Pete Ashby

your not the chicken farmer in the Dambusters film are you ?

Ha very good........... no a bit further south and west of that particular lake.

Pete

The search for true paint shades..........I use the word deliberately........ is a fascinating subject which as others have already said can be likened to looking for the Holy Grail. The search for the exact shade of G3 for instance kept me occupied for not a little while a few years back, and what exactly is Knobels Tarmac Green some say matt black, some swear by black with a hint of dark green......all good stuff.

One word of caution with period colour photos, early colour film emulsions were not as responsive to the red spectrum as modern films, Kodak being particularly notable for this. Have a look at you family holiday snaps from the mid 60's you'll see what I mean. The net result of this is that any colour tone that has a percentage of red in it's spectrum will not give a true result so browns, oranges, and indeed some colours that I'll loosely call Olive will be distorted.

Pete

I can't remember the size, but it will be an American pipe thread for pitch and threads per inch. Do a web search on American pipe threads there are some very good tables available that will give you TPI and pitch for any given size.

Then see if your local hose dealer can help, some can and some can't. One thing to be aware of, APT's are cut on a taper, look it up you'll find it fully explained, this means that even if you have a thread with the same TPI but it is not an APT union it will not seal.

Pete

There was no way I could not watch them. ...... if I am a bit late getting to W&P you know why, servicing on the wagon was held up.

Lucky you Richard, you boys in the east get all the fun, I just get buzzed at 0 feet by every fighter in NATO......puts the chickens off lay......... Bah

Pete the sun burnt farmer

My Dodge build card has the Date Built as August 11th, 1944. How long after manufacture would it have likely arrived in the UK/Europe? and were there theatre modification centres after manufacture, like there were for aircraft, to equip a vehicle to suit the theatre it was going to operate in?

That's a difficult question to answer, as you know there is now masses of information available on jeeps regarding matching build date to frame number to contract number and thus to where and when certain contracts were dispatched.

In short I think you would need to know what contract your Weapons carrier was built on, Iv'e not seen any information but then Iv'e not particularly searched for it, it may be available on Gordon's Dodge site.

Regarding time for shipping assuming it came off the line and into a crate and don't think many did at this point in the war, then I guess between 1 and 2 months.

At the time your Dodge was produced the urgent need for vehicles for the build up to D Day had passed and losses during the summer campaign had be lighter that anticipated, this changed with the heavy winter losses of 44/45 so it may well have sat State side for a while.

I'd ask the question on Gordon's Dodge site

Pete

Sorry to continue the subject drift...... very nice looking K6 by the way............ but the orange thing has answered a question.

Over the years I've done a number of jeeps and two in particular came with orange upper surfaces and back panels on top of factory OD I speculated that they were either used on air fields although this was just a guess or on ranges.

Thanks for supplying the answer

Pete

Do you know I started watching this thread and thought..... 'come on guys give it a break lighten up a bit'.......... but the more I read more I started thinking.

I have to say I don't think it's too much of an issue at a personal level as I have a son who has his own collection and is very aware of market prices and a daughter who spent her formative years around MV's and also knows market values and where to place them. My will as I suspect most married blokes says everything to my wife who also has spent 30 years around MV's then everything split between the kids 50/50 with the understanding that if either of them want a vehicle then they come to an arrangement with the other party regarding 50% of the market price otherwise every thing goes up for sale at current market price what ever that may be at the time.

However as this hobby/obsession seems to have a disproportionate age distribution towards the upper end I can see that for some this is a real issue, I agree with others in this thread who have voiced fears that their cherished vehicle will at best be sold off to the lowest bidder and I have seen a few come up on various market web sites this year, or at worst take a short trip to the weigh in scales.

I don't have any cheap quick answers to what in some cases is a very real issue, there is one case that I am aware off where an incredibly rare collection of same type vehicles may very well ultimately face this fate through lack of living relatives and a degree of forward thinking.

Hmmm very thought provoking, thanks for raising such an unlikely thread

Pete

Interesting point regarding the insurance Clive I'd not considered that at all but I see the potential issues now that you raise them.

The flasher relay I think I can work out but I have no experience with the use of LED's in the automotive world............. in short are they as good as they are claimed to be.

I'm interested to hear how much of an issue you think the lack of Oblique illumination is?.

I particularly have in mind the standard war time US red bulls eye stop and tail and I'm not sure that these give much in the way of Oblique lighting when using conventional bulbs.

