64EK26

Hi Just a thought, can you change gears easily with no ‘kickback’. I seem to recall (one of the Ferrets I occasionally work on) there was some odd noises which went away when after the preselect bands in the gear box were correctly set up, these can wear over a period. The procedure to do this is in the manual. Also when the engine was taken out (a long time ago) we found odd spanners, spare nuts and bolts, and some coins. As noted if you have anything in the floorpan, items like this may well have moved and are now rattling around, the noise level/tone will change with the gear selected and engine speed. Also as noted drain the oil and look for any debris (hopefully you don’t find any). If you find loads of bits, I wouldn’t run it in case you do any further damage Good luck Richard

Hi The control looks a bit strange as I thought it went straight up (from and MWR ?) Cheers Richard

Hi Has anyone got some photos, dimensions etc of the following power pump items on an MWC The lever mechanism in the cab that operates the PTO The Pump itself and how it is attached to the chassis, (including the chain drive) Where the piping goes The make and model of the pump I have the details of the PTO, the prop shaft , the two support brackets and the chain drive gears on the drive shaft. Cheers Richard

Hi Thanks Jeremy and Danny... There are no data plates on the vehicle (I think that they were removed a long time ago ) I did find the remains of the chassis number stamped on the frame between the passenger side door steps which were MWC56??8. So could be one of 100 vehicles (56008 through 56998). If records exist it may be possible to determine which one my vehicle actually is as there were much fewer MWC's produced than MWD's. In the mean time I will be having another look at the chassis number to see if I can read what the missing digits are Cheers Richard

Hi I am currently restoring a Bedford MWC... The chassis number is MWC56??8, so it was built in early 1944 Still trying to read two numbers, this might be possible with better lighting. Is there any way I can possibly find the contract number and Z number ? Any help would be much appreciated Cheers Richard

Hi I am currently restoring a Bedford MWC... The leaf springs need some attention, top leaf on one of the rears broken, and a few cracked leafs on the front. Others are badly worn Does anyone have details of the springs, including free camber ? Cheers Richard

Been busy this weekend... Luvax’s ready for new bushes and painting Dated 9/43 , 3/43, 5/43 and one unreadable Front axle fully stripped down, King Pins bit tarnished but OK, the Near side was very stiff, but this was caused by the shims rusting solid. The brake cylinders look the same, I thought that they were handed

Bit more progress... The cab has come off, the top half was totally rotten... The florr frame is fairly complete, and I think that most of it is original.... but I am not sure about the bits where the bottoms of the doors are... and not sure how it and the front door pillar is fitted... Also... front axle at home for refurb

Hi Richard Thanks, yes it is for the MWC that I am currently restoring (see restoration thread) Cheers Richard

New project, plenty of time (retired), not yet broke (but heading that way) :-) This turned up courtesy of Rory Ballard A couple of good illustrations of the Stellar filters (I am looking for two of these) An early MWC (Aeroscreen) A 150 gallon trailer Also this which notes there is another manual which would be nice to get hold of “Instructions for use with water tank truck and water tank trailer” (will speak to Clive fv1609) later On the MWC front, finally managed to get the diff drive flange nut off, so I can replace the seal, and have started to refurb the Luvax shock absorbers

Hope this is in the right section..... Has anyone totally stripped down and refurbished a Luvax shock absorber, if so what is in them? Also what fluid should they be filled with, oil?, Hydraulic Fluid?, Brake Fluid? or what Cheers Richard

Busy few days.. Finally got the front axle off, but still can’t get the spring shackles off. One king pin is very very stiff, left it soaking in oil and filled up with grease (both sides only had one grease nipple on them). Will see what they actually look like in due course. Back axle nearly stripped down, just got take off the front flange that connects to the prop shaft to replace the seal (I think the bearing is OK). Brake cylinders may be salvageable with just honing the bores, but may have to be re-sleeved. The bisectors are all ok. The inside of the brakes are painted yellow, original ?. Will have to decide soon what colour it should be Had a further look at the springs, the one that is broken is thinner than the same on the other side. I am pondering whether to get a new set of springs made, but I can’t as yet find the spring spec, I can measure them, but don’t know what the free camber should be. NOS gearbox bearing (off eBay) turned up this week so, I will soon be able to start the gearbox re-build

Hi Picked up the water bowser trailer today (a long long drive) using a small car transporter It has the hand pumping and power pumping plates in the rear and the tank is not in bad shape, will have to decide which tank I end up using. The trailer will come in handy to move the bowser around so it can be worked on independently. The trailer chassis is interesting look like a cut down bit of chassis (possibly a Morris)

Busy day at the shed (but rather fustrating).. Wanted to get the front axle off, managed to get some of the 'U' bolts free, but two would't budge.. so decided to drop the springs off and tackle them where I could get at them more easily. Front spring pins came out no problem, the back ones not yet.. do the back ones have splines on them like the front ones.

