Scammell4199

Looking fantastic. Great job Sam.

All the best, Richard

You haven't got the neate brake on have you?

Are all the brake cables around the diff slack?

Good luck, Richard

I've always had good results from https://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/ and https://www.vintagebearings.co.uk/

If the leather is just a flat piece of leather contact these guys https://www.par-group.co.uk/ they cut out new leather seals for my Scammells back hub seals.

Lookin good Peter 👍

2 hours ago, 67burwood said:

Hi Richard 

feel free to ask as many paint questions as you like, I have had a lot of help on this thread from other members and plenty of good advice, it may be worth while starting another thread On paint as there will be lots of interest. 

I’ve had a similar experience, I purchased the correct thinners from War paints and the finish also came out Matt, it was a warm day and I think my air pressure was to high, the finish was almost rough to the touch and Matt, I’ve since used the paint that I accidentally mixed with cellulose thinners on small parts and the finish is satin and smooth, however it was cooler and I had adjusted the air pressure, I am still learning myself the art of spray painting but someone on the forum will tell us both where we went wrong. 
 

Seamus 

Hi Seamus,

It’s good that you’ve had the same experience as me, and that you’ve found a solution. Of course the good thing about using cellulose thinners is its dirt cheap.

I was talking to another a friend yesterday about painting and he does a lot priming at his place of work because they do blasting and he said he painted some railings once when there was snow on the ground and got a lovely finish. Think my previous idea that the warmer the weather the better was probably wrong. 

I’ve got a batch of small bits to do for the Scammell so I’ll try the cellulose thinner. 

Cheers, Richard

Doing a great job, will be nice to see it on the road.

Don't want to hijack your thread, perhaps we could do with a painting thread, but i was interested by some peoples comments regarding painting, in particular what Pete Ashby said. I too use the Warpaints paint with 15% sheen after trying numerous others with differing results. I've always used the thinners that Warpaints sell and its always come out quite well, until i was painting the winch for our scammell a couple weeks ago and it came out quite matt. The pro painter chap next door said it could be because it was a particularly hot day. I might have to give using standard cellulose thinners a go. I was recommended to use Max Meyer 4310 thinner. I'm no pro when it comes to painting, what i do know is self taught and i learn by trial and error, so always interested in what others with more experience have to say.

Thanks, Richard

Just bumping this to the top in the hope someone might be interested.

Hi, yes its a 6LW.

I recommend Gardner Enthusiast in Oxford for piston rings. He gets them made, all the other dealers buy them from him and double the price.

Other than that theres Walsh Engineering in Manchester - http://www.gardnerdiesel.co.uk/

But i got most of my bits from Gardner Marine Diesels - https://www.gardnermarine.com/ they are friendly and helpful.

Good luck, if you need any more pointers give me a shout i'm not far from you.

Richard

Nice work. I've always quite liked these.

Have you got a trailer for it?

Richard

Reassembled most of the winch yesterday

Morning all, so i'm dragging this thread back up. I've nearly completed re-drawing my wiring diagram as i'm approaching the point where i'll need it. So, first of all what do you all think? I still need to add bulb wattages and wire sizes, i'll need some help with wire sizes. I've done all the lights as 24v and kept 12v just for the horn, windscreen wipers, interior lights and inspection lamp sockets. Secondly, i have this small electrical junction box with bayonet fittings that fits on the bracket for the axle lamp. Does anyone know how this thing is integrated into the wiring? The contacts inside just connect the two sockets together, and the black plastic thing is a blanking plug.

ok great. be in contact when this mess is over

Crewkerne.

Granted probably not a good time to travel at the moment, but if you want it i can put back for you.

Bump. No one interested in this wheel? only £20.

Or does anyone know what it might be off. Must be military i presume.

Richard

Well done and welcome.

Can you post some pics?

My workshop is about half and hour from my house, so gutted i can't use this time to make some progress on our Scammell resto.

All the best, Richard

Really looking forward to seeing this on the road. Can't be many about.

Best of luck with it.

Richard

On 3/6/2020 at 10:29 PM, the DT guy said:

evening Richard

sadly the T wont be ready for A&E this year even though that was my full intention but it just hasn't worked out.

so i'll be going with Jason Jefferies and his 981/rogers.  

As each year goes by I have every intention of having the Scammell ready but for one reason or another it doesn’t happen. Flippin work gets in the way of us enjoying our toys! 

I know Jason, so I’ll meet up with you there and enjoy a chat about big green toys. 

Cracking work Sam.

Are you bringing it to A&E?

Richard

Hi Aubrey, welcome to the forum and thats a lovely looking Jeep.

You should come join in our little informal gathering of MVs at Haselbury Mill on June 28th. We've been doing it every year for god knows how long and we used to hold it at the Windwhistle Inn before that.

All the best, Richard

I have been mulling over whether to put MM camo on our Scammell when its done, but I really don't want to paint cab roof, bonnet locker tops etc in black. I also want to have an invasion star which some would argue never appeared with MM.

Still umming and ahhhing.

Richard

Thats a shame, he had some lovely NOS bits. I'd like to get my hands on that steering wheel

11 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

Hi Richard,

The Dingo did run on pneumatic runflat tyres originally, same type of tyre as a Ferret in construction. Later on another version of the tyre was introduced that did away with having a tube as the casing was much thicker and with a bead spacer there was still a cavity inside to give the tyre some absorbance. They are often described as 'solid', this is a misnomer. I fitted some truck tyres of the correct size to one on instructions from a customer and they performed perfectly on the road and despite having road tread pattern I could not get it stuck in mud. I note that this vehicle was recently sold and described as having a good ride. 

regards, Richard

Thanks Richard.

My missus wants a Dingo after i introduced her to one on the Boar Tour last year, but think i'll be getting something on tracks before that happens.

11 hours ago, John Pearson said:

I have only just seen this query. I have had a dingo for nearly 30 years and can only agree that they are wonderful. They are simple to operate and maintain (compared to other ww2 armour!) but spares are no longer plentiful. Major problem in using them is the lack of tyres. They use solid 7:00 by 18s which are all but unavailable so you need to bear the tyre condition in mind when looking for one to buy and also consider seriously limiting  the annual mileage driven.

Hi John,

Just for my own personal interest and it may help others here - do they have to use solid tyres? obviously they ran on solid tyres originally to eliminate the hazard of punctures or shot out tyres on the battlefield. Could pneumatic tyres of the same size not be substituted now? Maybe they are equally rare i don't know.

Thanks, Richard

9 hours ago, Nrhampton said:

That’s spot on thank you Richard,  I have a drivers seat frame that is usable but no passenger frame, the pulley needed is the one the cable runs over at the top of the sliding jib.

Many thanks

No probs, anytime.

I'm afraid I don't have spare pulley or passenger seat frame.

You're more than welcome to come visit and take any dims and photos you want.

BR, Richard

Seat Back, Drivers seat frame and Passenger seat frame