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Posts posted by andym
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I bought an interesting assortment:
A pair of new ANR Clansman headsets, a set of FV432 mortar hatch latches, tank driver's overalls, a RAK15 Boiling Vessel and a Skorpion SMG.
Andy
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There's no substitute for someone who's been there and done it - nice one, Iain!
Andy
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The parts list says that the lock nut is 5/8" UNF, so that'll be a 15/16" spanner (same as the wheel nuts, if that helps!)
Andy
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The auction ended with no bids at 0945 this morning.
Andy
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Cheers Andy will take a look this weekend ,
Got the release papers this week and was shocked at the year 1996 . fairly new vehicles for the army to dispose I thought
Presumably that means you get stung for road tax? :embarrassed:
Andy
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Both the book and the DirectGov reference imply that the test is taken on the road - mine wasn't!
Andy
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Jim and i will be happy to help you out,come and see us at the war and peace show.We have the 432 with the home made h frame on the front.
Regards
Richard
That identification worked a treat - good to see you, sorry I didn't get back in time for the trip round the site! :embarrassed:
Andy
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Try his next one, "Phoenix Squadron"? Very much in the same vein although perhaps not quite so engaging.
Andy
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That's the gearbox oil filter warning light and sounds fairly serious.
"The gearbox filter warning light will illuminate to indicate the gearbox filter is blocked, requiring replacement. No attempt should be made to run the vehicle if this light is showing".
Andy
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I've got to ask before you splash out a hard-earned £70 - are you really sure this is a metric thread? It seems unlikely considering the age of the vehicle. I suppose that buying an M30 bolt would allow you to check!
Andy
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Paul -
I'm in much the same state at the moment, trying to work out what I've been left with so that I can get the intercom back up and working for starters. I took the top off the left-hand RJB and it does indeed just contain a pair of terminal blocks fed by the plug. I'd suggest that the RJBs are as good a place as any to pick up your 24V.
Andy
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Any joy with the annotated map yet? As a newbie it would be good to see where people are so I can say hello. I'm currently trying to lose a meeting on Friday so I can avoid visiting at the weekend .... :cool2:
Andy
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Sounds like a 1/2" bolt then, but I suspect it's UNC rather than UNF. Time for a quick trip to friendly bolt suppliers ...
Andy
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Just to redress the balance somewhat, my updated driving licence arrived one week to the day that I passed my H test and surrendered it to the examiner!
Andy
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Would i be too stupid to imagine that one would take out a pair of the bolts and put them in the removal holes?
R
Not too stupid, just too sensible! :nut:
Andy
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Thanks Iain - I didn't want to welly it too hard for fear of dislodging the jacking bar. Any idea what the bolt threads are? I didn't have anything suitable to hand and they look a far coarser thread than I'd have expected bearing in mind the thickness of the material and the intended usage.
Andy
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Today saw my first attempt at the heavy stuff - changing some of the less happy road wheels. So I fitted the jacking bar and successfully raised an axle. I was rather surprised to see that the road wheels were attached with bolts rather than studs as the Unit Repairs manual had suggested the latter. Anyway, bolts removed and then I discovered the wheels were stuck fast. The outer wheel was removed by diagonal levering between the two wheels, but I couldn't shift the inner wheel at all. There seems to be a pair of tapped holes in the wheel - are they just to insert bolts to break the wheel off the hub, or is there something more complicated involved?
Andy
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Here's my radio distribution box. There are two output looms made from white Nyvin, a four cable one at the front and a two cable one you can just see at the back.
This is what the four cable one looks like:
They feed a pair of boxes marked "Mod RJB", one near the commander's shoulder and one underneath the engine fire extinguishers. Here's the latter:
I suspect, but haven't yet checked, that on each RJB the incoming power is on the side socket and there's probably a pair of terminal strips inside feeding the cables that come out through the grommets. Just pop the cover off, connect to the terminal strip and off you go!
Andy
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fv 432 one keeps blowing the control box, but they work beautifully on road...you can see who is doing something stupid behind you like trying to pass you up the inside or outside as your turning one way or another...great for changing lanes too
I'll be looking at one of these for my FV432, too. I think the best way to power them is to use a 12V unit and feed it from a 24V-12V converter like the one that Maplin make. That way it will be protected from any thumps and bumps on the 24V supply.
Andy
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If you're planning to use an inverter, you need to decide what type depending on what you're using it for. The cheap and cheerful ones have a highly distorted square wave output which some equipment won't like at all. The more expensive ones are usually described as "pure sine wave" and will be OK for anything. As ever, you pays your money and takes your choice!
Andy
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I haven't got my 432 yet to check definitively (that's tomorrow!) but examination of the Unit Repairs manual shows that the radio distribution box has two sets of outputs on connectors SK5 and SK2, which feed the left-hand and right-hand radio junction boxes respectively. Both have +24V on Pin A and 0V on Pin B, fed via a 100A fuse. See if you can identify the two sockets and follow the wiring to the junction boxes? If you've got a Clansman IB2 or IB3 control unit for the radios and intercom, one of the sockets is probably feeding that, I'm not sure about the other one.
And
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I thought there was a socket on the distribution box that went to the radio harness? I don't have the wiring diagrams to hand but can check tonight if you want ...
Andy
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... apart from customers deliberately mispronouncing it "Dearer"! :cool2:
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Anyway feed QinetiQ into a word procesor and see the results.
I do so virtually every day at work! :-)
Andy
432 Headlights and indicators
in Lubrication, Batteries & Electrics
Posted
The indicators will only work when you're in gear (no, I don't know why either!) - they're fed via the microswitch that prevents you starting unless you're in neutral.
I don't know about the headlights as they're fed from the same fuse or breaker as the other lights, so perhaps you've got a loose wire somewhere?
Andy