Pete Ashby

Good job !!

nothing beats that first run on the road pleased it went well for you, it makes all the time and money spent on a project worth while doesn't it :drive:

Pete

It's a cab 13 have no rails. But I would interested in anything

PM sent

Pete

Some more fabrication work done in the workshop .

The rear wheel boxes are ready and just need to finish the lid on the RH side box .

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122638[/ATTACH]

 

Now only have to drill some holes and make the wooden bits that go in the bracket.

Nice work, particularity like the jig for folding the brackets...... neat :goodidea:

Pete

Sea change both in presentation and depth of content.

The articles now warrant the time spent on reading them. Excellent first issue under the new stewardship looking forward to the next edition :thumbsup:

Thanks

Pete

Ah that explains it then, the thing that drew my attention to the pressings was the sharp edge finish I thought you either had a really heavy duty press and die or a rolling wheel, still full marks for ingenuity Jez like it.

In the same spirit of Iv'e just nicked an aluminium saucepan from the kitchen and turned it into the base of a Vokes air cleaner body (more of that another time in the Retriever thread) unless it's loss is detected :angry in which case I'm brown bread

Keep the photos coming

Pete

Good work Jez :thumbsup:,

Two questions, how did you produce the two pressings in the end door ? and how did you close the rivets off in such a restricted place inside the box ?

Pete

Hi Pete

 

Those pics look familiar ! David Pope is a Canadian , those snow pics are his pics . David has two C8 vehicles , he is a regular poster on the MLU forum.

 

The drawings I posted in the first post are for the British 8 cwt tilt frame. I should have made that clear - sorry. The British tilt frame ( Morris - Humber etc ) is made from 1" plain tubing . The Canadian tilt frame is made from thick walled plumbers type pipe and the method of mounting to the body is a different setup.

Now you come to mention it I think that's where they may have came from or perhaps it was a google image search it was a few years ago now...either way thanks to Dave Pope they were very useful.

Thanks for the clarification re your drawings, I'll re-label them in my useful file as British spec only.

Pete

Thanks for taking the time to produce the drawings and posting them, very useful information and just the sort of thing we all should do from time to time perhaps?, no matter seemingly how obscure the subject may be someone somewhere out there is looking for information and help

So here's my contribution a few detail photos taken from the web (sorry I have lost the source references now but thanks to the posters) a number of years ago when I was making an 8cwt hood frame your drawings goanna would have made the whole job a lot easier !!

Pete

Every reason for both of you to be proud, takes me back 25 years to when I started my son on his first Airfix model.

All credit to your daughter Steve in a world of instant gratification it's refreshing to see a young person putting time and effort into producing something like this.

Pete

Thanks Richard for the suggestion,

I tracked it down via a number of classic tractor web sites it's about 2" too long for the job however in searching for it Iv'e found something else that will do the job

Thanks

Pete

Has anyone found a suitable modern cartridge air filter to replace the Vokes felt bellows type as fitted to early Bedford MW Leyland Retriever etc ?

Thanks

Pete

As you know Ian British, and for that matter Canadian trucks, can be difficult to gauge a realistic asking price for them, they are not everyone's cup of tea. Having said that if your C8 was A1 mechanically and with good paint work, good tires, canvass etc somewhere around the £8.5k to £10k mark I would suggest as the ball park price. With a dodgy crank and white metal cast bearings there is obviously a cost to take into account.

It's a number of years since I had any white metal casting and line boring done (the last was a Chev engine about 10 years ago) The real issue is what damage has been done to the crank, is it just a regrind one size down or will it need metal spraying and rebuilding.

I think that's where the unknown cost lies in your case. If it was me buying I'd want to see at least £1K off market price to cover potential work and possibly a tad more by the time transport to and from a specialist machine shop is taken into account.

But as we all know (and most of us have been there at one time or another) Beauty is in the eye of the beholder..... so my advise for what it's worth.......... would be set a fair price and be prepared to deal :cool2:

Pete

Brilliant the chap gets back from holiday Thursday so fingers crossed I can go double check everything is in order and collect it, il be sure to start a thread on my restoration aswell thankyou for your help it's put my mind at ease

Good luck completing the deal and look forward to following your thread in the restoration forum

Pete

Hydrovacs does anyone have a good source of parts(in the uk preferably) or info on bleeding and setting up.

had a look online and it sounds a bit like a pain in the **se.

