jim fl4

The Leyland

Wow, That is quite possibly the most beautiful fire engine I have ever seen. Thank you for posting

Hi Jim,

Sincere apologies, but on looking for the Ferret parts, I then remembered that I had sold the parts last year, only tracta joints left.

 

regards, Richard

No Worries Richard, thanks for looking. I will ask Richard B.

Cheers

Jim

Hi Jim,

Not sure about Sun gear but I have some small planet gears knocking around.

David

Hi David, thanks for your reply. Same here, I even have a spare wheel station, removed the hub cap only to see the sun gear missing! Thanks again.

Hi Jim,

Not sure, but might have one sun gear and the bearing carrier, but will not be able to check until Monday or Tuesday.

 

cheers Richard

Hi Richard, that would be great if you get the time. No rush, I hope the sun gear and its planet gears do not need to be matched? I think because the gear has been removed for many years their has been no oil being thrown around and concequently the bearing carrier and its bearing have rusted. Thanks again, Jim.

Hi, The ferret I am restoring has had both rear sun gears removed in the past. I am needing a pair and preferably one of the 'starfish' shaped bearing carriers. Any help much appreciated. Jim.

Any more details?

 

a) what sort of timeline does the farmer have for wanting it removed

 

b) is it the "standard" size Robin Hangar (by the looks of the external photos it probably is - 60 ft across)?

Hi, Does anyone happen to know the pitch of the roof of the standard Robin Hanger?, is it 22 degrees?

Cheers, Jim.

I think we are assuming it is a I.H. BTD6 based B100 Drott; in which case they are heavier than 4ton. It could be a Bristol I think they were smaller and lighter.

Hi Rustexpert, Its neither of your assumptions. It is a little fiat crawler the FL4 model. Only about 5 foot wide and 11 foot long. Here's a pic of mine.

I always thought they weighed nearer 7 ton, is it a small one?

No, definitely 4 ton, its just a small 1960's tracked loader, The spares probably add another ton max.

cheers.

Hi All, I have a 4 ton Drott plus a few spares needing transporting from Coniston, Lake District to Harrogate, N. Yorks.

Strictly speaking its not green...yet but thought to put it on here incase anybody might be able to help. Its starts and drives, but only on one side so a winch would be a big help.

Not in any great rush.

Thanks

Jim.

Try Champ spares - that's where I got one for my Ferret.

 

Diana

Thanks Diana, I will give it a day or two then try them.

Hi, I am needing the bracket which attaches to the engine block and holds the 2 speed generator in place. Ok for the genny, just the bracket. Thought I would ask on here first.

Thanks

Jim

I cannot stress the importance of synchronisation of the points; it can only really be done with the dizzy out. You will need a protractor mounted on the shaft and a pointer.

 

I use a normal plastic half round protractor with a hole drilled in the centre. You then take out the screw that holds the cam to the shaft and use a slightly longer screw to fix the protractor to the top of the cam, one off the dizzy cap is just the right length. Make a pointer from a bit of welding wire ground to a point and fix it to the side of the dizzy enabling you to read the protractor.

 

The procedure I normally use is:

 

 

• Take the dizzy out and mount it in a vice.

• Clean, dress & gap both sets of points (try to get the points gapped as equal as possible)

• Mount the plastic protractor on the spindle & fix the pointer as above

• Rotate the shaft in the correct direction (clockwise) until the first set of points just open. (use a multimeter or battery & bulb)

• Zero the protractor & pointer

• Continue to rotate the shaft until the second set of points just open

• The protractor should be reading exactly 45 degrees for a 8 cylinder engine and 60 degrees for a six cylinder engine

• If not, adjust the sliding set of points in the right direction until you get exactly 45 or 60 degrees between the opening of the two sets of points.

• Finally seal the set screws securing the sliding points with paint.

• Re-fit dizzy and adjust timing to between 1 to 2 degrees ATDC

 

One point to remember, there are two types of points fitted, one with a wide shoe that runs on the cam and one with a narrow shoe. Either will work but you cannot mix a narrow shoe with a wide shoe as there is not enough adjustment in the sliding points to achieve the 45 or 60 degrees between firing. If you are stuck you can file a wide shoe down with a needle file.

 

If you want to do a quick check with the dizzy still on the engine you can do the following to see if the point’s synchronisation is even close (six cylinder only)

 

 

• Clean both sets of points and ensure both are gapped equal and correct.

• Turn the engine with the plugs out until the fixed set of points are just opening on number one firing stroke

• Note the timing mark on the flywheel

• Turn the engine through one complete revolution until the sliding set of points are just opening number 6 firing.

• The timing mark should now be in exactly the same position as with number one firing; if not the point synchronisation needs to be adjusted as above.

 

Hope the above helps but it isn’t a five minute job, and if checking with the dizzy still on the engine it’s a two man job, which is why I usually find it quicker to take the dizzy out.

Super Post, one to keep if you have a B series engine!

Thanks Grumpy.

Hi All, Upon checking the syncro of the twin points found them to be slightly out so after careful resetting as per 'Grumpy's' excellent tutorial, quess what....Yep she started up great No rad on at the moment so only ran a few seconds. The rocker cover was still off and whilst oil filled the cups of the push rods no oil emanated from the rocker shaft, should I be worried anyone?

Thanks to everyone for your comments, everyone has helped .

I will bump the thread I used for the syncro incase might help any other readers.

