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Scammell4199

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Posts posted by Scammell4199

  1. Looking to draw on others experience here. Wondering if anyone has tried installing glass in windscreen frames themselves?

    The double glazing place that did our jeep many years ago, and made a very good job of it, now won’t do them due to a change in the law apparently.

    I’ve got to do our Scammell windscreens soon, and would like to do it myself, so wondering if anyone has any tips and tricks. I was thinking along the lines of almost filling the frame with black windscreen sealant and pushing the glass in with something like cardboard wrapped around the edges to keep the glass centralised in the frame. Thoughts and experiences please.

    Thanks in advance. Richard 

  2. Bit of an update.

    We're nearly there with the back body. I'm going to leave it until its on the vehicle to install the drop down doors, just so i can make space in the workshop soon as poss.

    Spent the weekend making up the lids for the lockers. I couldn't find hinges the same as the original or even anything that i could modify to look like the original so made some from scratch. That was a time consuming task.

    In in the interests to getting the finish line as quickly as possible now that its in sight and problems with my big compressor, i'm getting the last bits of blasting done commercially, and have a batch of small bits for the back body i'm going to drop off this week. 

    I've been put onto a local chap with a Foden EKA, so i'm hoping i can get him to come and lift the body on.

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    • Like 8
  3. 22 hours ago, radiomike7 said:

    Having the body swinging from a crane will make lining the bolts up a lot easier than having to get it in exactly the right place with a forklift or telehandler. The crane we used to remove the Explorer body had a weight indicator that showed just over 2 tons, the Pioneer one should be slightly lighter due to the manual lifting winch.

    Yeah thats what i'm thinking. I'd reckoned on about 1.5 tons. It won't have the sliding jib in when its lifted cos we'll be using the roller as a slinging point.

  4. I lifted it off with a telehandler as you'll see on the first page of my thread, but that was when it was just the framework so an abundance of slinging points and i wasn't worried about messing up my paint job. Also to get it on without knocking it or the vehicle i like the idea of using a mobile crane because it can hoist straight down whereas with a telehandler of hiab crane you have to use a combination of movements to go straight down. Plus its a fairly tight squeeze getting the front legs down between the main winch and back of the cab. 

    If i can satisfy myself that the jib top roller and winch drum are suitable slinging points i think thats what we'll do. I have a local crane hire company in mind who have a small mobile on a 7.5 tonner chassis so should be fairly cheap, but in the interests of keeping things military has anyone local to yeovil got a foden EKA or a militant?

  5. 11 hours ago, 67burwood said:

    Do you have extended forks for the fork lift? Would it be possible to support the rear body with slings from the rear and guide it on? Not sure on the counter balance 🤔

    No i don't have extended forks and I don't think lifting it with one forklift from behind would work anyway. Slinging points are difficult to find now that the floor is bolted down, thats why i thought the jib top roller and the winch drum would be good candidates.

    If i lift it with a forklift under each side, it will be within about 6 inches of the tips of the forks so not much margin for error.

  6. I've been giving some thought to how i'm going to lift the rear body onto the vehicle, and interested in how others have done it. I thought about lifting it with a forklift under each side and reversing the vehicle in under, but think it might be a bit dodgy and i'd have to do all the manouvering rather than watching and guiding it into position.

    I'd like to get a mobile crane in so it can be hoisted straight down, but not sure where to sling it so as not to damage paintwork. Thought about slinging it round the roller that the jib slides on and round the winch drum. Thoughts?

    • Like 1
  7. Evening all,

    Wondering if someone can identify this wheel and hub. Its a 10.50-13 tyre. I'm posting it here because i'm assuming its British.

    The hub has the outer races of taper roller bearings still fitted.

    If have it going spare and is available if anyone wants it.

    Richard

     

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  8. 21 hours ago, Rootes75 said:

    Is the back body frame brush or spray painted?

    All sprayed. Theres a few nooks and crannies i'm going to have to do with a brush.

    21 hours ago, Niels v said:

    Richard, can you take some pictures of the construction of the underbody box 

     

    I'll try to remember to get some this weekend. The sides and floor you see here are all new and we have all original top for it.

  9. Bit more progress on the Scammell.

    Recently had the back body frame blasted and primed, then it came back to us for top coat and we've started painting and assembling the woodwork.

    Also got the crane winch all back together.

    I also bought new ally number plates so she's starting to get her identity back.

     

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    • Like 6
  10. Nah, whack it through. The thinned paint will find its way to the bottom of the chunks. 

    One thing i found the hard way - where i was painting something large and re-filling the gun several times i was re-using the same filter. Don't do this, fresh filter for every fill of the gun, because the yellow pigment in green is heavier than the other pigments and can settle out in thinned paint and spray little yellow flecks in your lovely paint job.

    • Like 1
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