Grego

Hey Ron, I'm just wondering if you figured out what was going on with your Tilly.

The gap is intentional so it compresses the rubber against the printed parts to seal. I would put some RTV in the gap between the two where you add the small length of wire before putting the shells on. If you don't use the M2 screw, then I would clamp them together until the RTV dries. I don't think I have the CAD anymore, but I can probably easily recreate it when I have a free moment tomorrow. I have access to a HP jet fusion printer that prints Nylon18, so I haven't tried to print these with a FDM printer.

I'm sure we all know how lovely corrosion on any electrical connections are.

It could also be a weak connection or intermediate grounding issue from the high voltage line from the coil to the distributor. If the wire is old and the insolation cracked, it could be grounding out.

You could supply the 12V coil from a separate battery or any other 12V supply to isolate it from the starter to see if the starter is indeed drawing too much current. Does the starter sound very labored when spinning?

I know I'm late in replaying but I would drill each stud and add split pins instead of any thread locker. I say this only because these studs and nuts are submerged in the flywheel fluid. I use ISO15, and some people have used 30 weight ATF. ATF is a detergent and would defiantly degrade the tread locker in my opinion. Keeping with a mechanical lock (split pins) would not degrade in any oil. I believe you're talking about these bolts:

FV169424.STL Both sides are in the file. Thread one side for a M2, or I guess you can just clamp them when you glue them together. Good luck.

I've used the correct size gauge pins cut down to the proper length to replace 3 of the 880 loose needle bearings in my Ferret. So far no issues.

It's from 1959. It was a Mk1, then converted to a Mk2, then Mk2/3. According to it's service records from Bovington it served various regiments in the BAOR until it was sold off on the 1990's.

Ahh ok. Kind of an odd symbol for that, but I'll make sure to repaint it.

It's on the left side engine cover when opened. Found it while cleaning of some old paint. It looks like a white rectangle with a red circle? Looks like the flag of Japan turned 90 degrees. I plan on painting it back.

Thanks for the links, but I'm looking for the No.80 grenades in particular since those are the ones used in the ferret.

Interesting read! Thanks for posting it.

I hear you. I'll be making some models one I get my hands on one. My smoke launcher tubes are dummies, but I don't know if they are the correct ID or not.

I can't seem to find a source for them. Everywhere I look on-line they are sold out or discontinued. https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=7611 So I decided to make my own from 2 Lucas Quick Disconnect for CWB351 (https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=1282&t=Terminal_Female_Pack_of_10_CWB350_), some wire, RTV and two 3D printed shells I quickly designed to mimic the outside geometry as best I could. I'll let you know how they work out. If anyone is interested in the .STL files I'll share them. They are glued together and the small M2 screw is removed once it's dry. I did beep it out and the screw was touching the wire. This was the first try, so next time I'll make sure it clears the wire and won't conduct. I'll test fit it in a holder tonight.