Swill1952xs

I would have thought it unlikely the cold start was stuck in. More than likely to be an injector problem. I drive a truck with a Perkins Eagle (Rolls Royce) TX 340. I have had injectors stick on that one. My problem was caused by rust in the head casting putting uneven pressure on the injector body. Once they had been removed and cleaned up, they seemed to work ok when they were put back in. If you take the injectors out, and they can be sods to get out, have them tested to see if they are working properly. If they aren't spraying and only squirting in jets of diesel, you will get a lot of smoke and misfiring on startup and black smoke on acceleration when warm. No doubt a set of new injectors will cure the problem, but don't spend money unnecessarily. Failing that, your comment about the breather mod may indicate cylinder bore wear or ring problems leading to lack of compression. Does it breathe heavily when it is running?

Sorry to hear about your lack of employment. It must be really depressing and demoralizing, especially if you had the sort of income that isn't readily found in new employment. :noyay: What worries me is that employers may exploit new staff by offering much lower wages than a job is worth, and then expect you to be grateful for just having a job. The company I work for is as busy as hell. Overheads are extortionate and we sometimes make very little profit from fuel sales. We think we are sitting comfortably, but you never know what is round the corner. Our bosses have Hotels in Austria and could easily pull the plug at any time, leaving us out in the cold. The last time I got made redundant; I tried applying for jobs but the pay was crap, so I started off my own car repair business with offers of work from members of The Jaguar Enthusiasts Club to which I belonged. Word of mouth soon brought me more work and the business was always busy. Sadly my weakness was failing to keep accurate records of the time I spent doing the jobs, and didn't make as good a living at it as I should have. I got fed up living from one set of bills to the next, trying to avoid going VAT registered, interference from the Council, and all the other busy bodies. Fortunately my Albion donor is a half hour walk from my house so it isn't impossible to get to, and there's a lot I can do before I need to spend any money. Good luck with your job hunting, but I suggest you take a good look at yourself and assess what skills you have and how you could make use of them. Is there a service you could offer friends, relatives or acquaintances that would give you an income. If you start off doing something and people like you, word will spread quickly and soon you will be independant. Word of mouth is the best advertising, and there's the added bonus of not having to pay income tax for the first year. Don't forget to pay your national insurance though. Whern I was self employed; I only paid about 8 -10 pounds a month. Good luck with your job hunting.......... buy a cheap caravan and get someone to tow it and transport you to your vehicles. You can stay there all week and get some serious work done. Maybe you could sell it and use some of the money to live on and buy another to restore.... there ya go, you are already in business. :goodidea: :yay:

And now for a sensible reply............. In our Hydropacks on our tankers we use Comma LIC 10 hydraulic oil which is suitable for crane use. I used to use Mobil DTE oils,,,DTE 30 if I remember rightly. If you go to most tractor dealers stores, or a forklift suppliers and ask for an oil suitable for a tractor mounted hedge cutter or independant hydraulics loader, they will sell you a suitable oil or they may have a list of recommended grades for your crane . You will be ok with the Comma oil. It's a clear colourless mineral oil and suitable for most hydraulics. Some motor factors keep the oil in 20L containers too.

Thanks for the info......... praps I'll google it and see what it says.:thumbsup:

How the hell did you get that in your garden fer gawd's sake. Trees in front and trees behind............. does it fly or sumfink. That bladdy tree in front of it has grown since you started so it won't come out that way. Spose you could drive it across the neighbours gardens when they are out. Wouldn't do that much damage really I suppose......:-D

I wouldn't mind using ordinary steel if I could get good quality stuff. As I said earlier, the stuff car panel suppliers sell; if any area of it is left unprotected; will rot through in three to four years. It seems to have a very open 'grain' and although it is very easy to bend and work with; it rusts within hours of being welded. Must be recycled washing machine metal. It isn't that cheap to buy either. :-(