Pete

Thanks for that Tony

in my wandering around the web looking into the subject I had read that a load would have to be introduced into the flasher circuit or as you say a use a LED designed unit. Have you got LED's on your ambulance?

Pete

I'm looking at options for up rating 6 volt lighting systems and I wondered if any body on the forum had experience with using 6 volt LEDs for side lights, brake lights and flashers.

Welcome, and here's a thought to carry round with you - wish I'd had it years ago.

 

There is a danger here that you will bypass something really worthwhile that you get a chance at, just because it isn't a Scammell or even the exact model you want.

 

Have a good hard think about everything you run across, especially everything that is rare, or odd, in case you regret it down the line.

 

If you do find something odd you don't really want, be sure to mention it on here, and one of the others will tidy it away.... :angel:

Wise words from the man in the North

Pete

If your truck is a 1941 build I guessing it's 12 cab? in which case the number would have been on a small plate fixed to the engine cover near the hand brake lever.

Pete

Very nice, good to see it back on the road................I could almost be tempted again

Pete

Hello Adam welcome, I'm about 50 miles west of you, not too many of us out here in the wild west

Pete

Hi Nick,

I leave the clutch arm out and fit it later. The arms have a tendency to crack and can definitely be changed through the letter box, you need to be like a gynaecologist though :-D

Now there's a thing Mr Farrant................... or is it Dr ??:cool2:

Shocked of Wales

This is a real long shot but I once had a simialr problem with a GMC engine. I'm not familiar with your distributor is it CAV or Lucas ? either way it may be worth checking the points base plate to see if it is firmly fixed to the rotor shaft.

The problem I had with the GMC engine was as follows: Engine would start and run and respond perfectly until fully warmed.

Then after a period of full throttle operation when the throttle was shut and then reopened to pull away it would start to miss fire an then die.

Once the engine cooled it would start and run perfectly again until everything warmed up again.

After a lot of messing about changing all the ignition components apart from the distributor quite by chance I noticed that the base plate was ever so slightly loose on the shaft ( a French rebuild, the base plate is only peened onto the shaft and it had worn)

The net result was that when every thing was hot the base plate would move into a fully advanced position and stick when the throttle was closed hence the missing and bad running.

Just remember to put a bar through the front springs to support the engine or an alternative solution is a block of wood between the fire wall and the rear of the block it does the same thing and prevents the engine from sagging and ripping off the front engine mounts and putting the fan blades through the rad.

Pete

Well done to you,

I'd very much like to hear the story behind it's discovery, do you know how it came to be in the barn?

Pete

Agree with Gordon, my GMC had a full set of NoS canvas and each piece was stenciled with the part number in a very dark purple black ink 1" high

Pete

I am too old for them these days

Jack .......nobody is too old for a GMC probably the best truck I ever owned...... not counting the cost of fuel of course, Ah, then there's the tyres every few years then the constant maintenance bolting back on things that got rattled off oh and I nearly forgot, the odd bout of fuel vaporization in embarrassing situations.............no, never too old perhaps just a bit wiser

Pete the Old Fogie :-D

Guys..................just use the cartridges.................it's so much easier and cleaner :cool2: Just like you Timbo I spent years covered in grease, grit and fluff off the rags used to wipe everything including the cat the dog the kids and the wife :nut:............. pause for thought...... well any way then the grease God invented cartridges and low everything was clean.

Pete

I'm afraid not Rick as you won't be able to scrape the old gasket off properly, if you don't do this you'll end up with another leak :-(:-(

The best bodge you could try is get some silicone sealant cut the nozzle to give you a very small bead, loosen off the chain cover jam the nozzle into the gap and squirt a bead into the gap and tighten everything up. This is a get you out of trouble bodge not something to be recommended as a cure.

Pete

If the canvas was down the weapon would get wet when it rained. The other variable might be the length of the dash lights - am I right in thinking that some American dash lights are longer than others ?

Quite so David, nothing worse than a damp weapon when you need it

Pete

Factory fit was facing down, ie the open part of the bracket assembly facing the floor of the vehicle.

Pete

Glad youv'e found the problem,

one thing for reference, rubber hoses onto metal lines secured by jubilee clips can cause an issue if you use to large a clip and to compensate tighten it down too much. A 'flat' can develop under the worm that then can permit air to enter the system, the same thing applies to rad hoses except here a leak is obvious.

Pete