Pete Ashby

If you post the the frame number here there are a number of us who have copies of the Chilwell lists so it may be possible once the British contract number is determined that a block of M numbers could be identified that would be appropriate for your vehicle.

It really is then just a case of picking a number out of the issuing block that takes your fancy. Registration numbers were issued prior to allocation to unit and during service it was not unreasonable to think that a degree of official re-allocation/un-authorized appropriation went on so it is not possible to trace a particular M number to a unit unless as has been mentioned you copy a period photograph.

Pete

Looks like its almost impossible to match the thread on that pipe fitting ...:undecided:

 

 

I would strongly recommend you phone Rex Ward he will be able to sort you out either with the original parts or a modern replacement

Pete

Towing can be a useful option if you have a suitable tow vehicle. Select top gear hold the clutch pedal down with the ignition OFF get your accomplice to tow you at a slow steady pace while you carefully feed the clutch in and out, usually frees after a couple of tries

Pete

The thing to be aware with NTP threads is that they are cut on a taper this is designed to aid sealing of hydraulic couplings. Pipe threads can be a real nightmare have a look at this thread there is a supplier link listed here as well http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?37313-Brake-Unions&p=358991#post358991

Pete

Well I've not seen it before and thought it well worth a heads up............ thanks for posting

Pete

Hi Folks

The jeep will be restore back to Ford GPW 1942 in British guise. Probably as 56th London Infantry Div. known as the "Black Cats". My father served in North Africa and Italy with them.

 

Best regards

MB1944

Good for you,

my Father served in N Africa, Sicily and Italy with 692 Inf Troop Workshop REME

Regards

Pete

Checked my CMP parts books and I don't think its Chev, Dodge or Ford, I think I'm inclined to agree with Gordon and guess at post war M series

Pete

Any part numbers on it James?

Pete

Oh my Pete, that sounds like a jeep anorak answer :shocked:

How long has it been since you sold the CMP Chev?!?

 

Hanno

Now Now my cloggie chum..... I'm just demonstrating that I'm a fully rounded person.

Anyway fear not Old Bean, there's a C30 12 cab LAA and a Dodge D15 tanker waiting their turn in the workshop so my CMP interests are alive and strong.

Who knows the current J thing may well appear in Canadian markings :cool2:

Pete

Keith

I think that it's a Willys MB produced towards the end of March 1944 on contract W-303-ORD-5792 US reg numbers for March 1944 are 20488769 to 20497789 inclusive

Pete

Interesting philosophical question. To come at it another way think about this, a jeep with a war time frame a war time engine and drive train but with re manufactured new parts installed, a reproduction body kit and new canvas what do you actually have ?.

It's a question I'm sure most of us who have done a number of restorations/rebuilds have considered at one time or another. My Leyland Retriever that keeps getting pulled to the front of the workshop for a bit more welding/fabrication when nothing else is around is a classic example of building a truck around a nut and bolt.

Now we come to the Metamet vehicle, if you consider it in the light of the above example I'd suggest that to restore it in it's Metamet guise would make it a more original example of motoring history than either the examples I sited above.

At the end of the day it's the individuals choice and there's absolutely nothing wrong with either except perhaps when it comes to resale and things are not always what they seem :undecided:

Pete

The description on Ebay states it is a "new Ford scripted body" pity its not an original body, a repro rather reduces its value, looks a nice Jeep otherwise

Missed that Nick, didn't read the blurb,

agree on balance it doesn't look bad for the money worth a look. As had been said many times before the chance of finding a factory fresh jeep is very slim and I guess it always has been as virtually any jeep sold out of service anywhere in N Europe will have been rebuilt to a grater or larger extent during service let alone the 40 to 50 years of civilian abuse.

Pete

Just for completeness, although MB and GPW frames are often described as either Ford or Willys types neither company actually manufactured frames except for the very first pr production prototype tool room produced had built models form each manufacturer. Production MB's had frames manufactured by Midland, production GPW's used Murray. On balance Ford made a large number of components (including bodies up until January 1944 with the introduction of the composite body) in house reflecting their much larger organisation and manufacturing capacity.

Willys on the other hand subcontracted virtually everything including bodies made by ACM and in reality acted in the role of central focus and assembly plant from their one plant in Toledo.

Pete

Early GPW's were indeed built on Willys style frames from January 1942 to the end of March to mid April 1942 the exact date depending on which Ford plant (Rouge, Chester, Dallas, Louisville or Richmond) that the truck was assembled at. Louisville was the last plant to use Willys style frames.

As a rule of thumb it would be fair to say that GPW frame numbers 1 to some number short of 14768 had Willys frames. As a matter of interest early GPW's were fitted with Wilson Foundry blocks as fitted to Willys up to some point as yet not determined in April 42.

