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welbike

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Posts posted by welbike

  1. Ok, I'll make a little update, as I'm far behind here!  this was April 2018.

    Here's what was left of my battery box, checked it on the drawings, that I had scaled up:

    IMG_09455.JPG

    And then had one made by a friend, came out very nice!!

    003238.jpg

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    IMG_9024.jpg

    And painted;

    IMG_9510.JPG

    IMG_9657_1_.JPG

    IMG_9662_1_.JPG

    So for now a repro seat installed, original still needs more restoring and painting, and canvas upholstery to be fitted.

    More in the next post.

    Alex

    • Like 2
  2. 9 hours ago, Ron said:

    Yes that's the one Steve.

    Actually Lex when Martyn did mine, he had no idea about this until I gave him a copy of the document.

     

    Ron

     

    Ok, mine was done by him at least 10 years ago, so it will not have it!

    Just bead blasted the body, and will assemble soon.

    Cheers,

    Lex

    IMG_2165.jpg

  3. Ok, I have found a Jet block with the hole, but will strip the carb that is on the bike now first, that was done by Martyn, so it will be plugged up already! 

    But better make sure the carb is 100% as it's a real pain to remove once the tank is on the bike Steve!

    Cheers,

    Lex

  4. Yes, I agree with Ron, but it also depends who the supplier of the plates is, and what material they are made off.  Re. the carbs, I have found 2 numbers for the G3WO, 276B/1J and 276/400R, the last number is also a postwar M20 number, strange!  And what is the exact difference in the jetblock? have some NOS ones, and like to fit the right one.

    Lex

  5. Nice work Steve! and indeed a nice puller, I found one of these for magneto bearings, works a treat!

    Also something I always warn people about, to check the piston ring gap, sometimes when the cylinder is bored, and the right size for the piston, the rings are too tight, and when warm, it will seize the piston, have had it a couple of times that the machinist didn't check that!

    Lex

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  6. I haven't changed the guides in a long time, so can't remember but I think they did not have a ridge to stop them from going in too far? do you have the special spacer under the exhaust valve spring cup? there is a manual somewhere, that says, how far to press them in. Re. removal of the old ones, it might be better to machine them out untill wafer thin, and then just pull them out, or break them, then, no material from the head will be removed, and the new guides being too loose.

    Lex

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