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andym

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Posts posted by andym

  1. The indicators will only work when you're in gear (no, I don't know why either!) - they're fed via the microswitch that prevents you starting unless you're in neutral.

     

    I don't know about the headlights as they're fed from the same fuse or breaker as the other lights, so perhaps you've got a loose wire somewhere?

     

    Andy

  2. I bought an interesting assortment:

     

    A pair of new ANR Clansman headsets, a set of FV432 mortar hatch latches, tank driver's overalls, a RAK15 Boiling Vessel and a Skorpion SMG.

     

    Andy

  3. Cheers Andy will take a look this weekend ,

     

    Got the release papers this week and was shocked at the year 1996 . fairly new vehicles for the army to dispose I thought

     

    Presumably that means you get stung for road tax? :embarrassed:

     

    Andy

  4. That's the gearbox oil filter warning light and sounds fairly serious.

     

    "The gearbox filter warning light will illuminate to indicate the gearbox filter is blocked, requiring replacement. No attempt should be made to run the vehicle if this light is showing".

     

    Andy

  5. I've got to ask before you splash out a hard-earned £70 - are you really sure this is a metric thread? It seems unlikely considering the age of the vehicle. I suppose that buying an M30 bolt would allow you to check!

     

    Andy

  6. Paul -

     

    I'm in much the same state at the moment, trying to work out what I've been left with so that I can get the intercom back up and working for starters. I took the top off the left-hand RJB and it does indeed just contain a pair of terminal blocks fed by the plug. I'd suggest that the RJBs are as good a place as any to pick up your 24V.

     

    Andy

  7. Thanks Iain - I didn't want to welly it too hard for fear of dislodging the jacking bar. Any idea what the bolt threads are? I didn't have anything suitable to hand and they look a far coarser thread than I'd have expected bearing in mind the thickness of the material and the intended usage.

     

    Andy

  8. Today saw my first attempt at the heavy stuff - changing some of the less happy road wheels. So I fitted the jacking bar and successfully raised an axle. I was rather surprised to see that the road wheels were attached with bolts rather than studs as the Unit Repairs manual had suggested the latter. Anyway, bolts removed and then I discovered the wheels were stuck fast. The outer wheel was removed by diagonal levering between the two wheels, but I couldn't shift the inner wheel at all. There seems to be a pair of tapped holes in the wheel - are they just to insert bolts to break the wheel off the hub, or is there something more complicated involved?

     

    Andy

  9. Here's my radio distribution box. There are two output looms made from white Nyvin, a four cable one at the front and a two cable one you can just see at the back.

     

     

     

    This is what the four cable one looks like:

     

     

     

    They feed a pair of boxes marked "Mod RJB", one near the commander's shoulder and one underneath the engine fire extinguishers. Here's the latter:

     

     

     

    I suspect, but haven't yet checked, that on each RJB the incoming power is on the side socket and there's probably a pair of terminal strips inside feeding the cables that come out through the grommets. Just pop the cover off, connect to the terminal strip and off you go!

     

    Andy

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    IMG_1193aw.jpg

  10. fv 432 one keeps blowing the control box, but they work beautifully on road...you can see who is doing something stupid behind you like trying to pass you up the inside or outside as your turning one way or another...great for changing lanes too

     

    I'll be looking at one of these for my FV432, too. I think the best way to power them is to use a 12V unit and feed it from a 24V-12V converter like the one that Maplin make. That way it will be protected from any thumps and bumps on the 24V supply.

     

    Andy

  11. If you're planning to use an inverter, you need to decide what type depending on what you're using it for. The cheap and cheerful ones have a highly distorted square wave output which some equipment won't like at all. The more expensive ones are usually described as "pure sine wave" and will be OK for anything. As ever, you pays your money and takes your choice!

     

    Andy

  12. I haven't got my 432 yet to check definitively (that's tomorrow!) but examination of the Unit Repairs manual shows that the radio distribution box has two sets of outputs on connectors SK5 and SK2, which feed the left-hand and right-hand radio junction boxes respectively. Both have +24V on Pin A and 0V on Pin B, fed via a 100A fuse. See if you can identify the two sockets and follow the wiring to the junction boxes? If you've got a Clansman IB2 or IB3 control unit for the radios and intercom, one of the sockets is probably feeding that, I'm not sure about the other one.

     

    And

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