If its the jeep I think you are looking at I thought I saw tooling holes in the rear frame cross member, this was a Ford plant requirement to enable them to be handled on their production lines. The front bumper also had two tooling holes added some time during late April 1942. Willys never had this feature, you may wish to check that out. You should also expect to see the Ford Logo stamped into the rear body panel and no gas can carrier fitted. There are a number of other detail differences but it will depend on how much the truck has been rebuilt/messed about with.

Just re-checked the photos, it does appear to have a round cross member under the rad so that is correct for willys style frame but it does appear to have tooling holes on the rear cross member see comments above. The body has the Ford logo but also has had a retro fitted gas can holder, not uncommon and was issued in late 42 as a field fit. I can't see a trailer socket which is correct for a factory scripted body.

The key question to ask for is the frame number and it's position, and also if the body is a repro or original. It should have a body number on the front of the Drivers side scuttle gusset rail if it's an original Ford body.

Good luck

Pete

Just checked my specs book, for the war time jeep standard model 1941 to 1945 the rear bush should be 0.6380"

Nose bush (flywheel bell housing) 0.4968". The motor shaft should have 0.001" clearance on the bushes.

What happens when the bushes ware is the torque on the motor builds as the piston comes up to TDC the motor shaft will try to twist into the line of rotation this in turn makes the dog bite deeper into the ring gear and effectively stalls the motor.

There may be other issues but the bushes are the easiest thing to check first as you can measure them without too much effort.

Pete

As Ken suggests I would check/replace the bushes in both the bell housing and motor end plate before going on to any thing more drastic like replacing the ring gear. From your description it is likely to be worn bushes.

Pete

Interesting stats, the thought occurs that if all those trucks were in one place at one time it would make one very impressive show and one very long convoy :wow:

Pete

Nice to see the old chap hasn't lost it Rob :-D three cheers for the Atomic Energy apprentice scheme where would any of us be without it

Pete

OK found my data book,

the correct name for these threads is 'National Pipe Thread' and they are cut at a taper of 1/16" per 1 linear inch. A 3/8" NPT has a TPI of 18 and a pitch 0.05556" the pipe OD for 3/8 NPT is 0.675"

Pete

Lets put it this way.....many years ago Rex Ward owned one.........but not for long

Pete

Does anyone know if the pitch on an American 3/8" brake union is different to an English one. I'm having a nightmare making brake lines up....

I think you'll find it's an American fine pipe thread I can't remember the tpi or pitch but you should be able to get 3/8" union nuts and T fittings via the standard dealers for not a lot of money.

Pete

So heres the thing.

 

The lovely little Standart Tilly that has been in the Big Shed for a while went home today. Ever since the reconditioned engine went in it has behaved impeccably. Yet today when the owner arrived to drive it home it was having none of it, misfiring, popping back through the carb and all that. Plugs came out, black as the ace of spades so they got cleaned up. One plug continued to refuse to soldier so eventually I swapped that out for one out of a series 1 landrover which improved thing marginally but not completely. But fundamentally there was nothing wrong with it as it was all as per the book.

 

Eventually the owner got it out onto the road and between us we got underway, slowly at first but then with growing confidence and ever improving performance.

 

Within 30 minutes it was running like a sewing machine and in due course earlier this evening it was home after a fine 90 mile run. OK there may be some slight adjustments to be made to timing and idling but the fact of the matter was that these are not modern engines and need coaxing along sometimes, especially when coming out of hibernation.

 

They are not formula 1 cars requiring constant adjustment (think of the standards of the day when they were built and what they were for after all), but they do need to be used - and for decent amounts of time. Theres nothing like a good long run to blow the cobwebs out and get everything settled down. Only then should you contemplate getting the toolbox out!

Wise words indeed enough said.

Pete

Very nice indeed have a real soft spot for coe's good work guys :clap:.

Pete

Runnning fine before laid up and the fuel is the same.

In that case I would not concern yourself with any issues to do with the carb other than checking that your choke is coming fully off.

Pete

Pete

 

You are correct Solex carb is fitted. Being a novice and most of my work is done via mauals and the like how do I check that it is jetted correctly?

 

Many thanks

Hoppy for your jeep I think you should have a Type M32PB1C Solex however I have seen other Solexs plonked on instead... for some reason jeeps seem to attract odd carbs. From what I can see in your pictures yours looks right but worth a check.

Do a search on this forum for 'Solex Carbs' I think this topic has been discussed before. If you still have an issue with running rich I'd think about a rebuild kit for the carb assuming you have the correct model.

Pete