fv1609

Here you go Ted, the only other pics are of the installation kit by itself.

Yes the clever thing about WCP is that they are so versatile that one or more can convert a GS truck or trailer into a water bowser, without having to have single purpose vehicles & trailers that can fulfil no other role.

The tap plug is nylon coated & the sealing rings are of nitrile rubber. The maintennance instruction requires no lubricant just to "Regularly examine equipment and accessories and report any damage." Although the WCP was intended to be used in a 3/4 ton trailer, it was also intended to be fitted into a 3/4 ton Rover.

I think you would be doing quite a bit of flushing through before drinking anything from it. But there are non-toxic & non-tasting lubricants available for use with machinery in the food industry.

WCP is covered in EMER ENGINEERING & MISCELLANEOUS D 410 Data Summary. Apr.1973 D 412 Technical Description, Unit, Field & Base Repairs. Jul.1987 D 417 Mod to fit all ¾ ton cargo trailers. Mod.Instr.No.1. Apr.1975 Unforunately repairs only cover the tank which is to be repaired according to EMER WORKSHOPS O 370. "Components other than the polythene tank are to be repaired by replacement" Although there is a list of components none of them are VAOS or NATO codified it just lists MEXE Drawing Numbers. The UHB AC No.60377 Part 2 gives no help for your probem. The EMER states it should always be stored with the outlet valve open. All I can suggest is saturation with release oil then a gentle tap one way & then the other to gradually build up a bit of movement. Perhaps first a gentle application of hair dryer hot air.

8 REAB is the DMC (Domestic Management Code) for Aveling Barford spares for their cranes, excavators, tractors.

Post-war RAOC glossaries give one of several meanings of PR as PRESERVATION

Kevin sorry not any longer just a few bits that have surfaced from odd boxes. You need: Speedometer cable assembly 4ft, LV6/MT1/SM/Y76300/48, FV157945/22, 6680-99-816-7033 Not to be confused with tacho cable 4ft 2in Speedo cable has end which is round & one spline, tacho cable end is square. I do have the slow running control cable & speed adjusting knob with the centre press & rotate to finely adjust revs. But you might free it up with release oil. Press centre of button to allow rapid pull of knob. Release button & rotate knob for fine control of speed. .

7DP = DROPS 15 = Italy

Kevin as far as shows go this is my calendar so far. 30 April Caldicot Castle 20-21 May Builth Wells 27-29 May Denmead Portsmouth 18-18 June Evesham 30 June- July Capel 4-5 Aug South Cerney Glos 25-27 Aug Tanks & Trucks Coventryish

The brush I was referring to was having the measurements, not the items themselves I'm afraid. Design length 0.875" Acceptable on rebuild 0.65" Minimum 0.50" There is a contradiction between the EMER & ISPL as to which is made by CAV & which by Simms. Assuming yours is the Simms the above measurements apply & spare brushes are LV6/MT4/SS/L71960 VAOS parts are easy to translate compared to a COSA that is NSN codified. The Simms part no. is L71960 A fudge that I have used is when the brushes have got too worn. Just choose a similar or larger sized brush from a domestic appliance repair shop or autojumble stall, then file it to shape. Put on some disposable gloves as this will get very messy, place some medium/fine sandpaper on a flat surface then rub the new brush back & forth to get the dimension you need to place in front of what remains of your old brush. Bear in mind that the end of the old brush will have worn concavely as it rubs on the commutator. So file this flat to maximise contact with your new brush addition. Load you new brush addition & then the original brush & spring mechanism on top of that. Not good engineering I know but it has worked very well for me many times. If you do remove your generator I would be very interested to see the maker's plate to confirm it is Simms & a Mk 2/1 so I can see whether error is in the EMER or ISPL. The aluminium plate on mine was badly corroded & was illegible.

