fv1609

Just been out in the Wolf & found the +ve pin. Of the other two, one is earthed for the screen (makes a difference as some of the inverters emit RF interference) & the other is the -ve for the inverter itself. In my situation both of these are joined together, but can't tell you which is which although often earth is opposite the keyway.

Sorry you've got conflicting info there. The lights I am using are the same as Andy is using, so he may well be correct. I've got 4 wired up in the Wolf so tomorrow I'll go & put a meter on them & see what is what.

Meant to say the plug one end & socket the other is so that a series of these can be strung together with one feeding the next. It is just a straight through feed. When you get the correct plug make sure (for safety reasons) that the live connector on your lead terminates at the connector with the female fittings.

I've just consulted EMER WORKSHOPS F100 Chapter 105 which gives the conventions relating 3-pin 24v connections.

It appears that the pin opposite the keyway is +ve Pin B

Pin A -ve

Pin C earth

Just watch out with plugs because they have bigger pin spacing on the 250v ones.

I can't remember the polarity on your plug at moment but I think positive & negative supplies float above earth. It is only the screening on the cable (for interference suppression) that is earthed.

I've got the set but only in FAESP this is 101

Yes Richard it was a requirement a bit ahead of it's time as high power silicon diodes weren't around then. I wonder whether the requirement was somehow fulfilled in SA?

Even when certain Rovers were converted to alternators they used a selenium rectifiers, which seemed not to have been cooled enough hence the later improved cooling as in "toasties".

Monty sorry forgot about the rest of it!

...an emergency.

War Office publications of any era on any subject other than guns & uniforms.

Indicators and 4ways on the lightweight come on but stay on, ie no flash.

Dave I don't whether it was all working then suddenly didn't work or whether you are doing a restoration & hitting problems.

The traditional flasher relies on the heating of a hot wire or a bi-metallic strip due to the current drawn through it. This is determined by the load the bulbs present. If they are not drawing enough current there is not enough heat & it will stay on for one pair of bulbs.

So it is important that the rated bulb voltage & wattage is fitted. If that is ok & you say you have checked the earth, I would be tempted to verify what that the earth points are really as sound as you want. I appreciate there must be some sort of earth as the bulbs would light up.A multimeter or buzzer can show that you seem to have a satisfactory earth but if you have a poor earth return of a few ohms it will seem ok with the meter & reduce the bulb brightness just a little but may just be below the threshold to make the flasher switch heat up.

I would take a lead from the earth side of your front & rear bulbs that come on & connect them directly to the negative terminal of the battery. If it then works properly disconnect one of the leads & whichever re-establishes the fault has the defective earth.

With Rovers it is so easy for corrosion to set in with steel & bits of alloy riveted together for earths to go high resistance.

if only a few shows in june all crammed into july aug

Depends where you are. June is full for me & I miss some I would like to attend. Yet apart from W&PR in July & early August is bit thin for me.

If you want to get it going I have all the circuit diagrams & PCB layouts. Its covered in:

EMER TELECOMMUNICATIONS B460-B469 Infra-Red Vehicle Mounted Detector

I have actually got the head mounted version but never tried it out.

I'll tell you at the Purbeck Rally :-X

Page 10 in this:

http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/Tabby03.pdf

IR sensor to find out if someone is looking at you with active IR vision

Steve you can get it done free by making a Freedom of Information request

Bob have you got a picture?

Jak I've done it & passed it on to Lee, who'll put it up with the other Rover CES when he gets a chance. If you are bursting with curiosity PM me your email & I'll forward it.

So you need to look for Army Code No.31750

I see I do have a 1986 edition of this. I'll try & find it then post it up on the forum with the other Rover CES.

Jak I can't find 2320998937004 although 2320998937003 is listed which is pretty close.

So you need to look for Army Code No.31750

Hi,

 

I was just wondering what items would be in the CES of a Land Rover 110 FFR?

 

Thanks Jak

Jak I started to say in theory you need to look out for AESP 2320-D-122-741 but curiously that was never published. The CES was still published in Army Coded publications.

But there were 5 CES for FFR TUMs so I need to know your vehicle's Asset Code or NSN to tell you the correct one.

Richard they are pretty confused already

I just HAD to buy this

If you use Gmail & are now getting pestered by Google who seem to have by default put you up for meeting strangers and you don't want to do this. Then this will help:

http://blogs.wsj.com/digits/2014/01/10/how-to-opt-out-strangers-in-google-plus-gmail-inbox/

If like twitting & facing maybe that extra circle of Google+ contacts will be just fine, but count me OUT. :argh:

Is the digout happening at Dallas Autoparts tomorrow morning?

I hope so I've just loaded up the Land Rover with stuff.

Although there is rain forecast for tomorrow it looks as it will be in the afternoon, so we should be alright