Pete Ashby

Right Robert, just got off the phone to David the company he used was Universal Tire in the US they have all sorts of strange sizes including a section just for military tires not sure if they have 900:13 but worth looking them up on the web and asking

Pete

Still searching for the Holy Grail then Robert !!

my son David has just imported some 10.50/16's from a supplier in the States for the C30 they had all sorts of odd sizes available I'll ask him where they came from for you. I do know with import tax on top they were eye wateringly expensive though..... watch this space I'll get back to you

Regards to you and Sharon

Pete

WOW! - £33,750 FOR A JEEP !!!

 

it would be interesting to work out exactly how much a jeep would cost to build from scratch - as the advert for the auction stated that particular jeep was a complete restoration / re-build - so how much would it cost to visit the various jeep parts suppliers and do the same ? - would it really be £33,750...?

 

No it would be the thick end of £9K plus purchase price assuming you stared with the power train, frame and body in repairable condition and you do all the work yourself apart from the block machining and do not cost for time:

 

Engine machining and full rebuild

Gearbox and transfer case complete rebuild

Axles overhauled all bearings replaced

Rad recored

All seals replaced

Rewire

New tires

New canvas

Paint

Odds and sods

 

Pete

Read this thread with interest

Like a number of you in the early 1970's I went to a technical secondary modern school doing technical drawing woodwork, metal work, physics biology and chemistry all as separate subjects along with the standard syllabus subjects. I left and went into research and did another 8 years of study the first 4 as well as chemistry and physics leaning various skills required for experimental rig building including metal work, machine work welding brazing soldering vacuum plumbing and glass blowing of all things, the last 4 specializing in Chemistry, physical, organic and inorganic.

With the exception of the glass blowing everything else has been of use in 40 years of restoring and maintaining vintage vehicles........ and that is probably the answer to part of the question about the bubble bursting today's young people have not for nearly two generations had the broad based practical education that we had the privilege to have for free so apart from the money issue the skill in the hands is not there in the vast majority of young people, they also live in an immediate world so a restoration project of 3 or more years is not attractive to them.

Has the bubble burst ?..... I don't believe so, it may have plateaued as it has done before but the market price will out strip inflation despite what I have written above.

The fact is there are now people collecting//buying (they are not necessarily the an interchangeable term) who have the money to employ the few who do have the skills to restore and keep vintage machinery going.

It's not just an MV phenomenon, it's happening in all aspects of vintage vehicle collecting notably in the Hot Rod world it's gone from being 'Good Old Boy's' in a back street lock up to serious wads of cash being dispensed, a quick look at the sale prices or a walk around the trailer park at an event like Pendine Sands race day will confirm that MV's are still good value.

Pete

Hmm there's a thought,

lets say an average of 1000 miles a year for 40 years not so many these days but regularly up to 2500 during the first 30 odd years so that works out out at around 40,000 miles spread across jeeps, doges, GMC's CMP's I'm not including the 109 as that was my wife's and I don't do Land Rovers :cool2:

so lets see that would be:

jeeps various for 15 years @ 18mpg = (15 x 1000) / 18 = 833 gal

Dodges variuos for 10 years @ 14mpg = (10 x 1000) / 14 = 714 gal

GMC for 5 years @ 10 mpg = (5 x 1000) / 10 = 500 gal

CMP's various 5 years @ 10mpg = ( 5 x 1000) / 10 = 500 gal

TOTAL = 2547 gal (or 11579 l for our SI unit chums)

Not done that calculation before but it's a fair estimation and may be a bit on the low side if anything

Pete

Any particular reason ? what surface were you using it on and how was it preped ?

Pete

Google the spec for U-Pol etch primer comes in a handy spray can if you are only doing individual items

Pete

Reproduction copies of the factory parts book come up on e-bay from time to time at a range of prices from eye watering to sensible.

Pete

morning pete

 

i don't know specifics but we used a fine glass for the good area's and were there was pitting we used a very course glass type grit. it cleaned up perfectly but i did spend a lot of time needle gunning the chassis as well.

 

regards sam

Thanks Sam for the useful information, we have a badly corroded frame in the pipe line that will require similar treatment and yours seemed to come up very clean indeed

Pete

Good job Sam the frame cleaned up really well, what blast medium did you use ?