Kevin looking through the various CES for 1962, 1969, 1969 amended NI, 1974. The oil can is Tin, oil 1 qt LV6/MT1/22870 I have 2 of these in good condition. Screw jack, 4 Ton (I have a refurbished one. These have a broad base & less likely to topple like a bottle jack & besides it cannot suddenly unscrew itself) As for the machete none of those CES mention one, yet fittings for these were provided going back to the FV1609 which was troop trialled in Malaya where there would have been a need. It looks as if it was dropped at an early stage. However, the type that may have been used originally is in the CES for Hornet FV1620 as: Matchet 15" blade 5110-99-003-8127 Sheath 5140-99-003-7818 Don't understand about "bushes" I wouldn't worry at the moment about the side lockers very few people spot the diiference. BTW check your tyre pressures as with run flats it can be difficut to tell by just looking. On a Mk 1 Front 25psi, Rear 40 psi. If the front is incorrect the steering will be peculiar. I have no 12A Gen Panels, but yours may be ok. People have used the 25A panel directly. I ave two of these boxed. Too much of a fiddle & effort sending stuff, but I will be at various MV shows throughout the summer for collection. I have a few odd Humber bits including servos.

Kevin the side door lock is ingenious but not original, the frame would be for engine oil can (I have two original cans available) (BTW the side locker is not original), as for the machete it doesn't look right but I will check on the CES for the exact type. Your passenger seat canvases look a bit weathered, I'm not sure if I mentioned but I have NOS for both.

Just before you do the motor test. You've established the field winding C-E is ok. Put the ohmmeter across the armature A-B no official figure is given but might be something like 50-100 ohms that may vary a bit as you rotate the pulley. If there is no reading or very erratic then suspect your brushes, I have correct length required somewhere. When I've tested dynamos I've joined A to C and B to E via say a 10A fuse connect -ve to B and +ve to A. Yes I would expect 12v would be ok. It should rotate clockwise when viewed from the drive end. Using that polarity retains the residual magnetism in the dynamo for normal operation.

These might help. The field winding resistance should be about 15 ohms.

Kevin that looks like a Gen No.1 Mk 2/1 made by Simms, the more common one was Gen No.1 Mk 2 made by CAV that looks slightly different. Sorry to have worried you about oil, but you did say you had a two speed generator. I just assumed it had been upgraded to 25A. Often the FV1611 is mistaken for a FFW but all Pigs have three antenna bases, so it could have had wireless sets! If there is a fourth antenna base on the OS rear it is a FV1612 FFW that has been upgraded to FFR. You can test your generator without removing it. If you slacken the fan belts & energise the windings (via fuse just in case) & it will run like a motor. The real pain are the various types of Generator Panel, can be troublesome & difficut to obtain. Although some people have fitted the 2-speed generator panel successfully.

I think you will find that you have a Generator No.1 which is single speed (no oil feed) rated at 12A output. Easier to cope with but very rare to find.

Sounds as if you've done the right thing Kevin. My last Pig was registered as a Minibus which I didn't like after a bit of negotiating got it changed to Box Van.

Good news Kevin that it went through swiftly. When I've been the first to register a vehicle I had to have it inspected, but back then they had inspectors, don't suppose they have those now & rely on authorised clubs. I remember when the Hornet was inspected, he wasn't at all interested in the missiles on the back. His only concern was to check the chassis plate to ensure that it hadn't been stolen. What is it registered as? Box van, rigid body or minibus?

Kevin of the 2-speed generators ie Generator No.2 there were only two Mks, the main difference being the screw threads. Mk 1 by BTH with BSF threads Mk 2 by CAV with UNF threads I would first make very certain that is not a problem in the Gen Panel. I remember once I had a dozen panels that I tested & I think only three gave an output that was within the correct voltage range. The most difficult thing with fitting the generator was not just guiding this heavy thing in place (I used a sling around my neck to take the main weight) onto the locating spigot but getting it to line up with the oil outlet pipe going into the sump & getting the collar thread to engage. I had to use a sawn off Whitworth spanner for this. The last time I changed a generator it took over a week of intermittent work especially to get the thing in place properly. The time before that I did it over the course of a weekend show. But the time before that I drove it home, changed the generator over in 3 hours then drove it back to the show. Amazing what you can do when you are younger. When you handle a 2-speed generator you will not be able to spin it as you are fighting against the engaged gear box. If you can spin it then the gearbox is bust although it may still charge but not at low revs. If you get stuck for a Gen Panel I have a couple still in their boxes. That is not why I suggested that but they are more likely to fail than the generator!

