Ian L

5 hours ago, Surveyor said:

 

If you have taken 63 from the photograph this may not be the page number but the photograph number

Yes I think your right now I've looked again, the 63 is in the wrong place for a page number ?

I'm trying to locate the book this photo came from ? the only clue I have is its page 63 & some text.

I'm trying to get hold of HMVF member with the alias name 'russell sprout' but the last time he was active was October 2017 so although I sent him a message he's unlightly to get it. Anyone know him & could get a message to him ?

Cheers Ian 

Just got back from Bungay Air museum in Suffolk who have a compressor trailer identical to mine (except there's has an unbraked axle & 19" wheels) & on the information board is this copy of a photo of the compressor in use pumping airbags to lift a crashed Wellington bomber.

Question is ? what book did this photo come from as I would like a clearer photo rather that the photo I took through a glass screen ?

On ‎5‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 7:01 PM, andypugh said:

5/16 UNF is 0.3035 OD at 24tpi once you take in to account thread truncation. (5/16 UNEF is rather larger) 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1m5zkO9-SbQaYWbTPlQXJ2VA73Ys8WgWDrPk_rEukHc0/

It would be 0.3038" @ 25 TPI, which would fit the stated thread gauge better. 

As others have said, the engine predates the standards that we have tables for, and there is no need for those parts to be _any_ standard as they are not intended to be interchangeable fasteners. So the degree of crest truncation (or even rounding) might make up the difference. 

You might be able to figure something out by the shape of the roots and crests (flats or rounded) but that would take a lot of work with a shadowgraph for dubious benefit. 

Hi Andy.

25 TPI is the same thread as used on all the fuel connections on my 2 1945 Standard Tilly's which also stumped us but when we checked a bit further its a thread that 'some' car manufacturer's used in the 20s & 30s

11 hours ago, Ron said:

They are called 'Butted Spokes' I'd try Les at Russell's first. Then one of the wheel companies like 'Devon Rims'

 

Ron

Butted !! I didn't know what they were called, thanks again.

Hi guys where can I get these wheel spokes from for my Matchless G3 ? They are thicker at the base for about 3cms. Cheers 

1 minute ago, wdbikemad said:

Ian, if not loose on the shaft then it is possibly the bearing or clutch basket as you mentioned.........I'm sure I have a good used bearing here, plus a NOS clutch basket still in the wartime packing..........I'll have a rummage tomorrow in the workshop.......

It's Steve Madden by the way.........

Cheers Steve, I've just replied to your PM

38 minutes ago, Ron said:

Well there's an offer that beats trailering  it to Bournemouth.

Ron 

Thanks for the offer Ron, catch you in Normandy ?

38 minutes ago, wdbikemad said:

Ian, never had this issue with my 16H.......I also run the clutch dry with modern bonded friction linings and 4 instead of 5..........

As mentioned, I would suspect the clutch bearing or possibly the basket......another possibility would be if it was slack on the shaft.......

I'm on the north edge of Newbury so not a million miles away from Abingdon and willing to drop over and have a look......I have a lot of NOS 16H stuff plus decent used spares so substitution of parts may be an idea......? I'm also around most of the week as retired..........

 

That's an offer I cant refuse & I don't even know who you are ?

Like I said I've replaced 5 plates with 4 modern bonded type, I've also run it dry & no its not slack on the shaft (enough puns)

And like I said in my original message we suspect the clutch basket & bearing despite there being little to no play but I have no idea where to get a new set from (except India which I won't do)

I will PM you my details. Regards Ian

5 hours ago, Ron said:

I would want to pull the whole clutch off and start from basics. What is your location for moving the bike?  Ron

Hi Ron.

Abingdon, Oxford. like I said I'm happy to put it on the trailer.

Regards Ian. P.S. we did have a brief exchange of emails

7 hours ago, mogmaner said:

Check for oil contamination ,this can give the fault you have .

Like I said the plates are dry, even run it without the primary drive cover & no oil.

Hi Guys with Normandy 2019 fast approaching I desperately need advise or help !!!! with my 1944 Norton 16H which has developed a clutch fault.

