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Posts posted by andym
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The master switch box on the CVRT is the same for all variants. Stormer is completely different.
You're right - I didn't have my CVR(T) info to hand at the time!
The distribution panel contains three relays, one for the NBC pack, one for the cooking vessel and one for starter motor thermal protection. It sounds to me from your description that one of these isn't dropping out when it should, and the current through the relay coil is enough to drain the batteries?
Andy
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Ah, that makes sense - I hadn't considered it from that angle!
Andy
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Item no 120611961479
Now at £3578 with six days left, which is more than the recent Withams auction ...
Andy
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Silly question perhaps, but when you say you've changed the box, is it the same model of box? I think the later ones (Stormer/Shielder) are different and have a relay-operated battery master switch.
Andy
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You can't add attachments/files to PM's..
Which is quite bizarre, really!
Andy
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I'm surprised if they're getting much more than £2200 for them scrap unless the armour plate is regarded as special i.e. not iron. (I know they're not Aluminium this time I've checked). If not why aren't the reserves set lower? Sure there would be more buyers for them at £2500 or don't they want to upset the current owners too much.
At around £2000 the existing owners would probably be interested in buying them for spares, given decent pack and tracks.
Andy
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Did anyone ever follow up on this? There's some information about the NATO 6TN batteries, including sizes here: http://www.gylling.no/enersys/FV%20OMM%209602-0749%20Rev%2000.pdf
Note that the electrical specifications relate to the sealed "Armasafe" variants rather than conventional wet lead-acids, you won't get 1225 amps from one of those!
Andy
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Just you wait - the Gnome Guard will be after you! :cool2:
Andy
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Oh no - used car sales techniques in the military vehicle market? :shocked:
Andy
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I might give the Nokia version a try if it works on my N95 ....
Andy
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Take a look at the threads from paulob1 about driving vehicles back from Poland!
http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?19953-Polish-trip...the-drive-to-end-all-drives..
Andy
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There's some interesting things happening on FV432 prices at the moment. Withams seem to have a nice one that's stuck at £3500, presumably below its reserve, and Terry Brooks has one described as "excellent" for sale at £3495.
Andy
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Thanks Don!
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You might want to investigate the AAC museum at Middle Wallop for the AAC bits, perhaps?
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In the UK, we've sunk the Leander class frigate HMS Scylla as an artificial reef in Whitsand Bay, Cornwall.
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Looks like you're having fun, Iain! :cool2:
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can you p.m that to me also please Andy
many thanks
Iain
Will do!
The EMER suggests that broken bars can be extracted through inspection covers in the floor for stations 4 and 5. This is more difficult for 1, 2 and 3 because the covers are beneath the power pack and driver's compartment. It suggests finding a piece of 3/4" or 5/8" bar 6' long and threading it 3/8" UNF for 3/4" for insertion in the anchored end of the broken torsion bar. Screw it in, tap broken end clear of anchor block and push broken end through to axle arm end.
Hope that helps ...
Andy
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Thanks for that Andy, my FV438 always looks like it has the front two torsion bars broken so now I can reset them: I am assumimg the measurements are the clearance from the top surface of the jacking bar to to the hull, not hull to the centre of the bar?
You mention a jack under the axle? I thought you did it with the hull jacked up and the arm hanging loose?
If you jack the axle you are measuring, how do you know when to stop pumping the axle up towards the hull?
If that is so then I am surprised that it makes no difference if the wheels are on or not: if I set it to the correct measure with the wheels on then took them off, the measure would decrease surely as it sprung up - or if I set it with them off then put the wheels on, it will measure more because the wheel weight will pull the arm down? Maybe the difference is contained in the +/- 1/8th inch?
Any chance of a scan/photocopy of E108? I could swap you several other bits of 432 literature!
Cheers
John
John -
See my reply #2 above - the axle is jacked up until the centreline of the jacking mandrel is the prescribed distance from the underside of the hull, then you insert the torsion bar. The proper special tool is a jig with notches in it sized to account for the diameter of the jacking mandrel. I'll PM you a pic showing the arrangement:
Does that make sense?
Andy
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Anyone any idea of the distances for FV438 Swingfire axle arms?
Also, is it measured with or without the wheels on because the weight of the wheels will pull the arm down, resulting in a 'softer' spring setting for the same measured distance than if the wheels are removed.
Cheers!
You're in luck - E108 seems to include the FV438 although it doesn't say so in the title. It says that the 438 settings are the same as the 432 (see my list above). Strictly speaking it doesn't matter if you've got the wheels on or not as there's a jack under the axle when you measure, but you'd find it a lot easier to do with the wheels off!
Andy
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OK, that says to me that:
- The batteries are capable of holding a charge (especially if they can turn the engine over on their own after being charged from the donor vehicle)
- The FV439 alternators are producing an output, but
- The FV439 isn't charging the batteries
For a definitive test, if you've got a voltmeter to hand check the battery voltage when the engine is running and the donor vehicle is disconnected. It should read 28.5V +/- 0.5V with the engine at 2000rpm or above, if it doesn't then you've got a wiring or control box problem of some sort.
Andy
- The batteries are capable of holding a charge (especially if they can turn the engine over on their own after being charged from the donor vehicle)
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I've found another EMER, E108, which includes the FV433, and the torsion bar heights are considerably different to the FV432.
It says:
No 1 station: 6 3/16" to 5 15/16"
No 2 and 3 stations: 6 3/4" to 6 1/2"
No 4 and 5 stations: 7 3/8" to 7 1/8"
Hope that helps!
Andy
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439 might be a different matter though! It'll only start and run with the jumpleads connected, as soon as they're removed the engine dies.. which implies to me with flat batteries that the alternators aren't putting anything out at all to keep the fuel pump running. Or they are and there's a wiring fault.
There could be several reasons for that behaviour. I'd be inclined to put a voltmeter across the batteries to check the voltage before and after the engine starts to see just how flat the batteries are and whether or not there's any charging going on.
Does the Gen warning light on the driver's switchboard go out when the engine is started, out of interest?
Andy
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Me too, please!
Andy
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I know what you mean, mine is dotted with odd brackets and studs and the remains of yet more previous ones. Some brackets have spring clips so were presumably designed to hold tools of some description, for example I think there's supposed to be a "prodder" to release the mortar hatch latches which should be clipped to the rear end of the roof. Brackets on the left side above the exhaust pipe may be for the Penthouse tent kit.
Andy
is it just me?
in Tell us...!
Posted
No, it was doing the same for me, too. Ok now!
Andy