Giles

Does anyone insure just their EB? I am being told that it has to be fully comp and seems to be a lot of ££. That is the £ from Footman James.

I have been told 2 things of some use today:- 1) You cannot disolve carbon 2) Scotch Pads(I think that is their name) are very good for scrubbing away carbon. 3 grades available and especially for metal. I had never heard of them before.

At last - the broken part of the injector is out. Anyone any ideas of how I can disolve the carbon around the injector seat areas or in the cylinders even. I have injector cleaner in the fuel which should help but the injector seat area worries me. Not sure if Coka-Cola works or will damage the bore etc if/when it gets in the cylinder. Any other ideas welcome.

I never saw a Scammell with the tracks but, yes, I can well believe they would be excellant in mud - once fitted. When I was still at Ashchurch, I remember getting a Champ out of storage in fact it may have been a Gipsy. Rare either way by the mid-70's. We had a Diamond 'T' when I was at Recklinhousen(?). Went fast with no load but 'gutless wonder' when pulling anything at all. We had an AEC 6x6 Militant artic unit which I believe was modified as a towing recker. That seemed rare being an artic unit. Those pictures are so good - bring back loads of memories. Thank you for posting them:kiss:. I did my 'C' class partly on a D6 but wanted to play on a D8. None available then at Ashchurch:embarrassed:

Now trying to tighten/loosen one of the headlights. The stem is seized in the nut but as usual goes round in the headlight. The wiring choc-blok in the headlight does not wish to be removed without the screws shearing off. Joy joy:-( may have to shear the screws off and replace the choc-bloc with a new one after I have sorted out the light.

Just before we leave that sub-thread. I never heard of that expression when I was a squaddie:angel:

Guess who - go on then explain general mong - please:blush:

My EB also has OM33 (Oil mineral grade 33) stencilled on it. All the other oils still have MOD grades still stencilled. I have kept the stencilling. Will paint the remaining caps black when time and weather permit. Thanks for that. My memory and common sense play havock when it comes to obvious MOD colour coding. I left in 1979 and it makes me feel quite old until I go and play again:D

Steel wheels on the back is a good idea. Much like the front wheels on a Fordson Major being cast iron rather than wafer weights being added. Keeping it narrow is also sensible as you say for my intended uses. Wait until you see the extension ram to enable a personel cradle to give lift to 20':nut:. If all goes to plan it should be really quite safe on flat ground but there again no-one would want to be in a cradle on sideways slopes anyway.

The EB on Ebay is the one I wanted to start with but when I asked him if it was still for sale, I did not hear back from him for ages by which time I had gone for this one. My yard, thesedays, does not permit parking for any more. Much to my disgust:-(

Here is an interesting possibility. Have just been talking to a farmer and when he saw the EB had 10 stud, he suggested that one could fit super single tyres on the hubs subject to not fouling anything but giving more stability and lower ground pressure. No rush to do it as yet but it may be an idea for the future.

Can anyone tell me what colour the hydraulic tank filler is meant to be please. Diesel - yellow. Coolant - I guess blue. Hyd - ?

Explain biffs please. Mine is 05 FW 36. Starting to look the part now. All four injectors were in dire condition. None of them atomised. But the guy rang me and asked where the broken part was - still stuck in the head at the moment. I hope once I have the right thread, then with a bit of Oxy-Acet it may come out otherwise the head will have to come off. I do not want that at all.

Thank you for your troubles, Mike. Most appreciated. EB now proudly boastes first coat of Deep Bronze Green:shocked: The cam paint was coming off in lumps anyway. Never relised they had split rim Alluminium wheels though. Hence the over-inflating warning on all wheels.

Oh dear - one of the break bleed nipples has been sheared off flush with the wheel drum in the past. That may well make bleeding them very difficult.

Is there any chance that Mike or someone might have the MkII wiring diagram that could be emailed to me. Doing 'print screen' does not give enough detail on fine print. Removing the injectors today - never been removed since new judging from the paint over them. Solid rust etc just below the weather seal. One was in so tight that it snapped in half. Injector pullers did not touch it. 1 1/2" opened-ended spanner and 7' of scaffold moved it:-D Brake pipes off tomorrow.

Thank you Mike - request sent.

Well tomorrow I was taking the EB to a garage that repairs a lot of military kit to get a price for the electrics which is my weak point. Having taken the Beaver to it's first little earner, I think that the priority may well be to get the injectors serviced. Wow, once the engine starts pulling hard and gets a little warmth in it - the blue smoke is very spectacular big time!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is the best place to get the de-registration documents and anything else I need from, the address that AntarMike put up: RLC Museum at Deepcut? This must have been my old barracks before the who-ha. If so not sorry it has been closed in some respects.

I hope I have made a terporary repair now. By using a hexagional headed bolt. I filled away valleys where the flats are giving me 6 splines. Cutting off the damaged section and then drilling a hole for the bolt. Then welded it on. So far this works. Will take it out for a decent drive to test it later.

Ok Richard - that would be a useful number to have. As Mike said, because the EB came from the parts bin, the steering box came from some vehicle somewhere and maybe the steering column tip is also pre-made. When you look at the shaft, it is made in 2 sections. The frabricated section of tube from the steering wheel towards the end is one piece and the splined section has been crimped into it.

Well I do not know about you guys, but when ever I buy some new piece of kit, something always goes wrong on the first day. So it has.... The male splined shaft that goes into the hydro-static steering box from the steering wheel is worn away. The female splines in the box are fine. 13/16th's diameter at the deepest point. The shaft from the steering wheel with the male end is only 19mm diameter. It has been welded up in the past but I have no steering until I can repair this. I will go on Tuesday to try and find a high-torque bolt with that sized 12 spline head which can then be welded onto the rest of the shaft. Unless anyone just happens to have a spare steering wheel shaft with good splines, lying around:D. Just an idea. Typical though as I would have earned some money straight away with it. Best laid plans etc etc.

I have now got my very own EB. And yes to your comments about unlikey to be able to either fit 2nd pump in-line or to the pto output on the gearbox. Too little room. Seems that the most obvious so far is the testing point after the spool block under the seat. I will write down this info on the valves because I have to swap one of the existing wheel valves over as operates but will not stop turning either off or on. Still changes steering over though.

I expect that AntarMike will or has thought of something like this too? Or am I the only one who feels the need to modify everything I can, because none of it is quite how I want it - even the old British Army stuff. Not quite sure how I would modify something big though. On day, one day:angel:

Could you clarify these letters please. I can see the idea of tapping into the system at the test point after the flow devider. A straight forward access point. Another option I have just thought about - Richard, I wonder about coupling a second pump onto the back plate of the existing pump. It is just a vague idea. A full flow system.