Friends & 'experts' have had a look & offered advise with regards to why the clutch has started dragging which makes finding neutral almost impossible & juddering & lurching when you release the clutch from standing (especially when hot & in traffic)

All the obvious things have been looked at, the plates are new (4 now rather than 5) everything is straight & oil free, there's loads of movement when the lever is pulled in.

The only thing we cant be sure about is the clutch basket & roller bearings ?? it runs lovely & straight but how much movement / wobble should there be when the clutch lever is pulled in ? I need an 'expert to take a look, I'm very willing to put it on a trailer and bring it to them but times running out.      

Just dug my 1941 Ariel WNG out to put it back on the road, I've owned it a couple of years but the previous owner had it 25+ in storage. I have the original buff logbook & The dating letter arrived back today from the MVT.

1st job was to check for a spark but after cleaning the points still no go so who does magneto repairs ? 

Seen a few in Weymouth bay myself as I used to skipper a boat out of there, not much left of the one's I've seen you must of been lucky.

Have you ever seen an aircraft wreck that's spent 50 years in salt water around the British isles ? I've spent 25 years diving these waters and there ain't much left of them here wrecks. Good luck though.

£250

7 hours ago, MatchFuzee said:

Edited 5 hours ago by Ian L
Cant get the hang of this new format

As, you have put many interesting posts on the old forum, it is a shame that can't now.

My offer of help is still open.

 

6' of rope ? yes please help required !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On ‎18‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 7:13 PM, catnap72 said:

 Post war again I'm afraid properly 1960 onwards but defiantly not WW2 . That blue would of been correct (new) but I suspect would of later been painted NATO green with a yellow top ? 

 

Quote

 

Do you have a photo, I have a keen interest in WW2 RAF trailers.

Spent the days making the new inside cab engine panels today, photos to follow ASAP.

The carburettor has been a problem getting it to fit under the bulkhead but have finally managed it today by machining 5mm off the insulator block & about 10mm+ off the alloy adapter plate, it now looks a lot better with a WW2 Jeep airhorn fitted on top with about 8mm clearance above.

On ‎27‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 4:28 PM, Ron said:

It's amazing just how many parts can be disassembled from something as basic as the brake plates, and some fasteners are already away at the platers. These early WD/C's had aluminium brake plates, obviously before the cry to save aluminium for the more important task of aircraft manufacture. 

Talking of plating. Ben has received some samples of Dull Nickel for one of his other vehicles and decided to go with that finish for this bike. Should be nice! The process after chemical stripping will involve both polishing and grit blasting, before the nickel is applied.

Here's a very good excuse to eat more ice cream.  Ron 

Hi Ron who do you use for your plating if that's not classified information. Regards Ian

4 hours ago, Cam NZ said:

Hi everyone i' thought i'd revive this thread rather than start a new one to keep info in the same location for others.

I acquired the following Coventry Climax generator trailer a few months ago. I'm in New Zealand and the trailer has been part of the nz reme workshop at Linton army base going from the tac signs.

It has the same military lights and braided cabling as my 1963 landrover so i'm assuming its later production.

As i don't have the generator i'm wanting to make a canopy and canvas to match the electrical repair trailers and would appreciate it if someone can help me out with the measurements? particularly height of the hood bows from the bottom of the body.

The reme trailers are very rare here (i know of only one other in the country, last picture) and i only have two rims, does anyone know if there is any other vehicle that uses the same stud pattern? or perhaps have a spare they would be willing to part with?

Thanks in advance, the information in this thread has already been a huge help with the restoration process.

Cam

I broke one of those REME electrical repair trailers a few years ago & still have a few bits left including all the brass data plates if you need them ?

I like that TASKERS Andover (1932) plate, what trailer did that come off ?

49 minutes ago, commander said:

Who is going to Stoneleigh this Sunday 28/01/2018

Commander

Yes, see you there Chris.

4 hours ago, gritineye said:

Hover your cursor over 'Activity' button in the header, then a row of options appears below, click on the one you need and bingo there it is. 

 

 

Cheers Bernard that's what I've been looking for.