Kevin glad you have the UHB. You should be able to hear the change in dynamo tone in the cab as you take it through the 1000rpm ish barrier. Sometimes people wonder about priming it what happens to the extra oil? I think a B60 was reckoned to burn a pint of oil every 100 miles, so it sort of balances out.

Kevin not sure if you have a copy of the UHB, but it is an invaluable guide to daily running. https://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/humber-1-ton-4x4-armoured-pig-user-handbook-1266-p.asp If the gearbox is working you should hear a change in whine around 1000rpm as you go up & dip down on the accelerator. This will be matched with a slight shift in voltage. I would suggest using an analogue (moving coil) voltmeter for this so that you can see a trend in voltage rather than a digital voltmeter that will jump around incessantly so your brain has to keep working out whether the voltage is going up or down. I much prefer what I call a proper multimeter like an Avo 12 specifically intended for vehicular use esp 24v systems. If the gearbox has failed it will be unlikely to jam. But you will not get any useful output below 1000rpm & there will be no change in whine as there will be no speed change. As for Morse code although it is still widely used by amateurs around the world, there is an increasing use of computer generated systems where you use a keyboard & a computer generates the Morse to be turned into text by a computer the other end. No skill is required by either operator other than to type fast. To me this is a hollow achievement, a bit like taking part in a bicycle race but turning up on a motorbike & thinking you are a skilled cyclist by winning the race.

Kevin, Humber I Ton (armoured & non-armoured) have a 12A dynamo. FFW (armoured & non-armoured) have a 25A dynamo. The problem with dynamos is that below 1200 rpm-ish the output is very low. The 25A dynamo has a gearbox that comes into play at about that speed to increase the rpm of the dynamo itself. So that you can get a useful output even with the engine ticking over at 200rpm. These two-speed dynamos are force fed oil from the engine, but the gearbox will not get lubricated until the engine is running, so if not run for 3 weeks the dynamo gearbox needs to be primed with 1/4 pint of engine oil. Placed in the oil filler hole protected by a brass boss, do not pour oil into the meshed hole which is the air breather hole! The noise from the gearbox may be noisy at start up until the engine is pumping in oil. There will a change in note with a sort of whine as the gearbox clicks in at 1200 rpm. Often this oil top up is ignored either by ignorance or arrogance that it will still work as it is robust so just ignore that requirement. I have seen a few dynamo gearboxes that have failed, it will still charge but not on low revs. The EMER describes how to repair the gearbox which looks a nightmare with special tools etc better to treat it with respect out the outset. You really need the User Handbook WO Code No.12246 it is very good at explaining everything. When it was written drivers were trained to have an understanding of automotive skills & expected to do minor servicing, maintenance, fault finding etc. unlike today's handbooks that are very basic describing where the steering wheel is & how to adjust the seat belts : ( Check that your Generator Panel is complete. Unscrew the large cover at the top & out should pop a smaller cover, which should aways be carried in there. These two caps screw into the air input & output on the dynamo when wading. The trouble is that the dynamo will get very hot so the dynamo is switched to 5A output & the charge warning light will come on. This is because in normal use the cap within the cap stored at the gen panel top presses down on two microswitches that allow normal charging. So if either cap is missing or the bigger cap is not screwed down fully, it will only charge at 5A. (Radio? Yes, another hobby I have been a licensed radio amateur since 1964. I'm not much interested in talking round the world, if I do communicate with other countries I only use Morse code. My main interest is in the microwave bands, the highest band I operate on is 24GHz (wavelength of 1.2cm) Most of my daily activity is on 10GHz (3cm) using rain & snow scatter, aircraft scatter & tropospheric scatter. The heavy rain today has been particularly favourable, it all helps to get my signals from out of my valley where you can't even get a mobile phone signal)