Pete

Right body type Runflat unfortunately wrong truck, the one in the photos is a late model (1941) Leyland Retriever this is the BY5 FBE (factory photo IWM)

Pete

Nice cross section of Vehicles thanks for posting :tup::

Pete

PM sent to you Paul

Pete

Often thought that rushmoor arena, longcross or slab common would have made a great show

30 odd years ago there used to be a big show at Rushmoor arena each year with MV's, vintage commercials etc

Pete

Remember it well first saw that truck and the other one that was with it way back in 1975, did it still have the spare half shafts in the lockers behind the cab when you pulled it out ? Good to see it's still about, a number of people often ask what happened to it.

Looking forward to your restoration blog, as you may have seen I have a leaning towards British 6x4's myself

regards

Pete

Hi. just a quick photo to show how I found the Albion on a farm Nr Wrexham, she had been standing out in the open for few years. I have quite a few photos of her restoration but thought that there wasn't the interest to see them.

 

PB.

You have an extremely rare truck there, perhaps even unique, there is most definitely interest in hearing and seeing what you are doing with it, why don't you start a thread in the restoration forum with photos and a bit of explanatory text starting with when you acquired it? I'm sure you will attract a lot of interest.

Is this the truck that at one time resided in a well known yard in Oxfordshire ? before it was dragged out and restored by the previous owner ?

Pete

At least with this tyre there is the comfort that they will be relatively recently made and should be still supple and free of cracks. Query the tread pattern for a British truck though.

 

STA -" Speciality Tyres of America" still make an interesting range of sizes including a 10.50 x 16 with a very authentic tread for British/Canadian vehicles which I am road testing at the moment.

 

Its the only authentic looking option but comes at a horrendous price !

My son has just fitted a set on the C30 David, bit of a tight fit on the rims due to the 5' bead angle but they seem very good, he says it has certainly transformed the ride from the originals at 8 ply there is a bit more flex in the side walls as opposed to none with the run-flats. Your right about the price though eye watering :wow:

regards

Pete

Hi.

 

So I found a company that sells brand new 9.00 x 20"Bar Grips made in India - had a chat with them about fitting and then ordered on line, plus free delivery. Also this included inner tubes and flaps, for me a winner as they turned up the next day ready for fitting.

Cheers.

PB.

Interested to hear how they fit on British rims, photos of the tread pattern would be useful too

Pete

I'm guessing Higgins is referring to a gas paint patch? if so it would seem that a dark mustard yellow is about right

Pete

Looks like you have got the problem sorted :yay:

thanks for coming back and letting us know the outcome it's useful to for all of us on HMVF as it helps to track down problems and remedies that we may encounter. :tup::

Pete

This may make things a bit clearer for you fillers are arrowed

Pete

Darren, you really would benefit from running some tests before you start changing things or taking the engine apart again, otherwise I'm afraid you are just guessing at what the problem may be. Buy a vacuum gauge off e-bay around £12 to £15 you need the un-damped type connect it to the vacuum wiper take off on the carb or the PCV valve input on the inlet manifold run the engine up to operating temperature and read the gauge it will potentially save you a lot of wasted time and money follow this link on how to interpret the readings you obtain http://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/03/31/vac-visual-quick-guide-vacuum-gauge-readings/

Pete

In that case look at what Richard suggested.

Probably the question that Darren needs to address first is: did the engine smoke before he did what ever he did. It would help the diagnosis to know exactly what that work involved.

If yes then it could well be as Richard suggests and/ or excessive blow by and oil mist (caused by worn or broken rings)being drawn out of in the crank case into the inlet manifold via the PCV mounted on the inlet manifold .... do have one of these fitted Darren? .....and is it the right way round?.

It would be worth while doing some dynamic tests with a vacuum gauge to see what state your engine is in followed by static compression and leak down readings if the simple solution doesn't fix the problem.

Pete

How much oil have put in the air filter bowl ? it you have over filled it the air flow will draw oil mist into the the inlet manifold. Also seen a similar problem when the air filter had been removed and tipped up so that the oil in the bowl saturates the gauze

worth running with the filter off for a short while to see if the problem remains.

Pete

Useful link :thanx:

Pete