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Posts posted by fv1609

  1. It's hard to know the life span of these forms.

    I have a list of Army Forms up to date as in AO at Oct 1916. The highest is W 3492, new forms must have been prolifically produced as there are blank spaces to record their details up to W 3575.

    Turning to a similar list up to date to AO Dec 1943, this particular form is not listed although it extends to W 5284.

    It is a shame that the scanned example of the AF omits to include the printer's imprint which would indicate the date of delivery & the quantity printed


  2. I was just wondering if the filter you removed was blind at the end which would indicate it was intended for use in early engines that were not fitted with a bypass valve in the filter mount. So I wonder if your mount is early & does not have the bypass that would operate if the filter becomes clogged, in which case those bits you are looking for would not have been used. 

    Or maybe you do have the later mount & if the element is blind on the lower end, someone has fitted the wrong filter & discarded the bits you are now seeking?

  3. Yes the bodywork would have been NATO Green, but the Spec paint thickness acknowledges the layer is probably too thin for effective IRR performance. So that would require an additional layer applied at unit level, it is conceivable that a nitwit could have not understood the purpose of the overpainting & just painted wherever his brush could be made to reach :  (

  4. You didn't give the age of your LtWt, but the majority would have been manufactured before the development & availability of IRR NATO Green.

    Late Series 3 would have been to DGFVE Spec 341 which gives no indication that the fuel tanks should any other colour than that supplied by Rover. NATO Green was required just for the bodywork.

    Besides NATO Green was more expensive than normal paint so it would not make sense to use it in areas out of normal sight and  tactically it would have been pointless.

    I suspect that the NATO Green on the tanks was the work of a bored or overenthusiastic squadie or previous owner.

  5. One way is trawling through manuals from the early 1960s for the specific equipment installations & hoping to spot if the item of interest is included, hoping that the VAOS reference is included with a NSN.

    I say the early 1960s because that was the changeover period for the cataloguing system. Although NATO agreed to adopt the US Federal Cataloguing System in 1956, the UK did not ratify the agreement until 1961 & it did not officially come into operation until 1st April 1966.

    However in the lead up period many items were repackaged bearing a NSN, although inner packaging might still bear the VAOS item reference & many parts lists had supplements of amendments that included the new NSNs.

    So you would need to look out for a Vocabulary of Army Ordnance Stores (VAOS) Section ZA & ZB  from the 1962-66 era. VAOS were often published annually. When most of the items  had been NATO codified, VAOS morphed into COSA (Catalogue of Ordnance Stores & Ammunition) which retained the same Section identities, although these evolved with time as they did with VAOS.

    The VAOS/COSA Section identifiers persist as the DMC (Domestic Management Code) preceding the NSN.

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  6. It is listed as a "lubrication screw". I never found any instructions about filling it in any Servicing Schedule or EMER that relates to the generator.

    Given that the channel leads to the front bearing that is bounded by "oil seals" each side, I assume oil is the lubricant.

    I once saw what often is called a grease nipple fitted here, this usually invites the injection of grease, but like in the Humber 1 Ton Tracta joints these are lubrication nipples & can sometimes be for oil not grease.

  7. It's a CAV Cut-out Type DR the most common one was DR1-12 used in Control Board type 75BT-19X used in many vehicles including MW (not MWR), OX, OY,  OW, QL, Austins 2 & 3 ton, Wot 1.A1, 6, 8, 2H, Dennis cesspool emptier to name just a few.

    NSN 2920-99-818-1984

  8. It would depend on the mark, the originality that includes all the fittings & internal lining & all the automotive requirements being spot with a good chassis I think it would be in the order of £25k-35K. But I don't you'll easily find one that ticks all the boxes.

  9. 9 hours ago, fv1609 said:

    I only have Part 1, I'll look tomorrow in the meantime someone may come up with the figures from Part 2.

    This gives two sets of figures for Field Standard

    Field Minimum Standard

    Tapley 44%

    30mph stopping distance 68ft

    Field Repair Standard

    Tapley 54%

    30mph stopping distance 55ft

  10. The Ferret (Mk 1-5) stopping distances should be in the Inspection Standards EMER WHEELED VEHICLES V 628  Part 2 Base Inspection Standard - Road testing. This should give the distance for various speeds & a Tapley value.

    Part 1 is the Field Inspection Standard which should give a Tapley value but not likely to give more than one stopping distance.

    I only have Part 1, I'll look tomorrow in the meantime someone may come up with the figures from Part 2.


  11. I can see no reason to buy a new the coil. I have fitted two of these kits to Humbers without issues. At the time there was an encouragement to use a new coil but I couldn't see the point.

    The purpose for me to fit electronic ignition was to improve reliability & performance by doing away with the points improving reliability & having a reliable co-ordination of the switching. The abrupt opening of the primary circuit electronically provides a higher HT output than if there is some deterioration in the condenser or points that are pitted or have an unsatisfactory gap.

    The search for greater HT output seems unnecessary if the module is working as above. Greater HT can be a two-edged sword as it increases the chance of insulation breakdown with a system running at a higher voltage than it was designed for. You only have to measure the insulation of a rotor arm stored in a damp environment with the insulation measured when it has been left out in the Sun for a day when it has dried out, to see the vulnerability of components to leakage just with dampness.

    Old ignition leads by now run the risk of breaking down with increased HT & once a spark has found a path established what were previously safe voltages may no longer pass without failure.

    Some years ago I remember being in correspondence with someone faced with the new coil dilemma & the advice he had received but ISTR there was some fallacy I felt in the case put forward. I'll see if I can find that correspondence.

    PS ISTR the advice accompanying suggestion of new coil that carries a higher primary current (because the electronic switching can handle this, which was previously limited by the maximum current the points can switch) is that a higher HT can be provided. With this increased voltage the advice was to increase the gap on the sparking plugs.

    If you have RSN13P plugs do NOT try to adjust the gap as you run the risk of snapping the side electrode or worse still weakening it so that it breaks off inside the engine.

  12. 2 hours ago, Manylandrovers said:

    While in the subject of electrics I see on eBay people selling Ferret Ammeters, but none of the diagrams I have show them. Were they fitted to later mks perhaps? 

    Saladin had a separate illuminated ammeter panel

  13. Andrew the speed limiter operates when the engine speed exceeds 4750 rpm

    It seems to work via a delay circuit triggering a thyristor connected across the coil primary.

    I can't see that black needs to be connected to anything for the chopper module to function in its normal manner.

    I have a diagram if you want.



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