What make of truck are you working on ?

Pete

Excellent job keep the photos coming, it's good to see someone going the extra mile for a British truck

Pete

Been back over the plug gaps this morning & re set the mixture & base idle, its now running really well & vac gauge is holding pretty steady at 19.

 

Thanks for all your help & suggestions guys,

All the best, 2door.....

Pleased it's looking sorted,

the vacuum gauge as a diagnostic tool has faded from the modern tool box with the advent of fault codes and fuel injection systems, but for over 60 years is was the standard first choice for intermittent engine faults as it looks at the dynamic state of the system as a whole.

If used in conjunction with compression and leak down tests it's an invaluable guide to whats actually going on in the engine at any given time and removes guess work and haphazard replacement of components I certainly wouldn't be without mine

Pete

Anything between 85 to 100 psi on this size engine would be about right, on a warm engine with the plugs out and on the starter motor with a fully charged battery and as Richard notes throttle wide open. Variation between cylinders something in the region of +/- 10psi.

Pete

Thanks for your responce guys,

 

 

Pete Ashby

Thanks Pete, i'll try & borrow a vac guage....

compressions were as follows before i did the valve gear.....

Cyl 1 50psi Cyl 2 40psi Cyl 3 130psi Cyl 4 90psi Cyl 5 135psi Cyl 6 70psi And After.....

 

140psi 130psi 135psi 128psi 140psi 140psi

what symptoms am i looking from the vac guage..??

 

 

 

Thanks everyone for your help, keep the sugestions & ideas coming...

All the best, 2door..

The vacuum gauge can be used to diagnose all manner of ills not sure how this will post. If you can't read it type 'using a vacuum gauge' into google and click images there are a number of charts listed just make sure you do the tests on a warm engine. Used in conjunction with your compression tests it can help to narrow the field in terms of what may be wrong.

Pete

That seems to be readable for the Smiths chart click on the chart it'll open in another window, then click on it again and you should see a magnifying glass appear click it and it comes up large.

Hook up an undamped vacuum gauge below the throttle plate (about £15 off your favorite auction site) and see what that is telling you before you change anything.

( If you'r not sure how to read the various needle responses a quick google will give you the responses for a whole range of faults).

The advantage of using the gauge is it gives the ability to observe the function of the engine and it's various interrelated components, ie: valves, ignition system, rings, head gasket, carb settings ect in the dynamic state and most importantly in the physical condition that the engine is in currently.

As an aside it's worth remembering that workshop manuals give data for factory fresh engines running on fuel blends that were current 75 years ago.

Pete

Danny,

Try these people, http://www.vintagebrassplates.co.uk/ I have not used them but going by their website it looks the sort of thing they would do.

Thanks for the link Richard looks like a very useful service

Pete

Hello Matey good to have you here :thumbsup: you'll recognize a few familiar faces at the bar....... Oh by the way new members have to stand a round mines a pint (as usual)

Farmer Pete

Ha, thanks for posting a picture of my slat Pete, I applied the broad arrow and numbers, in memory of my Dad who served out in India and Burma in 1944 to 47 and was in the Royal Signals. It's a good talking point , as not many vehicles are currently restored with this type of cencus number being displayed.

Regards

Keith

Hello Chap thought that might flush you out, how long have you been lurking around here :-D nice to see you on this forum, are you going to post an introduction in the introduction section ?

regards

Pete

Photo of Agent O's slat attached showing the broad arrow census number

Pete

Hi Sean,

275698 was in a batch of census numbers that were not taken up, so this number must be something else. Ah, I think vehicles in Middle East in early war had broad arrow and smaller numbers preceding, or may be India. These numbers were more of a registration as they are not census numbers.

Your right Richard the broad arrow mark was used for registration numbers on vehicles used in the East

pete

Welcome Rene you might find this site useful https://www.facebook.com/groups/424561644379118/ a lot of information about British operated jeeps including a large number of record cards worth a look

Pete