Hi Moderators please move if in wrong place I would like to get in contact with the owner of this vehicle - according to the DVLA it still exists , but may have changed registration if it has been restored and the original paperwork lost Please PM me as I have something that belongs to this vehicle Cheers Richard

Thanks Jeremy, as noted in PM's, the MWC rear springs are different to those of a MWD/MWR. The fronts are the same, I haven't checked these yet, but on first inspection they looked OK Rear springs stripped down (loads of rust and some badly pitted) but no other broken ones which is good. I will make a propper assessment when they have been fully cleaaned. What did surprise me is that the spacers for the spring clips were made of copper, was this standard?

RF=Run Flat should have thought of this ...doh (thanks Mick) Hubs off – look OK will have to change oil seals and the propshaft seal as this feels like it has a flat spot (probably from resting in one place for a long time). Crown wheel and half shafts look fine (no nasties in the rear diff) These are now back home along with the springs so I can more readily work on them. Check out brake bisector and cylinders etc. Strip down springs (and find al least one new leaf) Are the seals a standard size or do you have to find NOS ones ?

Thanks John... I have used Jones springs in the past for my 1963 FFR Rover8, they did sag a bit after a couple of years, but I do carry a lot of kit in the back of it. They did give a good service, so when I am ready I will will give Carl (Jones) a call A little more progress... All the nuts from one of my two spare split rim tyres are off, the other which is dated 1941 I can't get them to budge yet, not even with a 4 foot breaker bar with 3/4" drive socket. As a last resort I will take them to a truck place so they can be removed with an air tool. SANKEY Dated 7/41 ?00x16 RF Out interest what does the RF mean, the tyre is a 10.5x16 road tyre with a nice WD mark on it

Busy down the shed today Firstly new pins in gear box selector, so no longer stirring porridge Will finish them off when gear box is all back together. Missing one layshaft bearing, anyone know what the modern equivalent SKF bearings are – see note Bearing 1: Open Roller where the inner rollers run on a shaft , original part number SKF 1.130508, The equivalent to this is an SKF NU207ECP which appears to fit Bearing 2: Open Roller where the inner rollers run on a shaft, original part number SKF 1.130513, on the bearing that was in the gearbox is an SKF FC120C, which is the same as HYATT OR 1206. I purchased an SKF NU207ECP which I thought would be the equivalent but the inner does not fit on the shaft, its appx 0.020” oversize (shaft is too big by this much and the case hardening is not thick enough to grind it down to fit). The OD of the inner ring of the NU207ECP I have is 37.49mm and the shaft that it is intended to run on is 38mm. What is the correct bearing replacement or is it case of getting NOS? Back Axle off :-) Only managed to shear one of the ‘U’ bolts which would have needed replacing anyway Rear Springs off (none if the shackle pin retaining bolts were in place) One big problem :-( , top leaf of Off Side Spring broken on the edge of the spring saddle. I haven’t stripped the springs so others may be cracked/broken Richard

Thanks sparky - PM sent Busy day in the shed 1) All wheels off (I did remember that the Near Side are Left Hand Thread) 2) All Split rim nuts removed and re-fitted with plenty of copper grease (tyres not yet removed, but I will get a tyre place to do this when needed) 3) Caps on Front Axle free (Two different sizes of nut) 4) Rear half shaft retainers free (nuts did't come off but the studs came out see photo)

Gearbox casing all cleaned up ready for painting, all shaftts, gears etc all cleaned up. Just waiting for a bearing to arrive before re-assembly. The gates on gearbox selector aren't at all bad A NOS gearstick from Chris Morter should solve the problem of selecting reverse gear. Had a look at the Luvax shock absorbers, (only have 3) , but which three have I got ? (Images not to scale) Up to the shed at the week end to see if I can get the wheel nuts off and have a good look at the axles.

Been looking at fuel pump and gearbox and other bits needed to get the engine running... I was pleasantly surprised that the diaphragm and valves are the same as that on my Series Land Rover. So no problem getting parts :-) Finally got the gear box apart. The rear layshaft bearing will need replacing as well as the shaft re-grinding. So now looking for some suitable roller bearings. Also been looking at what other bits I will need to get a running engine... Also any ideas where you can get bypass oil filters ?

More Photos Apologies for quality as she is tucked up right next to a 25pdr

Slow progress this week.. Had to make a special tool to get the gear selector forks back on. Retaining the ball bearing and spring whilst sliding the guide rail through it is virtually impossible without it. Can selecet 1,2,3,&4 but not reverse, I think that this is due to the catch mechanisim at the base of the gear lever. Please could someone post a photo of what the base of the gear lever should look like on a box that is working The gear box is a in a partially dissassembled state as there is a lot of play in the lay shaft, so will be changing the bearings, once I have workrd out exactly what they are and have got a sitable replacement.

Hi As requested a couple of photos 1st as it arrived At Southsea D Day (June 2014) Since then I have done the front and back panels. Thse side bins still need to be done, I will post the latest state tommorrow when I have got back from the shed. does come with some ancillaries (two off large suction hoses and other bits) I have documented all the work I have done Free free to ask any questions Cheers Richard