Tobin

Or just sell it mate!!!! Only joking and hoping to avoid competition Mr M!!

Strictly speaking if they are fully flat it may need re charging. Mine came from Ludgershall and had been wet standing for two years. Once bump started with an ARV it fired even with flat batteries and took half an hour or so to re charge everything including the hydraulics but it did so itself and I never had any more problems. Mine peed hydraulic fluid for the first few weeks that I owned it and I was sure that the seals had all gone. t got so bad that I was pouring fluid in at the top twice a week and catching it in a bucket where it came out. After about fifty miles on the road the leaking stopped overnight as the seals started working again and it used almost no hydraulic oil from then onwards. Batteries were replaced, all levels checked, oils changed (not cheap) and tyres inflated to size (rather than pressure as covered earlier). The brakes were good but I had some oil seepage onto two of the shoes and I ended up having to strip, clean and re assemble but after that the brakes were reliable and effective. It used to lose a little water for the first few months but after tightening the hoses that stopped. My most difficult experience was changing the wheel station. It used to "thump" from time to time and I jacked up the front nearside and was spinning the wheel trying to replicate the thump when I thought "hang on, this wheel should not be turning at all" and that was when I realised the tracta joint had gone. I had some ex army help and I had to find a new wheel station (NOS in a nice packing case) and it was fiddly and heavy but they were designed to be replaced and it all went smoothly. Never had any more wheel troubles. False neutrals were occasional but I found that pumping the pedal (15 times I think) in each gear before starting made no real difference. Using the vehicle regularly made it a pretty rare occurance and I got adept at not fighting it with my leg but swivelling in the seat (I am too tall) and locking my leg down with a mighty heave which reset it. It was less hard work to do than steering the old thing round a car park. That steering was heavy! Like lots of MV's you just learn to drive more slowly but with bags more anticipation and forethought for the road conditions. It was very rewarding. Feel free to bell me if you want any more info. 07966 154585. Tobin

BUY ONE! My first MV was a MK6. Taught me a lot. Don't get spooked by false neutrals, wheel stations, transmission wind up etc. A jeep is easier but a Saracen turns those heads and is very do able. I had a trashed tractor joint and managed to change a wheel station, worked it right over and brought it up to really good nick. One downside is fuel consumption but if you want green buy an electric car!! They are great fun, very interesting, practical for jouneys up to 50 miles, British and relatively cheap. I still regret selling mine, it seemed such a good idea at the time! Tobin

Thanks Gents, Much appreciated. Tobin

I am very lucky to have a stable of all WWII vehicles but the Land Rovers are as welcome to me as the other vehicles on site. Its about Military Vehicles, rare and less rare, they are all MV's and they are all interesting!

Likewise, I am at Buckingham, you are welcome any time. Best regards Tobin

Hi, I am rebuilding a Matilda and am working on the Instrument panel. The electrical switches have a sliding cover and above them a brass label which is held in place with what I would describe as 1/16" dia fluted brass pins. They look like a rivet but have a spiral flute down the pin and they are hammered into a blind hole to hold the label in place. Does anyone know what they are called or where I may find replacements? Thanks Tobin

Hi Guys, Can you help with my C8/AT no 1961FWD7750. I would ove to now a manufacture date and likely hood number? Best regards Tobin Jones

Likewise, Leckhampstead!

I remember years ago finding unopened bundles of "window" in the ditch under the hedge at RAF Enstone! T

Didn't they make aircraft recovery tracks as well? T

This was in Dunkirk in 2010. The old Morris moved her but it took a kinetic rope to start her. Proper recovery truck the CDSW!

John, Try the Cardus School, Middleton Cheney, Banbury Oxon, They have a cart in the grounds with what may be four Valentine small wheels. Hope this helps. Tobin

1941, buckingham high street, Vehicle probably 2nd Northants Yeomanry driven from Brackley (A mate of mine may be the driver!!) Tobin

Can anyone help with manuals or advice on the Ordnance 17 Pounder AT please. I am looking for manuals and a telecopic sight. T

Shout if you need parts, help or advice with the stag. I am just finishing my first nut and bolt rebuild. Best regards T Jones

I bought a Saraen Mk6 from the army which had been standing for some time. I spent about five weeks pumping steering oil in and watching it pour out of the bottom, it got to the stage where I considered putting a bucket under there and re using it. I drove it maybe ten times over that period for average journeys of 10 miles and at the end of that time it just stopped leaking. I was prepping to replace all the seals but with hindsight it was just dry seals, use it before you change anything, it will probably fix itself as the seals expand. T

One trick I learned with my MK6 is don't pump the tyres up to a pressure, pump them to a size. Run a tape measure around them and inflate them all to the same size. It reduces wind up. T

Lovely work. I am doing a Staghound and this is an inspiration. I know how hard the work is.. Best regards Tobin

Many thanks. I was hoping to find some origionals only as the rest of the vehicle has all the "right" parts. I have made the "snail" but it is a pig to use (I think it needs to be cast Steel) and I have been using a block of wood and a jack on the tracks which was a trick given to me by a chap who served in 2nd Northants Yeomanry in Normandy and the Rhine crossings. It works well but is a bit nerve wracking as everything creaks until the pressure is let off. Tobin.

Does anyone know where I can obtain a track tensioner (the one that slips onto the rod by the front wheel and moves the bogey wheel) and a track clamp(?) (the tool that is used to pull the two halves of a broken track together) from? Thanks in advance - Tobin