I'm getting really peed off with work at the moment...... it gets in the way of the important things in life like my trucks. Since I have gone from a salary to being paid hourly, my bosses have decided that I need to do more work in the depot and that means working from 7:30 to 5:30. When I was doing more driving I used to start at 2:30 in the morning and if all went well I could finish at about one and go and work on my truck. Bloo*y typical. :argh: Er.......... do you or anyone else know where I would find a Militant 3 way tipper body...... an Edbro one..........because it is the same body as mine...... and I desperately want one. Surely someone must have one lurking in the corner of their yard some where. I have a feeling that I will never find one though, but I still keep hoping.:-(

I'm beginning to get quite excited by the rebuild, and buying the donor truck was just about the best thing I ever did. Between the two of them; they have most of the parts I need, and the original truck appears not to have been cannibalised abused or stripped of its original fittings. Ok some will have to be remade, but at least I have patterns to work from also there are the photo's you've been kind enough to post up for me, for which I'm very grateful. :thumbsup: The roof from the complete truck will be restored and used again. The cab panels are skinned with sheet steel folded around the angle iron frame in a 'C' shape and are not welded to it, so with the exception of the compound curve front corners; I'm seriously considering re skinning it. The problem being finding some good quality steel sheet. Most of the sheet steel available is more like sh*t steel. I was wondering whether to use some steel with what is known as "Zintec" coating. That is obviously zinc coated and has an etched sort of finish so it should take paint well. One thing I may have difficulty finding in a size large enough; is the sound deadener felt stuck to the inside of the back panel of the cab. Ideally it needs to come off a roll wide enough to cover the height of the panel itself. It is sandwiched between the angle Iron frame and the sheet steel. Normal sound deadener material only comes in small squares and I don't want it either to look like it has been tiled and have it all peel off on the first hot day of the year. :-( Work is a pain in the bum......... now I've started, all I want to do is get on with it. :-(

Right.................... now for the porn shots. :-D Do ya wanna see my underneath :cool2: Looking forward......... the front axle is a bit skinny for a 20 tonner...... must have been made out of some good steel. The beergox casing is all aluminium, and the sump is a massive ally casting too. The rear axles are permanently linked worm and wheel diffs. I don't know if Albion made these or not. Braking is full air Westinghouse equipment. Axle travel is limited by cable stops at the end of the springs. Suspension is two inverted semi elliptic springs.

I just love this picture, and the speedo works too. Note the mileage.......thought to be genuine. Look at the air gauge 100 psi and the way the air builds up would put a lot of new trucks to shame. I'm really lucky to have an ex quarry truck with two of these. The o/s one works if you talk to it nicely, and the other one makes a grumbling noise when it is operated. A little note for the driver on the o/s door.....ie, dont try tipping the three way tipper with the pins in opposite corners.:argh:

Fifty six years old and the headlamps still work on main and dip beam. (Can you see the r send of my tanker :-D my bosses may as well let me keep it in the yard..... all they are interested in is an endless procession of new cars.) This is my best side...... at least the cab door frame is still intact. The nearside has suffered very badly from being parked outside since 1991, mostly because of rain coming in from the observers hatch. I'm deeply ashamed of the way it was neglected. This was as a result of the "Oh well, it wont be long now before it's restored now" syndrome. Oh well, 'spose at least not having a door frame makes photographing the engine somewhat easier. Note the triplex chain driven compressor. I don't know what model this engine is , but it was overhauled by MOD workshops in 1952? The engine in the other Albion is a direct driven compressor still using the same auxiliary shaft as its power source.

Today |i have been moving my complete Albion to its new home next to where I work, and continuing to dismantle the donor truck I had to cut the outer wings from the sides of the cab. They were supposed to be made in one piece and bolted to the cab frame. As they had been repaired before, they had an extra section of wing welded over the top of the original one. As shown in the next picture I will post up some pictures of the complete truck tomorrow when I have more time and patience. My computer and especially photobucket have drained my enthusiasm tonight. Catch ya later dudes. :thumbsup:

The first thing I'd do with it is open it. Was it locked? Do you have the keys for it? Is it heavy because it's still full of money? Does it rattle when you tip it upside down? Do tell............ :cool2: Failing that, you could photograph the markings and restore it as per original.

