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Pete Ashby

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Posts posted by Pete Ashby

  1. Not too sure what your photo is showing there ?

    how distorted is the fixing and more importantly what should it look like ?

     

    At 6mm thick just a bit out of shape and it will tap back straight an anvil is better than a vice but a vice will do the job as long as it's large enough and securely fixed to the bench. More than a bit out of shape and you'll need to heat it up and before you try to straighten it.

     

    Pete

  2. Hello Mark,

     

    if you post a few photos which show the following areas:

    Instruments, steering wheel, hubs, front of cab below the head lights, cab roof it may enable a decision to be made as to early or late 13 cab production without the door plates it's not easy to be definite. Your suggestion based on the date on the rear of the tow hook is reasonable but assumes the draw gear has not been changed at some time.

     

    Pete

  3. Unfortunatley the last 'Independent' spares shop in my area has just closed. :angry The local factor I use is good, but don't have the odd bit of bits of things.

     

    Ever the way Tony in most places these days, gone are the days of poking around a wall of little draws for the odd plug cap or terminal. If you can't supply the Vin No, reg No and colour and the bit you want doesn't come prepacked in vacuum sealed fancy packing of at least 4 items then your your out of luck as the computer won't recognize the sale:-(

     

    That's why the Green Spark Plug Company and other similar web based suppliers are now first choice for me every time.

     

    Pete

  4. Found some time over the last month to finish the spare wheel carrier so here's a few photos showing the construction of the locking mechanism and the return pulley and bracket.

    This part of the build was mildly challenging as this bit was built entirely from photos, it not only had to look right but had to function correctly to ensure that it doesn't pole axe any one when the wheel is lowered, all in all I'm pleased with the result.

     

     

    Locking lever and bracket bent and shaped using the torch and bending bars

     

    SDC17876.JPG

     

    SDC17916.JPG

     

    SDC17875.JPG

     

    Return roller bracket cut from 5mm plate

     

    SDC17877.JPG

     

    SDC17918.JPG

     

    Return roller bracket, roller and cable installed and spare wheel carrier arm refitted to try out the operation no one crushed and the arm didn't bury itself in the workshop floor.......result !!

     

    SDC17914.JPG

  5. Time for another clear out before a new project so for sale a NoS Ford CMP Battery tray part No Co1Q-310773.

    A few other random bits and pieces to follow as and when I find them

     

    £35.00 plus p&p at cost

     

    Pete

     

    SDC17794.JPG

     

    SDC17795.JPG

  6. Have checked out Paul Beck's site ? thttps://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/395-container-lucas-type-160-mirror

     

    this type was fitted to most pre war and early war time trucks the example is plated but I seem to remember he used to do a plain brass version, he has the correct style mounting arms as well if you scroll through the catalogue

     

    Pete

  7. One thing I heard is that one of the bidders who bought a lot of the items for a lot of money from the museum thought all of the kit had actual 6th of June 1944 provenance..... :undecided:

     

    Hmm...... yes I'd heard the same thing Hanno case of very mistaken identity me thinks :rolleyes: we have a saying in English about a misguided person and his money i'm sure you have something similar in Dutch ?

     

    Pete

  8. There are strong reasons for prices to have gone up in recent years; but looking at the history of collectables, particularly classic vehicles, the way things seem to go is that prices shoot up due to factors such as availability, interest in a vehicle, other ways of investing etc., but then prices level out or even fall. The trick is judging the top of the market!

     

    Agreed Sean and if I look back over the last 40 years there have been slight falls and slack periods in the market but I have to say the mean trend is upwards. Logic would suggest there must be a ceiling price but we don't seem to have reached it yet.

    I'm ignoring the prices from the Normandy sale as they are so far above the current market prices to be of no value in judging the market value of any similar vehicles put up for private sale in the next five years.

     

    I would be interested to know who the winning bidders were for a number of items, I'l lay wager the vehicles will not be seen again for a good number of years :(.

     

    Pete

  9. Its to do with the oil pick up screen. The standard 28hp has a plate just forward of the distributor to access the screen filter. The QL has to have a different sump with a well at the front end to clear the axle, so screen on that one is fitted to bottom of oil pump. An access plate in base of sump allows cleaning. The QL block is not machined for the filter screen.

     

    Richard

     

    Thanks for that nugget Richard stored away in case it may come in handy one day ;)

     

    Pete

  10. There is a difference in the cylinder block of a QL from all the other models fitted with the 28hp. So if you are looking for one for an OY, MW, etc, then a QL engine is not suitable and vice versa.

     

    Never knew that Richard, so for future reference what's the difference ?

     

    Pete

  11. Tank drivers right it will need doing sooner rather than later but as long as you keep a careful eye on the oil level in the sump you'r OK for a couple of hundred miles more.

     

    Then it's engine out and check everything for ware against the factory specs while it's out, the old adage of 'do it once do it right' will save you time money and heart ache in the medium to long term.

     

    The problem (other than loss of engine oil and also a drop in oil pressure in the rest of the system) is that eventually the oil swilling around in the bell housing will end up on the clutch lining and that will be the end of that.

     

    Again as tank driver says the engine is a basic design, there are one or two things that are critical during rebuild but these are more than covered on HMVF and G503 forums in depth.

    With a few AF sockets some combination ring/open end spanners a good quality puller a manual and a couple of links to sites on the web there's nothing you couldn't teach yourself to do. I have included the link to the first part of a series on engine rebuilding on the G503 web site http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=73879

     

    The most important piece of advice I can offer is NEVER be afraid to ask the seemingly daft question, make use of the search functions on this site and G503, at the end of the day if you don't feel confident to have a go there are a number of specialist business out there who will take the job on for you.

     

    Good luck and keep asking questions and posting the photos it always helps when guys are trying provide an accurate answer

     

    Pete

  12. Congratulations :) Be prepared for the Dodge Dunk though! It seems to be a rite of passage for Dodge owners :D

     

    Happy days !! a gallon or two of cold water down the back of the neck :wow::wow: at the first junction you pull up at is always an interesting start to the journey and focuses the mind on checking the rear canvas for standing water before starting out next time. Or you can cheat and get the cab sheet sewn over the top of the cargo sheet.......... no names no pack drill :cool2:

     

    Pete

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