may be too short for the car though. 10ft by 6ft exactly.

I remember the Muck-Heap A-5000 and it's crab steering ability. It is just that asking about the valves is because when I collect the machine, there will be no-one around who is familiar with them and the trailer is 73.5 inches wide (E-B is 73") so not a lot of room for error or I will damage the trailer sides. The bed is 10 feet and I 'hope' I have calculated the the Beaver is 10ft from far end of tyre to far end of other tyre. Calculated by 100" wheelbase and fitted with 11 x 20 tyres I hope means adding 1/2 of each tyre therefore 20" =120 = 10 ft exactly. Anyone wish to correct this? Trailer sides are low - Ifor Williams maybe 1 ft.

Another thing. If I want to take a major outlet from the hydraulics after the boom and all. Where is the best place to tee into the system so as not to upset hydraulic priorities? If this is not a good move then I need to run and auxiliary pump of similar output to the Beaver's. I am not sure if there is a spare belt pulley on the crank or if there is anyway of fitting a dog-clutch to the end of the crank. I noticed the picture of the Beaver with the servo so that one must have had and extra pulley on. Has anyone any experience of either of these mods please? I may sound vague about the pulley etc but I have not collected the Beaver yet and have not driven one since the Army days 30+ years ago. Are the oil/fuel filters standard Fergie Perkins filters for that engine or specials?:nut: More questions to follow - thanks guys.

Neat little trick that would fool anyone who had not driven on before, was to set the rear steering on a bit of lock, then set the hydraulic cocks back to front steer only. Get the novice to move it, he cannot understand why the vehicle is crabbing :-D. To be honest the machine was an abortion, it needed a bit more attention to it before it was taken into service. The wings would break off with vibration, hence why a lot are missing them. The pedal box could be destructed by folding the mast back without sideshifting to the left........at least they gave us plenty of work repairing them. Richard, could you or someone remind me the uses of the 3 valves. If facing forwards i.e. back to the engine, if my memory serves me correctly, there are 2 (yellow?) valves on the left and 1 (red?) on right. In order to get 4 wheel steer, does one open both yellow and close red or? For 2 wheel steer (front) is it to close rear yellow and open front and again close red. Crab = ?