Cheers

Jim

Thanks again to Clive and also Richard for their valued advice. I have noted the dissy cap firing flat for number 1 piston, (rotor arm at roughly 5 oclock) which ties with No1 piston at TDC with both valves closed, I assume this is the correct stroke? Of course, there is still the chance it maybe the carb. or something else being the problem but I'm most down on the ignition and the cobbled together dissy and leads but I do get a good spark from all leads. Glad I'm not having to fix it for Monday!!

Just another question to Richard, is the refitting of the oil pump, ie, the correcct meshing of the pump gear to the cam gear as in the RR manual vital? I have not meddled with the timing gears...thankfully .

Cheers

Jim

Jim you say you have a Mk 2 (Lucas) but that doesn't have a felt pad that is only on the Mk 2/1 (Delco-Remy)

 

I think are right to get it going as best you can as nature intended. I would feel uneasy introducing something new into the system in the hope of making everything alright. Change it once it is sort of running then you will have the satisfaction of seeing the improvement. I favour doing things one stage at a time, just suppose there was some issue with the module then you have two issues to sort out & one complicates the diagnosis of the other.

 

What are you working from an EMER WHEELED VEHICLES or an EMER POWER? The detail varies between them.

Arhh, that would be why there's no lube pad then , Yes they are all the common Lucas screened Dissies off ferrets. Up to now I have been working of the RR TSD 702 manual but, latterly been pointed in the direction of the Unit repair 403 (the Australian manual). It gives a different account of certain things...as compared to TSD 702, with regard to timing, synchronisation etc. Going back to the dissy at the moment and going to get it syncro'd as best I can and then hopefully refit it correctly to the engine. I think I got the oil pump back right with the dissy tab running lengthways with the engine whilst the No. 1 piston was at TDC on firing stroke....well hope so . Have you any top tips for refitting of the dissy??

Thanks Clive,

Jim.

Hi Clive, sorry for the late reply, its a No.1 mk 2. Actually I have a few dissys, (all the same type) and I'm making a good one up from them! They are all missing the felt rubbing pad though but that's no prob if I can get it going. I hear the calls about the Jolley system but I've read that first off the original system needs to be operating before going electronic, whats your thoughts? Also, found a thread by 'grumpy' about how to syncro the points using a protractor. I'm going to be doing that tomorrow I hope.

Thanks

Jim

I am sure that someone better qualified than me will be along soon but I think that a common error with B60 timing is that it is often 180 degrees out.

Thanks Topdog, I've heard this also. Thought I had followed the manual but by problems sound like its out a lot! just an odd fire from one cylinder.

Jim yes that will happen for a very short time as one pair just opens as the other is just about to close.

 

Are the points synchronised? Are there still blobs of paint on the locking screws? If not it suggests someone has been meddling & mucked it up.

Hi Clive, thanks, As I turn the spindle I can get both points to be fully open, but only for an instant before 1 begins to close. I have just noticed that the advise on synchronising the points in the emer manual is different to the TSD 702. I have until now been following the TSD one which tells to commence sycro using No. 1 at TDC while the emer says to start with No.6 piston at TDC to set the fixed points first! BTW the paint is long gone.

Cheers, Jim.

Hi All, I'm in the latter stages of rebuilding a B60 and now its all back together I'm trying to start it. Since it was missing its ancillaries I've had to source a dissy, coil, junction box, carb etc. Got a decent spark, fuel in carb but can only get an odd pop when its cranked over. I'm thinking its probably the ignition timing, read the excellent 'ignition matters' pdf. With the dissy, it looks like BOTH points are open at the same time, albeit for a short time, is this correct. any thoughts would be most welcome .

Jim

hi Jim

you have got me there! I rebuilt B61 last year with those oil rings and from memory thought there were 2. I am unable to look at my manual to confirm so hope someone else can tell you.

 

regards Richard

Hi Richard, no worries, had a think about it and decided on 1 flat ring at the bottom, then wavy one, then the 2 remaining flat rings at the top. All ends staggered and a nice fit .

Cheers

Jim

Hi Jim

the broad ring with slots fits first, then fit the two thin flat rings over it. These go top and bottom of the groove and the narrow wavy one between them. Don't forget to space out the ring gaps around the piston. Sorry I am not able to send a picture. You should have 4 items.

 

regards

Richard

Hi Richard, Thank you for the super fast reply . I actually have 5 items, 3 thin rings plus the wavy one and the slotted one. I can see the slotted one goes in first. Sounds like the wavy one gets sandwiched in the middle, but having 3 thin rings, do I put 2 at the top and 1 at the bottom or visaversa?

thanks again

Jim

Hi All, Got some Wellworthy DuaFlex sectional steel oil control rings for my B60 engine. Don't know how they fit? They consist of 3 flat very thin rings, 1 ring which is wavy and then the other ring is broad, perforated with slots.

Any help much appreciated

Jim

Thank you guys . Spoke to Dan who said they would ring me when they got some more in, interesting about the police spec one's. Thought it was worth asking here incase someone was thinking of selling their's into the trade :shocked:.

Cheers

Jim

Hi All, I'm on the look out for a deac Sterling smg. Any condition considered just pm me and I will respond. Many thanks.

Thank you Clive and Richard for your replies. Richard, with your B61 rebuild did you use the original packing for the inlet valves, (if its still available) or did you use a more modern seal?

Cheers

Jim