Lewes used to be manned by Dick and Ray. Sadly Ray had to give up working before the place was burnt down as he was diagnosed with the scourge of mankind..... cancer. It more than likely was Dick that did your brakes. I've used them for years and still do most days now. Hope they can sort you out. :thumbsup:

You can take an air supply off of the main air tanks without creating the risk of losing air in the event of a major leak. All you need to do is fit a circuit protection valve in the supply to your auxiliary items. There are several sizes of valve depending on the volume of air required to operate an accessory. A circuit protection valve will not allow air past it until a pre- set pressure is reached, usually about 5 bar (Approx 70 psi). Similarly, if the air pressure in the main air tanks drops below this figure, the air supply is immediately cut off. At that pressure the brakes will still work. The best people to speak to are BTR Brakes at Worthing, on 01903- 213539 and ask for Dick. (Tell him Will from United Petroleum told you to ring them) He used to be at Lewes before some little tossers set the place alight. Dick is a very knowledgeable person with many years experience of heavy goods vehicles so if you explain what you are trying to achieve he should be able to sort out a valve and any pipes or fittings you may need. Failing that, I should be able so find a suitable valve from my TTC catalogue at work.

I think you will find that the Militant brackets are a different version of what is fitted to my Albion.

Now them bu**ers are reeeealy crunchy..........:rofl:

Nah........... they ent flies boy........... they're beetles........ they'm a lot crunchier than flies they are............. chomp chomp..........got more roughage than flies.................... good fer yer bowels!!! ........................................................................................................ Got some Caterpillar (Topical joke) samidges boy..................you'll like them, they got nuts in 'em. :-D :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Bein' fik......... what would the correct pressure be for 1400 x 20 bar grip tyres as fitted to my Albion? In my restoration blog; there is a picture of the side of the cab of an HD23 showing a tyre pressure of 35 psi. I would have thought it would have been somewhat higher, more in the region of 65 to 80 psi? Are there different suggested pressures for different uses. ie road work or off road? My thanks in anticipation of your replies. :thumbsup:

Thanks for taking the trouble to suggest a supplier of restoration parts. I first used Woolies back in the eighties when I restored a Daimler 420. Lovely people to deal with in those days. Regular customers were treated like friends. All transactions were done by phone. Sadly everything is becoming more impersonal now as most deals are done via the internet. Cest la vie...... As for the parts you can look out for........... all I desperately want to find is an Edbro, three way tipping body lurking as new in a dry shed for about five hundred quid.............. thats all. :-D

Many thanks for your reply. I also noticed the cargo versions had these brackets. What misled me was the fact that the chassis number was very close to my complete truck, and I thought the donor truck was a tipper as it is fitted with a hydraulic pto pump. Your suggestion seems very logical. I believe some of the tippers were conventional rear discharge only; in which case I suppose it's possible that the conventional body could have been dual purpose like the Bedford one mentioned. Unless someone comes up with a better idea; I'll go with that one for now. Many thanks, Will. :thumbsup:

The spade brackets are obvious even to someone with as little knowledge as myself. The brackets that I mean are the ones protruding about half way up the cab and sticking out of the sides. The bottom bracket looks like a step. The bottom bracket has an oblong socket in it which something probably quite heavy slots into. The socket is about six inches long in line with the vehicle about an inch and a half wide and about two inches deep. The bracket just under the guttering has a hinged clamp (Like a hasp and staple for a padlock) located with a pin which supports whatever fits in the lower socket. The lower socket is made so that whatever fits into it can be located easily at an angle of about forty five degrees, before it is pushed upright and locked into place. I still think it is for a support frame for camouflage netting or something similar as it has brackets on both sides of the cab. :???

We had similar problems starting a Leyland Freighter. A new lift pump improved the problem, and eventually I fitted a non return valve to the supply fuel line. There is virtually no resistance in these valves so it wont restrict the flow of fuel. They are easy to fit in line with normal fuel pipe and jubilee clips. Cost is about six to eight quid and they can be found on E Bay. Our Freighters starting is now instantaneous. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10mm-Fuel-one-way-valve-petrol-diesel-non-return-carb_W0QQitemZ360133379993QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_Boat_Engines_EngineParts_SM?hash=item360133379993&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Don't know about a morale boosting spin.......... that looks more like a streak to me................ sixty years old and she's running around in her bra and knickers...... :cool2: :-D :rofl: :rofl: