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Posts posted by Scammell4199
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Thanks for the science lesson.
Yes burning thousands of gallons of diesel to farm ethanol producing crops is really green! its like power stations burning biomass thats been shipped half way round the world.
So worst case we can use avgas in our petrol burning vehicles because thats pure petrol - correct?
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So are our fuel systems being eaten away now then?
Also, is there a distinction between bioethanol and oil derived ethanol in terms of its ability to eat fuel systems?
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So is E5 what is currently at the pump in UK?
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Thanks very much. Think I'm going to make it single skin for now and see how it goes.
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PM sent
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Reduced to £20
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Morning all,
I'm looking at making a new stainless silencer for our Pioneer. I cut the old one open and it appears to be of a double wall thickness construction, but the gap between the walls is not the passage for gases.
There are two baffles inside and thats it.
I am wanting to contruct a cylinder and weld indentical baffles inside.
What i'm wondering is the reason for the double wall thickness and do i need to reinstate this? Should there be any form of packing inside?
You can see from the picture the double wall construction.
Can anyone lend any advice?
Thanks, Richard
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On 9/6/2018 at 6:43 PM, Surveyor said:
Reading the response I need to do some more research before attempting anything. I am looking at small scale maybe 1m at a time. And occasionally, so wonder on shelf life of these products
They have the Upol Aicd#8 stuff as an aerosol in Halfords. Good for small bits and to do a test.
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I've used this stuff quite a bit and I used it on my Jeep with good results. I've had a tin on the shelf for several years went to use it a couple of weeks ago and all fine.
I have recently re-skinned the Scammells cab using galv sheet and I'm considering using either the Upoxy Super Etch or Acid#8 if anyone has any useful comments on that plan.
Thanks, Richard
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I was told Upoxy Super Etch is 2 part not 2 pack, because it is isocyanate and chromate free.
I stand to be corrected.
Richard
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Looks great. I'd really like a Weasel.
Good luck with it and I look forward to seeing progress.
Richard
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Some of the replies here suggest that this E10 petrol is already in circulation???
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I was told or read somewhere it was exactly the same tubing as used for the power steering on a Ford Mondeo. Never fact checked it tho.
There is certainly someone on here who has replaced tubes.
Good luck, Richard
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Survey completed & submitted
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Hi,
I'm afraid i haven't a clue what its off.
Its 8.75" overall width and 7.0 between the flanges.
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Good luck with your project.
I went to have a look at one this week, but there wasn't enough there to make a project from.
Richard
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I spoke to Morris Oils some time ago and they said 50HD was SAE90.
They converted other oils listed on the Pioneer lube chart as follows:
30HD - SAE30 (Engine oil)
C600 - SAE140
I'm totally open to correction on that though, and if it is wrong would like to know before i go filling up all my newly rebuilt drivetrain bits.
Richard
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No markings on the half shaft i'm afraid.
Any takers?
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I have a wheel, hub and tyre that came with a wartime trailer I bought recently. It looks to have been cut off an axle with a gas axe. It has a hydraulic connection (presumably for brakes) and handbrake linkage attached. If anyone recognises what it's from and wants to make an offer, please do so. Located in Somerset.
Thanks, Richard
Engine Paint colour
in British Vehicles
Posted
My feeling was that the engine being a bought in item (to Scammell), so it would have come in the manufacturers standard colour.
Indeed if restoring just about any vehicle to a post war 50s 60s and probably later spec the engine would be eau-de-nil.